old style iacv
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old style iacv
has anyone ever rebuilt/refurbished the older style idle air control valves? I have two failed ones, and you cant get a new one from what ive found. its a discontinued part. aside from sourcing out another used unit, or swapping my throttle body out to accept the new style, is there anything I can do to salvage my old one? anyone ever tried a rebuild? or have any tech specs on the internals?
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There is an electrical connection on the aux air valve. Ohm that out with your multimeter. If it reads open link then it has failed.
I imagine if you can take it apart you could match some resistance wire to it and make a new coil bit I'm not sure you can. I use kanthal wire for my ecigs. Same principle really
Although you could do the upper intake swap from the newer 22re for pretty cheap. That is the way i would go if the valve is truly bad
Last edited by 92ehatch; 02-23-2016 at 08:23 AM.
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That is a bimetal kind of like what thermostats use. Is it broken?
There is an electrical connection on the aux air valve. Ohm that out with your multimeter. If it reads open link then it has failed.
I imagine if you can take it apart you could match some resistance wire to it and make a new coil bit I'm not sure you can. I use kanthal wire for my ecigs. Same principle really
Although you could do the upper intake swap from the newer 22re for pretty cheap. That is the way i would go if the valve is truly bad
There is an electrical connection on the aux air valve. Ohm that out with your multimeter. If it reads open link then it has failed.
I imagine if you can take it apart you could match some resistance wire to it and make a new coil bit I'm not sure you can. I use kanthal wire for my ecigs. Same principle really
Although you could do the upper intake swap from the newer 22re for pretty cheap. That is the way i would go if the valve is truly bad
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Take a hair dryer and get it nice and hot. It should move towards closed. Then put in the freezer and it should open up wide. The bimetal itself really won't go bad. The internal heater can however.
It's a Simple test with a cheap multimeter for the heater portion. They are also adjustable
It's a Simple test with a cheap multimeter for the heater portion. They are also adjustable
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Take a hair dryer and get it nice and hot. It should move towards closed. Then put in the freezer and it should open up wide. The bimetal itself really won't go bad. The internal heater can however.
It's a Simple test with a cheap multimeter for the heater portion. They are also adjustable
It's a Simple test with a cheap multimeter for the heater portion. They are also adjustable
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The old style is adjustable? I'll have to tinker with it and see. Both the ones I have stay in one position. Hot or cold. Both in different positions. The slides and spring are clean, so whatever controls the paddle is what's not functioning properly or sticking. Have to figure out how to take that apart, maybe clean it.
There is a nut with yellow marking on it. Loosen that nut then pry it one direction or the other. It will move the mechanism slightly. Once set then hammer down with a hair dryer and after a few minutes it should close. If you put it in the freezer it will open.
However all this will be in vane if the electrical heater is bad. The only way to test this is with a meter.
I just cleaned and adjusted mine last week. I should have taken pictures and made a tech post.
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Yes it is adjustable. Basically at room temp you only want it to be slightly open like a crescent moon.
There is a nut with yellow marking on it. Loosen that nut then pry it one direction or the other. It will move the mechanism slightly. Once set then hammer down with a hair dryer and after a few minutes it should close. If you put it in the freezer it will open.
However all this will be in vane if the electrical heater is bad. The only way to test this is with a meter.
I just cleaned and adjusted mine last week. I should have taken pictures and made a tech post.
There is a nut with yellow marking on it. Loosen that nut then pry it one direction or the other. It will move the mechanism slightly. Once set then hammer down with a hair dryer and after a few minutes it should close. If you put it in the freezer it will open.
However all this will be in vane if the electrical heater is bad. The only way to test this is with a meter.
I just cleaned and adjusted mine last week. I should have taken pictures and made a tech post.
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What year is your truck. Possibly a older style motor put into a newer truck? The newer 22re had a coolant only based iacv mounted to the throttle body and no electrical connections. Can you take a picture?
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It's an 89 truck. But has an 88 motor/injectors /harness. I'll take a pic and post it shortly.
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Is your throttle body angled down or straight?
Last edited by 92ehatch; 02-23-2016 at 03:06 PM.
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Both are like this. Hot or cold. The one on the truck is closed more. Just a sliver open when hot or cold.
Angled down throttle body
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You said there is no plug on the harness for that idle valve. It needs that to keep it hot and operate properly.
What is wrong with your truck anyway. What are your symptoms
Your options are.
Source the upper intake manifold from a newer style 22re with straight tb that has the thermowax iacv and swap it.
Or bypass that one completely. Doing so will eliminate the high idle cold starts however this would only be recommended in warmer climates.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-PICKUP-4RUNNER-22RE-UPPER-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-PLENUM-W-THROTTLE-BODY-/281917749078?nav=SEARCH
What is wrong with your truck anyway. What are your symptoms
Your options are.
Source the upper intake manifold from a newer style 22re with straight tb that has the thermowax iacv and swap it.
Or bypass that one completely. Doing so will eliminate the high idle cold starts however this would only be recommended in warmer climates.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-PICKUP-4RUNNER-22RE-UPPER-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-PLENUM-W-THROTTLE-BODY-/281917749078?nav=SEARCH
Last edited by 92ehatch; 02-23-2016 at 03:34 PM.
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You said there is no plug on the harness for that idle valve. It needs that to keep it hot and operate properly.
Your options are.
Source the upper intake manifold from a newer style 22re with straight tb that has the thermowax iacv and swap it.
Or bypass that one completely. Doing so will eliminate the high idle cold starts however this would only be recommended in warmer climates.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-PICKUP-...078?nav=SEARCH
Your options are.
Source the upper intake manifold from a newer style 22re with straight tb that has the thermowax iacv and swap it.
Or bypass that one completely. Doing so will eliminate the high idle cold starts however this would only be recommended in warmer climates.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-PICKUP-...078?nav=SEARCH
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It does take alot of heat to move them and they are slow.
You could wire up a 12v supply to that valve and just have it come on when the ignition is turned on.
Btw that picture of that throttle body is mine and i have no use for it. If you decide to swap to later style and need a tb for it pm me
You could wire up a 12v supply to that valve and just have it come on when the ignition is turned on.
Btw that picture of that throttle body is mine and i have no use for it. If you decide to swap to later style and need a tb for it pm me
Last edited by 92ehatch; 02-23-2016 at 03:49 PM.
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It does take alot of heat to move them and they are slow.
You could wire up a 12v supply to that valve and just have it come on when the ignition is turned on.
Btw that picture of that throttle body is mine and i have no use for it. If you decide to swap to later style and need a tb for it pm me
You could wire up a 12v supply to that valve and just have it come on when the ignition is turned on.
Btw that picture of that throttle body is mine and i have no use for it. If you decide to swap to later style and need a tb for it pm me
Might try something like this for a manual idle air control valve. 20 bucks from O'Reilly.
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