Please Help fuel pump power issues
#1
Please Help fuel pump power issues
89 toyota pick up 3.0 got in the truck this morning. Wouldn't start but would with starting fluid. Couldn't hear the fuel pump run check no pressure. Check efi fuse was good COR relay click so I figured that was efi relay ohm out. Drop tank figured pump out bench test pump seemed to work ok tried checking for 12 volts at round connector to the sending unit I don't have power. Was reading on here to test B+ 12 volt there jump it to FP still now power at round connector also AFM flapper I open an closed it an you can hear it click something click on passenger side so figured that was ok. I'm lost idk what to check any help would be appreciated !!
#2
Registered User
Just because you hear a click doesn't mean that the COR is working, it also doesn't mean that power is getting to it in the first place. all you know is that the control side is getting power and ground to pull in the relay.
I would check for power into the switched side of the EFI relay and then see if you have power out when it's energized then see if you have power to the switched side of the COR and then out of it when it is energized.
on mine the power comes from a 15 amp EFI fuse, check that.
without seeing your wiring diagram I can't help much more.
I would check for power into the switched side of the EFI relay and then see if you have power out when it's energized then see if you have power to the switched side of the COR and then out of it when it is energized.
on mine the power comes from a 15 amp EFI fuse, check that.
without seeing your wiring diagram I can't help much more.
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Garrettyota89 (12-05-2021)
#3
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Welcome to YotaTech.
If you have 12v to ground at the B+ pin of the diagnostic connector (with key-on), the EFI relay is working. Jumpering B+ to FP at the diagnostic connector bypasses the VAF-COR circuit; if the truck won't run then your problem is elsewhere. I assume that what you call the "round connector" is at the fuel pump. If you get no voltage to ground there, with the jumper in and key-on, then you have a break between the COR/diagnostic connector and the fuel pump. Try running a "jumper" from the round connector to FP. If the fuel pump runs with the jumper (key-on), you've positively identified the break.
Here's everything i know about the VAF-COR system: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-quits-312747/
I can see you are posting this from a phone. Please take the time to proof-read your posts, and get the punctuation mostly-correct. We aren't where you are; your words are all we have to help you.
If you have 12v to ground at the B+ pin of the diagnostic connector (with key-on), the EFI relay is working. Jumpering B+ to FP at the diagnostic connector bypasses the VAF-COR circuit; if the truck won't run then your problem is elsewhere. I assume that what you call the "round connector" is at the fuel pump. If you get no voltage to ground there, with the jumper in and key-on, then you have a break between the COR/diagnostic connector and the fuel pump. Try running a "jumper" from the round connector to FP. If the fuel pump runs with the jumper (key-on), you've positively identified the break.
Here's everything i know about the VAF-COR system: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-quits-312747/
I can see you are posting this from a phone. Please take the time to proof-read your posts, and get the punctuation mostly-correct. We aren't where you are; your words are all we have to help you.
The following users liked this post:
Garrettyota89 (12-05-2021)
#4
Welcome to YotaTech.
If you have 12v to ground at the B+ pin of the diagnostic connector (with key-on), the EFI relay is working. Jumpering B+ to FP at the diagnostic connector bypasses the VAF-COR circuit; if the truck won't run then your problem is elsewhere. I assume that what you call the "round connector" is at the fuel pump. If you get no voltage to ground there, with the jumper in and key-on, then you have a break between the COR/diagnostic connector and the fuel pump. Try running a "jumper" from the round connector to FP. If the fuel pump runs with the jumper (key-on), you've positively identified the break.
Here's everything i know about the VAF-COR system: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-quits-312747/
I can see you are posting this from a phone. Please take the time to proof-read your posts, and get the punctuation mostly-correct. We aren't where you are; your words are all we have to help you.
If you have 12v to ground at the B+ pin of the diagnostic connector (with key-on), the EFI relay is working. Jumpering B+ to FP at the diagnostic connector bypasses the VAF-COR circuit; if the truck won't run then your problem is elsewhere. I assume that what you call the "round connector" is at the fuel pump. If you get no voltage to ground there, with the jumper in and key-on, then you have a break between the COR/diagnostic connector and the fuel pump. Try running a "jumper" from the round connector to FP. If the fuel pump runs with the jumper (key-on), you've positively identified the break.
Here's everything i know about the VAF-COR system: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-quits-312747/
I can see you are posting this from a phone. Please take the time to proof-read your posts, and get the punctuation mostly-correct. We aren't where you are; your words are all we have to help you.
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The "blue" FP wire? The "round 2 blade connector"? We aren't where you are. We can't see what you see (photos might help). There might be someone on this forum so familiar with your truck that they know what you're talking about, but not me.
I have a '94, and my EWD is for that year. '89 was, well, a long time ago. The FP wire in '94 was solid blue, and ran from pin 1 of the COR. (There's a photo in the posting linked above.) I'm guessing that your "round" connector is at the fuel pump (they aren't round so much as oval in '94). If you don't have continuity from the blue wire at the COR to the blue wire at the fuel tank (whatever shape the connector is), then the blue wire is OPEN (not shorted; that would blow the EFI fuse). Of course, you'll want to test that the "other" wire at the fuel pump (probably W-B) has continuity to ground.
I have a '94, and my EWD is for that year. '89 was, well, a long time ago. The FP wire in '94 was solid blue, and ran from pin 1 of the COR. (There's a photo in the posting linked above.) I'm guessing that your "round" connector is at the fuel pump (they aren't round so much as oval in '94). If you don't have continuity from the blue wire at the COR to the blue wire at the fuel tank (whatever shape the connector is), then the blue wire is OPEN (not shorted; that would blow the EFI fuse). Of course, you'll want to test that the "other" wire at the fuel pump (probably W-B) has continuity to ground.
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