Philbert

iTrader: (2)

No worries - the site is FREE so I'm OK with bumps in the road here and there

It's nice to be able to wrench on the truck over a long period of time because I have the room and another car to drive, but I really wish I were faster/more efficient - and I want to go drive this sucker with the new mods! I really only get a couple-few hours a week free to work on it.

And, no, likely never doing an SAS to be honest. I need to actually take it out and USE it as is before I can consider something like that. It's 99% on pavement the last 10 years I've had it, and I am ashamed!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Ps> arent the counter ppl amazing? Some are great/very helpful. Couple have really saved me time on occasion..... But LATELY? ..... "You don't know what a u bolt is?" ..... "No sir,....you sure thats the name?" Then, "fan clutch? " ....same thing. Lol. My local O'Reilly? They only hire ppl who KNOW cars and trucks. All have had schooling or are in school/hungry to find an answer. Love that!

scope103

Actually, I think you're lucky they match local prices.

I usually print out the prices from an online source I'm willing to deal with, and give it to the counter-man at my favorite dealer. Before I do that, I know what the shipping will be, and make my personal calculation of how much it is worth to me to get the part in one day instead of five. Then I ask the counterman if he can give me a better price - not whether he will match it, because even I don't think that is fair. Somewhat to my surprise, I've usually been offered a price that's higher than the internet price plus shipping, but less than my personal threshhold. So I pay and get the part the next day.

While I'm doing that preparation, I also print out the parts diagram that shows the part I think I need, and the part number I think is right, AND my VIN. These guys behind the counter know a lot more than you think, and they might save you from ordering a wrong part if you're clear enough about what you THINK you want. Also, if you were behind the counter, would you rather deal with someone who really doesn't know the name of the part or what it's called and just wants to look at a bunch of parts and get one that looks right? Or deal with you when you've got the right diagram in your hand and already know the alternate source?

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Man that really stinks royally. I haven't got a clue why those guys where you are don't do the same as they do for me down here in south florida. I check out the prices online then I call them up and asked them to price match although, I usually have to ask for a specific person or persons. A few of those guys there won't mach the price. Sometimes if you check out the online store they sometimes state that they will match prices (meet or beat). You can call the dealer up and asked them if you place the order online can you pick it up instead of having them ship it.

I don't know everywhere you go it's different. One thing I found out years ago is the pricing from dealer to dealer is pretty much the same. Before it use to be different and that's way before until they found out about networking which linked pretty much all the dealers together to some degree. That's what i was told way back, maybe wrong but I did try calling around and the prices where exactly the same.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Same here at the dealer I visit. The guys that won't match the price usually don't have a clue to what the part is let alone there was a 2 door 4Runner standard 4WD. They are clueless, but the guys that do know there stuff always are willing to help you out.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

Thanks! Looks like the tech guys were able to work through the demons that were possessing page 7...all content looks to be restored.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Junk4u how u been?

Not sure on the same prices thing. Privately owned Yota lots/parts counter can charge much higher to cover "cost of living".... and "cost of doing business" stuffs. My buddy got quoted 39$ for a.window seal that I was quoted 58$ for the same thing. I know them, and asked, is there any way?... He said sure and asked, "what did ur buddy say?".... I said I wasnt positive but pretty sure under 40$.... So he chimed in, "Was it 39.95$ ?" ....and thats exactly what it was..... So if u press in but make friends and give respect? Usually tjey will go to "lowest avail".... I know mine for year s, so I just bring the print out from Toyotapartszone.com and they try to give me that or close.

OEM IS BEST, ..... usually! Lol. ... and, just a hwads up.... Just in the last word years, things are less arms less available amd more ams and more "NO LONGER AVAILABLE. ... EVER AGAIN! " .....OK, I added the 'ever again part, haha. But it's really what it should say on their computer.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Ps> the acct for 20% off is hard to get from some dealers. ... but its TD20. THEY DON'T do that much any more, but you can get them to do TD10 or TD15....

Howz'it, Phil???

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Sorry guys, no photos to share (left my SD card at work).

