So I've searched all over this site and Google, and can't find anything. I acquired a 94 sr5 with the "tried and true" 3.0. It seemed to run ok in open loop...closed loop runs like crap and bucks like a son of a gun under any kind of load. Threw the timing light on it after checking the TPS VAFM and egr...and bam the timing mark isn't even on the degree plate.....so where is the timing mark you may ask...almost perpendicular with the GROUND.....so far off I don't know if it's way advanced or way retarded (just an expression it is definately retarded cuz advancing the dissy all the way brings it the direction of advance...anyway adjusting the dissy doesn't move it near enough. So I'm trying to see if any of you lovely people can gimme some insight before I tear apart the front of the engine to Find out if the belt is on right..any help would be appreciated.

 

Also I shod mention I get what sounds like a intermittent valve knock...or something similar when just cruising not under load at around 2100 ish rpm...and when accelerating..not sure if it is related but it could be. Supposedly the timing belt was recently replaced... So I have no idea and don't really wanna tear into it on a whim..

 

Ok here is an update, pulled the whole front of the motor apart come to find out the crank pulleys attached to the harmonic balancer have separated which explains why my timing mark was so far of the scale...I still think it must have jumped a tooth on the cam gear cuz the belt was in rough shape. Water pump bearings are noisy so I'm gonna replace it...unfortunately I can't get the cam pulleys off. 80 ft-lb my A$$. Somebody had to have used a 1/2" air impact on those suckers. Where would I go for the special tool?

 

No reason to remove the cam sheaves unless the oil seals are leaking.

In any case, it is better to immobilise the camshaft itself with a large open-end wrench, than to try to hold the sheave itself with any kind of tool. This can sometimes damage the dowel pin, or its hole in either the sheave or the cam itself.

The valve covers must be removed in order to get a wrench onto the cam.

Good time to check and adjust the valve lash anyway.

 

Can you post a picture of it? I've heard of this happening more than once, but I always wondered exactly what to look for.

Agreed.
That's my preferred method to remove the cam bolts, and a good explanation for why other methods (like the one in the FSM) can damage the "knock pin."

But I don't think there's enough room to get an adjustable wrench in there (you sure don't want that hard steel wrench pushing into the soft aluminum head!) So I picked up a 27mm combination wrench from Home Depot (less than $10). You can use a 1 1/16", but you probably don't have that either, so you might as well get the right wrench.

Note the 2x4; turns this into a one-girl job.

 

scope103 here is the balancer separated. When it's on, it would be hard to tell unless your timing marks are way off indicating the pulley slipped on the balancer.


And I ended up not needing to remove the cams at all I didn't realize that plate in front of the timing belt idler pulley\water outlet separated from the rest of the back timing cover.