95blackToy

alright thanks jbtvt, I might try that tomorrow if i get it to run for a while, I will also try to tear the dash apart and check on that relay, wish it wasnt above the ECM, its a pain messing with the dash, probably wont be able to check the fuel pressure regulator either if it doesnt run, i adjusted the TPS a while back and it was all within specs, and i dont imagine it would run fine and just die all of a sudden from a TPS, also doesnt start when its unplugged. Im assuming my EFI relay is fine because i tried swapping it with the starter relay and there was no change. Im gonna work on it some more tomorrow, so il post up then.

95blackToy

When i hold the flapper on my MAF open when the key is on i hear fuel, but its lounder than i expected, almost sounds like the pump is in the engine compartment instead of the fuel tank. Is that loudness normal? Almost sounds like its flowing past a valve or something.

95blackToy

Well today i checked alot of stuff, Checked my EFI relay and the COR and they were all functioning just fine. Checked resistance in the coil, distributor, and some other various thing. In the ignition switch if you look here http://ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995_4Rn...e/ignition.pdf it tells what is suppose to have continuity, well 1-4 or 4-6 didnt have continuity so i figured that might have been the problem, but its wierd because that is when the switch is turned to start but it starts just fine, just doesnt run, but if i hold the key in the start position for a while after it cranks it will continue to run as long as its in the start position. Is there a way to check the ignitor without the truck idleing? It happened to run for about a minute once and it threw a code 14, we did a spark check and it has spark up untill it dies completely, so that eliminates a spark problem, but would a bad ignitor cause the ecm to not fire the injectors. Any suggestions or things we missed?

T.O'Brien

So for a moment my two cents tells me to check you ignition switch...where you put the key in. Also, incase somebody hasn't said anything. GET RID OF YOUR K&N Fliter. It will kill your MAFM. I had running and starting issues that were running me up a tree. Seriously, I changed my MAF to a new one and PROBLEM gone. a year later it came back, bought a new MAF and changed to a AEM filter...no issues since. Read throught the classifieds the other night. There's a guy that has two MAF up for grabs, I'll see if I can find the link and forward it to you.

95blackToy

So you mean back to the stock airbox? I have lots of running and starting problems with this thing. Is it the oil in it or something?

T.O'Brien

No AEM makes a 6" cone filter to replace ur K&N one exactly. The oil in the filter is the issue. First MAF was a temp code, the second time it just wouldn't start. Replaced my MAF again and no issues since. This might work for u, it might not. But eliminate all cheap/free and simple solutions first.

95blackToy

Alright I'll check it out. Does the AEM not have oil? I'm gonna check all my grounds again and sand them all down. Is there any that aren't easily visible, or any that I should pay special attention to?

T.O'Brien

The AEM is a synthetic fiber and dry. As far as the grounds...nothing I can think of that aren't visible. I called around to yotamasters, and talked to Troy out at hillside wrecking yard (Toyota only yard). Don't know if he's still there, he's hard to find but a wealth of knowledge when it comes to Toyota's in general.

95blackToy

Alright sweet, Im planning on getting one when the money is there. There isnt many toyotas in yards here. Not many yotas in general.

95blackToy

Well im staying home from school to work on thhe yota, its 22* outside, feels like 8*.
Im gonna start with checking grounds and moving on to ignitor from that and then the ignition switch. Any suggestions?

95blackToy

Well after fooling with it and trying to crank it for a while. i had no luck. Well one time when i cranked it started and died, but the starter wouldn't stop spinning, so I disconnected the negative battery cable. I went and bought an ignition switch assuming thats what the problem was, well it wasnt. It ended up that my starter relay was just stuck. And Im now out the money for that , and still dont have a running truck.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Would have been best to do a little diagnostic test before replacing parts:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#EasyTest

One option would be to pull the starter relay and test it and if indeed it is sticking on, see if you can open it up and file the contacts as they typically get welded together when they stick:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#OtherOptions

Although, turning off the ignition switch should stop the starter even if the relay is stuck, as normally the relay power comes from the ignition START contact. So might also be worth checking the solenoid in the starter, it may be dirty inside causing it to stick or the contacts may be unevenly worn causing a similar issue.

95blackToy

thanks crawler, but the starter is fine, and it has not done it since I taped on the relay. And i agree I should have checked more stuff before just replacing it. I found that if i hold the key on start after it starts it will continue running but backfires occasionally and then it smooths out after a second or two. I can then rev the motor all I want but if I let off the key it dies after a second or two. I also have no codes. I once got a code 14 (IGF signal from igniter is not input to ECM for 6 consecutive ignitions), a few days ago, but wouldn't that mean the igniter was bad? And if it was bad wouldn't there be no spark?

jbtvt

Bummer man. Yeah, diag code would've been nice as 4crawler mentions but you did try that you said? If you're lucky enough to have a terminal in your TE2 in the diag box, jumping that to E1, and then starting/driving the engine (catch 22 of course, but worth a shot even if it only turns over) enables the test mode, extra sensitive diagnostic mode basically. http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/sn..._dtc_check.pdf

Helping a friend with his valve cover gaskets etc yesterday I learned they make aerosol Seafoam, might try spraying that in an intake to clean up anything the oil may have messed with. Also helps to start it like ether. Prob want to be careful with it around the TPS, like any solvent.

jbtvt

OK, got me curious with this. Checked it out, and may be the air sensor after all. You do still have a VAFM on this though, not MAF, by the way? Anyway, only other reported solutions were for the ignition switch, which you tried. So not a total waste! Seems the FP +B jumper might only disable the AFM feedback to fuel pump, and if it was totally shot could still cause your issue.

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=390559
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...sition-108000/

Resistance specs for the AFM are in haynes or the FSM, if you don't have either PM me and I'll email you the file.

TNRabbit

You mentioned you fixed a leak in the intake....what was wrong? Sounds like you have an unmetered air issue. Another leak?

95blackToy

Im not very good with a multimeter but I checked the resistance of the vafm as best I could and Im pretty sure they all checked out just fine. I wouldn't rule it out completely but It seems fine. Thanks for the thread links. And the leak was in the intake hose, just a crack. replaced it with this monster .

I think it was just coincidence that it started that one time after i fixed it, because it has started one other time to. im gonna go try the test mode real quick and keep yall posted.

95blackToy

well test mode didn't get anything either. I held the key in the start position so that it would run for a little bit.Im about stumped unless its the vafm

95blackToy

Well the list of confirmed good parts keeps going up, today i got a used VAFM. It still doesnt work. I have replaced the ignitor, VAFM, ignition switch, Cold start injector time switch. This thing has got me fooled. Anyone have any clue what else it could be?

95blackToy

If the little regulator on the alternator was bad and the car was getting too much voltage could that cause my problem? I am reading about 17 volts coming out of it. FSM said 13-16 or something like that.