Yesterday I had a couple free hours and got some good stuff done:
- Fit new alternator belt (longer) on and other belts
- torqued crank bolt and did some hand revolutions to ensure valves weren't hitting cylinders (sanity check)
- Routed wiring for AFM and battery charge wire around back of engine bay (loom in the mail from Amazon)
- replaced crush washers on fuel pressure damper
- replaced crush washer and bolt on CSI injector
- Torqued head bolts to 63 ft/lbs (in FSM order)
- crimped, soldered and heat shrinked fusible link for alternator charge cord
- attached OEM charge wire to alternator (kept 4 gauge) wire direct from alt to Battery
- replaced distirbutor o ring and inserted distributor at TDC. I tried at 0* BTDC (so, TDC...duh) and inserted at 12:00, letting it rotate to 11:00. The match mark on the drive gear is JUST underneath the cam gear, and I think it is SUPPOSED to be just in *front* of it when at TDC...so we'll see if that needs adjustment when I start up.
- Poured in 4.5 quarts of oil and replaced valve cover

Still need to do:
- tighten all belts
- hook up some coolant hoses
- route vacuum hoses
- replace battery on drivers side (still need to figure out a permanent solution for the tray to keep this sucker in place)
- Fill with coolant/water
- Adjust TPS (this is off the truck right now...I need to do more research on this and the dashpot...the adjustment screw on the dashpot wasn't even touching anything
- Install 82 Supra AFM/intake (plug n play!) on passenger side
- Hook up header to rest of exhaust - I almost forgot about this - that would have been LOUD on startup!!

I really think that's it - then I can start it up and begin the cam break in procedure. I plan to crank a few times without the coil hooked up, to get some oil pressure and move oil throughout the engine - sound like the right approach?

Any other caveats/suggestions? Will keep ya'll posted!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Dimple on top of the dizzy drive gear goes just b4/counter clockwise of the CAM-dizzy drive gear.

Everything sounds NICE, CONGRATZ, PHIL!

I turned the motor over w/out coil a few revolutions and then slapped it on for cam break in. U go with the 261?

Got ur mounting bracket all ready for the supra afm? Or ur using a supra air intake box/filter?

Lube the cam really well?

Cant wait for the first start man, gonna be nice!

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Chef - I thought so, on the distributor gear, from when I did it before..is that at TDC or 5* BTDC that you set it JUST in front like you mention?

Lubed up cam good with assembly lube and lubed again last night.

The AFM has a cone filter - I bought from Kiyobrown last year - plan was to have it sit where the battery did, and some day fab an enclosure...not sure if I need brackets for it or not, as I haven't mocked it up yet.

My biggest concern is the battery and how to mount it. I thought there would be an identical threaded hole on the front top of the grill for the OEM batter hold down thingie, but there's not

Oh, and I got the 268* cam with the Street RV head.

Those 2 temp senders (one green, one brown) just ahead of the t Stat housing....my plugs are really LOOSE...any idea if that is bad or ok?

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

I knew I'd put these in this thread for a reason:

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Phil,.....

U start at 0*btdc when setting up base timing/stroke/setting valves...... BUT, once u start it, u adjust the dizzy to decide firing of spark, 5*, 8* or the like, depending on CAM.

When u go to smog it, the max retarding or advancing of timing allowed is 3* or so. If its an y more either way the ref makes u reset it at 5*btdc, or within range (I was at 8 due to my cam, as the duration changes things.

Far as the chain, I'm sure u know but wth, right? Lol..... ;

Cam end dowel is at 12 on the mark at the chain gear, dimple in chain gear at 11:59

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks again Mark - yeah the chain I know....done that job a couple times now LOL.

I didn't realize/remember on the 268* cam that you had to time it differently than 5* - I knew the valve lash is different than the stock 8 and 12 one-thousandths, but I guess I didn't know about timing being different...need to look into that.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PS>

If u pass the 0* mark on the crank of compression stroke, during the initial setting of valves, DO NOT turn the crank backward to 0*. That releases tension and gives a false reading on the valves.... When ppl do that, then go to exhaust, then back to double check the intake valves, where they find they are extremely loose/tight.(can't recall off top of head).

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Well, I think 7* or 8* was my sweet spot with a 261 cam. Tod will talk ya through that in a few min's. ;-)

Yeah, 7i and 9e on the 261 valve setting. Pretty unique break in, etc.

Kill it, bud! Excited for ya!

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

This is why I wrote this down almost 2 months ago when I started....but nothing about timing. I've been Googling for this answer...maybe I'll just email Ted and ask.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Hey Mark, that's a great tip - didn't think of that but it makes perfect sense!

I sent Ted an email asking about timing on his cam.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Ted just replied to my email:


Hi.

Valve lash is .007" intake, .009" exhaust. Set the ignition timing at stock for normal breakin.

After running and final adjustments, you can experiment a bit, we find some will benefit from a degree or two of added initial advance.

Often stock settings work just fine.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Yep, 7 n 9.... and I have my timing at 7*btdc.... Just checked for ya with my light. PURRRRRRR! Lol. Gotta love the Ted! Woot.