No Spark, strange prob
#1
No Spark, strange prob
hey everyone have a strange prob here, truck started and then didn't and then the next morning it started, since then we have no spark, have changed the distributer and coil and igniter, have done continuity check on the wires to coil and igniter, also dis. too and all the wires work also have changed the computer to one from the truck we pulled the motor from and it says code 51, but the computer that was in the truck just blinks consistantly when te1 and e1 are connected , any help would be great
#2
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#8
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So let me get this straight:
It sparks when you stop cranking (engine still turning)?
You can't push start it?
You've checked the following for continuity:
Distributor->Ignitor->ECU->Ignitor->Coil
You've replaced the distributor, the ignitor, and the coil
The only obvious things here are the coil->distributor wire, but you mention that it does spark, just not when cranking...
If it sparks when you stop current to the starter, that indicates and electrical load problem, which is why I asked if the headlights still stay on when cranking...
We're missing something here...
It sparks when you stop cranking (engine still turning)?
You can't push start it?
You've checked the following for continuity:
Distributor->Ignitor->ECU->Ignitor->Coil
You've replaced the distributor, the ignitor, and the coil
The only obvious things here are the coil->distributor wire, but you mention that it does spark, just not when cranking...
If it sparks when you stop current to the starter, that indicates and electrical load problem, which is why I asked if the headlights still stay on when cranking...
We're missing something here...
#9
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Location: Manhattan IL
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Are your fuel injector triggering if not it's your crank sensor it's on the back of the distributer on the 22re if your fuel injectors are triggering determin if the coil is being triggered
Last edited by gametom; 05-03-2007 at 08:33 PM.
#10
to set things striaght i am testing spark from the coil, it did spark then it didn't i found a blown 7.5 amp fuse in the drivers kick area, then found a blown 30 in the relay center, the head lights stay on when cranking, and now the check engine light don't even come on when the key is turned.
#12
a coolant sensor would cause this to happen, just makes me wonder cause it has to be part of a circuit that is open, or is it a failsafe type of thing so that you don't overheat the aluminum motor, it's wierd cause the check engine lighte stoped working and that means no ecu power, or is the coolant sensor know to do this too, not a toyo guy just trying to help a friend out, ( when we swaped the motor we had to use our harness it was from 89 and the motor from 86, i had to 2 swap sensors on the far back of the engine on the "coolant block" in lack of better words, because the wouldn't plug into my harness
#14
Registered User
a coolant sensor would cause this to happen, just makes me wonder cause it has to be part of a circuit that is open, or is it a failsafe type of thing so that you don't overheat the aluminum motor, it's wierd cause the check engine lighte stoped working and that means no ecu power, or is the coolant sensor know to do this too, not a toyo guy just trying to help a friend out, ( when we swaped the motor we had to use our harness it was from 89 and the motor from 86, i had to 2 swap sensors on the far back of the engine on the "coolant block" in lack of better words, because the wouldn't plug into my harness
I don't think that's true (off the top of my head) - *think* the resistance of that sensor decreases as the engine temp gets warmer. If the circuit is open, it'll look like infinite resistance meaning a very cold motor...
86 and 89 injectors may not be the same in terms of indepdance, additionally the harnesses may be different in terms of having a resistor box for said injectors... Wrong injector/resistor box could hurt the injector drivers and/or ecu..
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