Painting 1st gen 4Runner top
10-06-2010 | 07:44 PM
#41
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Joined: Nov 2009
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From: antelope valley
i dont know if it's 2 late to tell u this....on top of dat my camera broke...
but the rustoleum sttuf...it's the way to go...
i did use a roller....(texture type)cut it in half...and use one of the small handles
for prep...i did sand it with 80 grit ...and clean it with (tsp) cleaner (liquid)
let it dry and roll it.....it look like a oe top
but the rustoleum sttuf...it's the way to go...
i did use a roller....(texture type)cut it in half...and use one of the small handles
for prep...i did sand it with 80 grit ...and clean it with (tsp) cleaner (liquid)
let it dry and roll it.....it look like a oe top
10-06-2010 | 08:00 PM
#42
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 382
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From: Always movin
I'd like to add a few things too.
-Dont forget to wet the area your painting to keep the dust down
-Wetsand it will come out better
-They make sticky wipes to remove ALL dust and dirt after you're done sanding i suggest you use those they work really well.
-Make sure there is absolutely NO water on the shell at all even a drop could really mess things up.
-Dont forget to wet the area your painting to keep the dust down
-Wetsand it will come out better
-They make sticky wipes to remove ALL dust and dirt after you're done sanding i suggest you use those they work really well.
-Make sure there is absolutely NO water on the shell at all even a drop could really mess things up.
10-06-2010 | 08:11 PM
#43
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From: Always movin
10-06-2010 | 09:13 PM
#45
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From: NJ - 5 miles from NYC
This company online www.automotivetouchup.com (and I'm sure others) sells "staged paints" with quality primer, base coats and clear coat cans. I have painted panels of my truck, my entire motorcycle, friends vehicles, and much more, this way and have achieved excellent results. The key is the follow-through. Don't be stingy with the clearcoat(if using) and wetsand in stages and then compound.
The only difference between can and gun painting is the propellent or delivery medium. It is also easier to control spray pattern and flow in a gun as the can will depressurize during usage. If you shake properly to expand the propellant gas and discard the can at the first sign of pressure loss miracles can happen.
10-07-2010 | 12:59 AM
#46
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I am a panel beater/painter by trade and I can tell you rattle can is not considered by anyone in the industry as quality regardless of brand or paint.The finish of a rattle can will never be the same as that from a gun. But I mean yotas are no BMW so you can pull of cheaper alternatives and get away with it especially considering most of us just smash them anyway haha. But brush? Cmon, it's not a friging house lol.
10-07-2010 | 07:40 AM
#47
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From: Moyock,NC
I am a panel beater/painter by trade and I can tell you rattle can is not considered by anyone in the industry as quality regardless of brand or paint.The finish of a rattle can will never be the same as that from a gun. But I mean yotas are no BMW so you can pull of cheaper alternatives and get away with it especially considering most of us just smash them anyway haha. But brush? Cmon, it's not a friging house lol.
10-07-2010 | 08:11 AM
#48
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Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Gainesville,GA
well i started sanding with 180 grit. i started with a air sander and quickly relived that it was not going to work. Have a few deep gashes from the sander. Then stared to just sand it by hand.
sanded with 180
i have never sanded anything so not sure if i sanded enough i wiped the dust off with a sock and it turned out like this
u guys think it is sanded well enough? All i was doing was pressing the sand paper with my hand I know most people use a block so should i get a block and go over it aging?
sanded with 180
i have never sanded anything so not sure if i sanded enough i wiped the dust off with a sock and it turned out like this
u guys think it is sanded well enough? All i was doing was pressing the sand paper with my hand I know most people use a block so should i get a block and go over it aging?
10-07-2010 | 08:19 AM
#50
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Looking good. I used 220 grit for mine. Sanding by hand/block is probably best for fiberglass. You just want to rough-up and even-out surface so that new primer & paint will adhere properly. Fix any gashes or they will really stick out later.
I mentioned doing a clear coat before because after a year the satin black I used faded into flat black, probably because the paint lacks adequate UV protection. I have had absolutely no problems with chipping or peeling.
I mentioned doing a clear coat before because after a year the satin black I used faded into flat black, probably because the paint lacks adequate UV protection. I have had absolutely no problems with chipping or peeling.
10-07-2010 | 08:52 AM
#51
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From: Moyock,NC
The point of sanding is to remove loose paint and rough up the surface so the new paint has something to bite into. Make sure nothing is shiny when you finish sanding. If you have some scrap 2x4 you could make a block out of it if you don't want to buy one. I use a dewalt electric random orbital on big flat surfaces and sand by hand on anything that isn't flat. You will be fine will the air sander as long as you keep it flat. Guys that build boats in carolina sand fiberglass boats all day long with mechanical sanders so you should be fine.
10-07-2010 | 06:30 PM
#52
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From: Gainesville,GA
Bought all my materials today got
1) 180 grit sandpaper with block
2) Tack cloths
3) Satin black Krylon fusion a guy mentioned it on here and decided to go with it
4) 600 grit wet sand paper
5) Krylon satin clear
Any comments on the paint before i start? It says for plastic but apperantly people use it
1) 180 grit sandpaper with block
2) Tack cloths
3) Satin black Krylon fusion a guy mentioned it on here and decided to go with it
4) 600 grit wet sand paper
5) Krylon satin clear
Any comments on the paint before i start? It says for plastic but apperantly people use it
10-07-2010 | 06:46 PM
#53
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Joined: Jun 2010
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I did my first paint job this summer. I did the bottom of the body, bumpers and visor with this 3M rubberized undercoating:
It is pricey ($10.00 a can WTF?!?) but after two to three days it dreis rock hard and will protect your top from the elements. It also fills in any minor imperfections and if it scratches or whatever it is as simple as buying a new can and spraying over it.
It is pricey ($10.00 a can WTF?!?) but after two to three days it dreis rock hard and will protect your top from the elements. It also fills in any minor imperfections and if it scratches or whatever it is as simple as buying a new can and spraying over it.
10-07-2010 | 07:19 PM
#55
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From: Gainesville,GA
Lol good to hear. Make sure to make a write up and i will too. So the next person has a thread to look at. I was surprised there was not more info on this. Next come the truck
10-07-2010 | 07:20 PM
#56
I'll probably just include it in part of my 4985749385945083 page build up thread lol. Sent you a PM by the way.
