rattlecanpaint

The ongoing saga that is my sons rebuild continues. (86 22RE) Turns out the engine has an '84 timing cover on it. (Or is an '84 engine swapped in with the EFI installed. I thought in '85 they increased the deck height of the block and thus timing cover would not fit right?) I figured this out because the water pump I bought would bolt up but leak like a sieve out the top. Turns out they changed the design to a curved top on the water pump instead of strait across. Once I got that figured out and fixed, I got the engine started and now it leaks oil like a sieve. Looks like it's coming from the new oil pump or front main. It leaks so bad it slings it off the crank pulley as soon as the engine starts. Got a real mess in there. My question is, does anyone know what the difference is?

Also, The fuel injector wiring has been butchered like the rest of the truck and the wiring diagram in the haynes manual shows all the ground wires for all 4 injectors hooked together and then going to the ECM (2 different pins). Seems like this is a mistake? How can it fire all 4 injectors at the same time? Also still trying to figure out how the resistor thing works for firing companion cylinders at the same time)

rattlecanpaint

And another thing, Where is the check plug supposed to be? I'm supposed to jump 2 pins to set the timing but I don't see anything other than a 2 wire round plug that's open coming from the ignitor?

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

it is correctly wired. all 4 injectors fire at the same time, every time [batch fired]. they apply appx. one-fourth the needed fuel with each pulse, thereby introducing a "full charge" for the power stroke.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

You can bypass all the chasing wires around that may or may not be there, just locate and ground T1/TE1 at the ECU plug..


These are the diagnostics connectors.

superex87

On your oil pump there is a o-ring gasket that goes between the oil pump and the timing cover. It is very easy to pinch the gasket and it will leak like crazy.

2ToyGuy

I found a nifty little trick to that. Use what's called "peanut butter grease", the super thick, heavy grease, that's the color of, you guessed it, peanut butter. A little dab at several points, I use a toothpick to apply it, around in the groove where the o-ring goes, especially corners. It holds the o-ring in place until you can set the oil pump in place and put a couple bolts in to hold it.
Prevents the o-ring from coming out of the groove during install, and getting pinched.
This works like a dream for the valve cover gasket as well, so you can set it down without it sticking out someplace, and getting pinched.
Good luck!
Pat☺

rattlecanpaint

So I finally got back to my sons truck. The Oil pumps ARE different. The snout is longer on the '86 vs. the '84. The balancer will push in the front main when you bolt it down. Which kind of reinforces my view that this is an 84 engine. The balancer goes with the '84 timing cover. It runs halfway decent now but still kind of rough. (Could be old bad fuel as it's set for God knows how long) My issue now (I swear this truck is cursed) there is a squeak at the back of the valve cover. My guess is the cam bearing is shot. (We had the head cleaned up and resurfaced originally as we had a warped head, but not rebuilt.) My question now is has anyone heard a EGR valve make this type of noise? (I'm hoping against hope that it's the EGR either rattling or bypassing and making the noise.)

rattlecanpaint

Here is a short video of the noise it's making now. I'm thinking cam bearing but could be the EGR valve. What say you?

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Sounds like a throwout bearing to me

scope103

Get a stethoscope https://www.harborfreight.com/mechan...ope-63691.html (you can use a wooden dowel held to your ear, but for $5 you can wear it around your neck and have people call you "Dr. Rattlecanpaint"!) You should be able to hear a cam bearing or EGR valve pretty easily. The throwout bearing will be tougher, but this sort of thing is often the process of elimination.

rattlecanpaint

I guess I'd rather it be the throwout bearing than a cam bearing..... whole lot cheaper. Will have a listen if I get home early enough tonight. (Clutch was replaced by previous owner so it's probably been screwed up too.) thanks.

rattlecanpaint

And the winner is..... Exhaust leak at the EGR valve. Caused by a bolt that is just barely loose. 1/4 turn and noise went away. Now to the auto parts store to compare timing chain lengths.