94 toyota 4x4 p/u w/ 3vze.
Looked around and could find nothing with a resolution to the problems im having.I have a no crank situation. I turn the key to on and only the battery instrument light comes on. I have NO OTHER instrument lights including NO CEL. The headlights and radio work right now and It sounds like the fuel pump is continually going as well when on "on" position. I have an identical truck same year make and model that I pull parts off of. Everything on the parts truck was in working order minus the head gaskets the body is too far rusted to save hence why i use it as parts truck. So far I have switched out
•fusible link (80amp fuse)
•efi relay
•starter relay
• alternator
•ECU
•starter
all grounds appear to be good.
Battery is at 12.44v
the afm was messed with but I have not switched those out yet... I did unplug and tried the key again but it only eliminated the sound of the fuel pump.
I am out of ideas and expertise...would you please be so kind to help me get this thing going again!??
I am limited on using a multi meter but do have one. So i need good instruction if use of it will be required....
I just did v.c. gaskets timing belt water pump all idlers cam seals and crank seal...yeah p.o. abused neglected it a little. HELP ME GET THIS THING RUNNING!!!

 

ignition cylinder? 15amp efi fuse good? 30amp am2 fuse good? the 40amp am1 appears to be working, but one of the other 2 don't seem to be powered. you can test for power at the exposed metal on the top of the efi fuse. it should read battery power on both sides of the fuse at all times.

 

I will check into thise, I came across some 8 n formation leading me to the ignition switch...JUST finished pulling it out of the pickup and need to repeat the procedure on the parts truck for the ol swap!
hope it clears up my problem...
I will report back on progress and research your suggestions tonight. Thank you!!!

 

Well switching ignition switches did nothing.. DAMNIT..
akheathen the am1 and am2 appear to still be intact...is there a way i can verify that? Just gripund to the battery post and touch multimeter positive to top under plastic lid?They were all replaced including the fusible link...I'm not too electrically inclined but I'm ready and willing to learn

 

All fuses in engine fuse box minus hl (l) and hl (r) shows power on bother sides...12.36v am 1 am 2 and 80amp...any other suggestions?

 

I'd have that battery tested at a parts store so your aware of it's CCA reading. Sounds like weak battery is all.

 

I can only HOPE that that's it...I would have to wait till tommorow to do that but if I switch out batteries with my 4runner (same motor 3.0) and it turns over my 4 runner I can rule that out correct?

 

I highly doubt it's the battery...how could it be just the battery. You read my original post? I'll still go get it tested but my headlights are bright don't dim yet the only instrument lamp that comes on is the battery one...
how could I have a bad battery but strong headlights and NO C.E.L?
I can't even pull codes
This is not adding up...
thank you for all your responses and suggestions so far people!!
KEEP THEM COMING!!!

 

Not really. Particularly if the other engine isn't ice cold. A weak battery that's "on the border line" is not consistent, so it's hard to rely on behavior in another veh.

If you have a trickle charger, you can charge it overnight and then take it to any parts store for a load test. Then you'll know for sure if it's cause or not.

 

Ok. I will trickle charge tonight and have them load test it tommorow.
what about the no check engine light tho? That's what's getting me..how could I have power to headlights and stereo yet not to truck instruments or lamps?
...suggestions?

 

YES I READ IT. And here's why I said what I did:

First, CEL only indicates emissions parts malfunctions. Not low battery. Stop thinking about that cel in this case.
2. The BATTERY LIGHT IS ON. (And, Without the alt light) what do you think that is supposed to tell you?
3. 12.x volts IS enough to power your lights and radio. You do understand the LOAD of starting an engine is more than lights and a radio, right? That's what the rating of CCA is: cold, cranking amps.

So a battery test could tell you that it's got the volts but not the amps.

If you have a known good battery, try sailing that into your truck. But don't put your battery into another vehicle, and think it's OK because it starts THAT one. That would only be a guess, not a confirmation.

 

basically. the ground on the rt side of the plenum and to the inner fender right next to the battery good? you can use jumper cables to rule those out. double check the starter cables and battery connections. so, it doesn't click anymore when you try to start it? the fuses by the driver kick panel good?

 

Understood! Thank you. I'll post back with findings.

 

Wait a minute, you have jumper cables and a second battery? Hook it up! Will it jump start?

 

And, are you saying you have a dark cluster, no gauges at all?

If you are certain they should light, then I'd check the instrument fuse and make sure its socket has power with a test light too. But it's possible you have a cluster of bad, ancient bulbs, if you haven't seen them light recently, or ever? Could be 22 yr old bulbs in there?

If your only concern was lack of cel, keep in mind that on your 94, cel is emissions only. Honestly never a serious issue, which is why it's yellow not red. =)

 

could be many things, but does hint that the efi ecu is not powering up the cluster, or efi not getting powered up. the fuel pump not shutting off also indicates the afm or ignition switch problem..... or the jumper left on in the diag conn.

 

So brand new battery and....Nothing!
Tj884dlx yes dark cluster guages. Used to work but now just the battery light comes on. I doubt all the bulbs but that one went bad.
I'll check the instrument fuse and socket shortly. As for the c.e.l. I just figured it should come on if everything had power. Which it obviously doesnt...but where???
Akheathen how can I check efi ecu? And the efi? Ignition switch was replaced day before yesterday with verified working one. Would a bad afm be the cause of my problems? P.o. tampered with it but everything appears soldered and connected as it should. I can switch that out too if you think that is causing the no crank and battery light to come on. And no paperclip in the diagnostic port.
Thank you all for your help and insight!!

 

By the way I got this baby for FREE...p.o. said it had an electrical problem..I guess he wasnt joking lol.I did get it to start at one point and it ran but would not drive..it needed all sorts of stuff and now that I had done those things (1st post) this is happening. Once again thank you for your help!! 1 love this forum!

 

Ok! Making progress!! I wiggled some wires around by drivers kick panel and turned key to on AND I GOT THE BATTERY GUAGE TO FUNCTION AND INSTRUMENT LIGHTS TO COME ON!!
It was short lived and is having same problem now...now that it is isolated to there what could it be??

 

There's a thing behind the driver kick panel called the "integration relay" which is not a relay at all, but rather just a big junction block. About 80% of the circuits in the vehicle have their power supplied through it, it seems. I would start looking at connection issues there. If you pull off the plastic kick panel, you'll see the fuse block. The integration relay is on the back side of the fuse block, so you can't see it without more disassembly. I've never had to get that far, so I can't tell you how difficult that might be.