Oil blow by
#1
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Oil blow by
Hellow all , here is the thing i drove my truck 200+ miles and the frount valve cover gasget blew out and i fixed it, drove another 30 miles and the back valve gasget blew out ,fixed it. i got to my destination and i took the hose off from the valve cover in the frount and i had mager oil coming out , WHAT COULD BE CAUSING THAT ..JUST HAD THE MOTER REBILT!!!! 87 toy 2.2 ps . when its cold it starts up fine but after it is warm i have to bump start it....
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Did you put the oil in it after it was rebuilt or did someone else, wondering if it has too much oil in it and the pressure is blowing your gasket, what is the ignition timing set at?
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i put oil in it !!4 quourts ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, i had the motor boroed 30 over , the head and the block shaved...the oil is coming out of the frount hole in the valve cover ,, not the pvc........
#6
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are you spelling like that to be funny, cause it's confusing me
lol
the valve cover gasket itself one peice; what do you mean by "frount valve cover gasget blew out" and "the back valve gasget blew out", are you talking about the semi-cricle rubber chunks that are inset into the head?
if so, put a little RTV around them; I've had to do that with every new gasket
but if they're physically BLOWING OUT, as in removing theirself from the head, then you have a serious valve stem seal leak
and the starting issue is probably unrelated; probably the common contacts worn on it; you can rebuild it and replace the contacts, or just go the easy, but more expensive route, and just replace the starter
lol
the valve cover gasket itself one peice; what do you mean by "frount valve cover gasget blew out" and "the back valve gasget blew out", are you talking about the semi-cricle rubber chunks that are inset into the head?
if so, put a little RTV around them; I've had to do that with every new gasket
but if they're physically BLOWING OUT, as in removing theirself from the head, then you have a serious valve stem seal leak
and the starting issue is probably unrelated; probably the common contacts worn on it; you can rebuild it and replace the contacts, or just go the easy, but more expensive route, and just replace the starter
Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; 06-10-2009 at 06:06 PM.
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2.2L would be the 4cyl Chrysler engine from the 80's used in the Daytona, etc.
Or could be a 20R? GM was partial to a 2.0 while Ford seemed to like 2.3, Mazda did have the B2000, B2200, etc., and I don't care what Nissan had.
Anyhow... oil coming out of the front hole in the valve cover? There are no holes on the front of the valve cover, however there are three holes on the top side of the cover and the one closest to the front of the engine is the oil cap... maybe you should put it back on?
Now... back to business... not many reasons for oil to be in the vent hose: one mechanical and one by design- high crankcase pressure being the first and that could be excessive blowby, which is VERY normal for a recently rebuilt engine and can continue until the rings seat which can be anywhere between 100 and 1000 miles or so and will depend greatly on the technique used by the shop when boring and honing the cylinders as well as the installer's "brain" (let's hope he/she installed the rings properly)... using modern engine oil during break in tends to extend the break in period on an engine designed 20+ years ago...
... or ...
...how's the baffle and gasket on the underside of the valve cover doing?
Or could be a 20R? GM was partial to a 2.0 while Ford seemed to like 2.3, Mazda did have the B2000, B2200, etc., and I don't care what Nissan had.
Anyhow... oil coming out of the front hole in the valve cover? There are no holes on the front of the valve cover, however there are three holes on the top side of the cover and the one closest to the front of the engine is the oil cap... maybe you should put it back on?
Now... back to business... not many reasons for oil to be in the vent hose: one mechanical and one by design- high crankcase pressure being the first and that could be excessive blowby, which is VERY normal for a recently rebuilt engine and can continue until the rings seat which can be anywhere between 100 and 1000 miles or so and will depend greatly on the technique used by the shop when boring and honing the cylinders as well as the installer's "brain" (let's hope he/she installed the rings properly)... using modern engine oil during break in tends to extend the break in period on an engine designed 20+ years ago...
... or ...
...how's the baffle and gasket on the underside of the valve cover doing?
Last edited by abecedarian; 06-10-2009 at 09:00 PM.
#13
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or the previous 2.2 like in the GMC Sonoma I'm driving right now while in the process of rebuilding my 2.4?
or that 2.2l I put in my step sister's Calvalier?
shall I go on?
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is the oil draining down the journals fine? do you know if your heads - and specifically the journals were gasket-matched? could it possibly be overfilled?
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Ecotech? Uh... this is a forum dedicate to WHAT years? So I guess it might be a 94+ Sonoma?
Okay, maybe an 88-95 Cavalier... but that's not relevant. Some of us get that the "F" in "FWD" doesn't mean "Four".
Yeah, please go on... and keep in mind it's a "87 toy 2.2 ps " the OP was talking about.
Okay, maybe an 88-95 Cavalier... but that's not relevant. Some of us get that the "F" in "FWD" doesn't mean "Four".
Yeah, please go on... and keep in mind it's a "87 toy 2.2 ps " the OP was talking about.
Last edited by abecedarian; 06-10-2009 at 09:51 PM.
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I felt like being an @$$ to someone tonight, and you were tonight's lucky winner
hahaha
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lets try this again the blow by is coming from the middle hole on top of the valve cover that goes to the outamatic choke , when it is cold it starts up great.after it is warm it cranks over but wont start...unless i bump start it....how can i relieve some of that presher..im thinking about selling it but i dont realy want to.... ya i now my spelling sucks lol...