Oil Pan Removal and Eventual Top End Rebuild
02-25-2011, 03:39 AM
#21
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those conditions of the head bolts are normal. Some of those bolts go through oil passages in the block. So oil and carbon on those bolts is normal.
And Jerry remember he had coolant leaking at the back of the head. So if the it was the headgasket leaking then the coolant was going outside of the engine and not to the cyl's.
Although uncommon for a headgasket to leak outside of the engine, it's possible. Had that happen to our 2.2 cavalier.
And Jerry remember he had coolant leaking at the back of the head. So if the it was the headgasket leaking then the coolant was going outside of the engine and not to the cyl's.
Although uncommon for a headgasket to leak outside of the engine, it's possible. Had that happen to our 2.2 cavalier.
and definitely gotta give those bolt holes some attention.....don't want to bottom the bolts out on crud......a small screwdriver / drywall screw / Q-tips and some acetone and you should get them nice and clean......and also clean up a bolt and and thread it in and out repeatedly and lather-rinse-repeat until you can do it easily by hand and get no more crud out of the holes.....my suspicion is that they did not do this or did not torque and re-torque.....since the previous repair job left the broken pieces in the pan it was a sloppy job at best.
02-25-2011, 07:34 AM
#22
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I don't recall seeing a thread on the timing chain but I do recall someone saying it.
I have moved the crank all around to clean the pistons and cylinder walls, just keep the tension on the chain a bit and you'll be ok.
Listen to 92 really clean the holes out...I did has he did as well used a many razor blades and took it slow and easy.
I have moved the crank all around to clean the pistons and cylinder walls, just keep the tension on the chain a bit and you'll be ok.
Listen to 92 really clean the holes out...I did has he did as well used a many razor blades and took it slow and easy.
02-25-2011, 04:18 PM
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yeh...that's why I said it looked like it was leaking OUT not IN.....
and definitely gotta give those bolt holes some attention.....don't want to bottom the bolts out on crud......a small screwdriver / drywall screw / Q-tips and some acetone and you should get them nice and clean......and also clean up a bolt and and thread it in and out repeatedly and lather-rinse-repeat until you can do it easily by hand and get no more crud out of the holes.....my suspicion is that they did not do this or did not torque and re-torque.....since the previous repair job left the broken pieces in the pan it was a sloppy job at best.
and definitely gotta give those bolt holes some attention.....don't want to bottom the bolts out on crud......a small screwdriver / drywall screw / Q-tips and some acetone and you should get them nice and clean......and also clean up a bolt and and thread it in and out repeatedly and lather-rinse-repeat until you can do it easily by hand and get no more crud out of the holes.....my suspicion is that they did not do this or did not torque and re-torque.....since the previous repair job left the broken pieces in the pan it was a sloppy job at best.
Looking into taking my head to a machinist here in town. He quoted me about $250 for cleaning, resurfacing and setting the valves---going to order new valves and springs from EB. I mean it is practically the same price as getting a new head from EB--sort of on the fence about it.
I will have plenty of time to clean and think over the coming days.
03-04-2011, 03:12 PM
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Clean clean clean! I have been blowing throw carb and brake cleaner like a fiend!
I attempted cleaning the lower EFI still in the engine bay, because I didn't want to remove the wiring harness--what did I wind up doing--removing the wiring harness (not bad at all--snapped a few photos and undid it from around the tranny, cat converter, starter and front diff--and a few other places.)
Cleaned upper and lower EFI with carb/choke cleaner and used my little modified toilet bowl scrubber for getting in there--worked great.
As for the mating surfaces (EGR and tubes included), razor blades and a light steel brush did the trick--along with more break cleaner.
Cleaned out the valve cover and pcv valve, and replaced the pcv grommet.
Spent about a half day cleaning out the head bolt holes, block, and cylinder heads. The block was all about razor blades and a wire brush. I tried my hardest to keep the debris from falling into the oil passage and coolant holes.
As for the bolts holes, I wound up placing a rag around the hole, putting the straw on the carb/choke cleaner, spraying it into the hole, and catching the debris with the rag. Then I wrapped a pipe cleaner around a screw driver and running it around the threads. Also used a steel brush that could reach in there. Repeated this several times, and I ended with this:
I could hand tighten all the bolts without resistance until they bottomed out, EXCEPT FOR THE ONE NEW HEAD BOLT WHICH HAD A DIP IN ITS FIRST THREAD. I discovered it while trying to thread it into the block, and not being able to get it to thread without binding (I checked the block threads with another bolt and it threaded on with ease). I would consider to reuse one of my old head bolts if I hadn't already gotten rid of them (stupid stupid stupid). I tried filing the dip out, but was unsuccessful. O'Reilly's and Autozone only sell sets. Shot Ted an email asking if he could send me a replacement, since I got it through him. We shall see. The head should be here Monday.
EDIT: Ted emailed me back in 15mins and said he has got one on the way priority mail--once again Engnbldr proves why he is a legend in these forums.
QUESTION: I was thinking while the head was out, I would bolt on the lower EFI, and the two pick up tubes that run along the back, and install it all together--That way getting those lower bolts on the EFI torqued to spec, won't be such a PITA. Is it possible?
I attempted cleaning the lower EFI still in the engine bay, because I didn't want to remove the wiring harness--what did I wind up doing--removing the wiring harness (not bad at all--snapped a few photos and undid it from around the tranny, cat converter, starter and front diff--and a few other places.)
Cleaned upper and lower EFI with carb/choke cleaner and used my little modified toilet bowl scrubber for getting in there--worked great.
As for the mating surfaces (EGR and tubes included), razor blades and a light steel brush did the trick--along with more break cleaner.
Cleaned out the valve cover and pcv valve, and replaced the pcv grommet.
Spent about a half day cleaning out the head bolt holes, block, and cylinder heads. The block was all about razor blades and a wire brush. I tried my hardest to keep the debris from falling into the oil passage and coolant holes.
As for the bolts holes, I wound up placing a rag around the hole, putting the straw on the carb/choke cleaner, spraying it into the hole, and catching the debris with the rag. Then I wrapped a pipe cleaner around a screw driver and running it around the threads. Also used a steel brush that could reach in there. Repeated this several times, and I ended with this:
I could hand tighten all the bolts without resistance until they bottomed out, EXCEPT FOR THE ONE NEW HEAD BOLT WHICH HAD A DIP IN ITS FIRST THREAD. I discovered it while trying to thread it into the block, and not being able to get it to thread without binding (I checked the block threads with another bolt and it threaded on with ease). I would consider to reuse one of my old head bolts if I hadn't already gotten rid of them (stupid stupid stupid). I tried filing the dip out, but was unsuccessful. O'Reilly's and Autozone only sell sets. Shot Ted an email asking if he could send me a replacement, since I got it through him. We shall see. The head should be here Monday.
EDIT: Ted emailed me back in 15mins and said he has got one on the way priority mail--once again Engnbldr proves why he is a legend in these forums.
QUESTION: I was thinking while the head was out, I would bolt on the lower EFI, and the two pick up tubes that run along the back, and install it all together--That way getting those lower bolts on the EFI torqued to spec, won't be such a PITA. Is it possible?
Last edited by Smelliottkuhn; 03-04-2011 at 03:51 PM.
10-21-2011, 11:17 PM
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There is a link to his thread at the top of this one (right around the photos of the removed pan). Not sure what the difference in removal on the v6 is though---but I will tell ya, if you got 4x4, get ready to drop the front differential (assuming you are riding a stock lift). Dropping the differential wasn't so bad.
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