no spark to plugs
#3
Registered User
Have you checked your distributor? Plugs? Wires? How do you know its not getting spark.
Download the Factory service manual from the FAQ thread above.
And welcome to Yotatech!
Download the Factory service manual from the FAQ thread above.
And welcome to Yotatech!
#5
Registered User
Have you checked the cap and rotor?
...just askin
Click this, Its the online version of the FSM
http://ncttora.com/fsm/1993/index.html
...just askin
Click this, Its the online version of the FSM
http://ncttora.com/fsm/1993/index.html
Last edited by rattlewagon; 06-26-2012 at 07:19 PM.
#7
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#8
How do I check ignitor on 91 toy v6 truck?
Just registered with yotatech today - need your help. My 91 toy truck v6 4x4 is cranking but not starting, no spark from the coil. The CHECK ENGINE light does not come on when ignition is in ON position which could mean no power to the ECU.
Thanks for immediate reply...
Thanks for immediate reply...
#11
we replaced the ignitor and coil. and stillnot working. took it to a shop and he tried a few things and thinks its in the wiring. sorry for the late reply iv been really busy.
Last edited by 92_yota_v6; 07-11-2012 at 08:20 AM.
#12
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Check the 80 amp fuse (EFI) in the fuse box under the hood. If you need to replace it, DO NOT try to pull it out. You have to remove the bolt holding it in (pull the fuse box first) from underneath.
#14
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The 80amp fuse would take out the starter, so it probably is not that. There is a 30amp fuse that powers the ignition only. Easy to test; is there 12v with key-on at the + terminal of the ignition coil? (and pin 3/black-red of the igniter; they're connected together). Is there continuity from - terminal of ignition coil to to pin 4/black/white of the igniter?
Get a timing light for $20. Much easier and safer than trying to hold a plug wire close to the block, and you're going to need it for sure soon enough.
Last, let's all try to be clear with the vocabulary. We have an ignition coil and an igniter. We don't have an ignitor coil - which one would that refer to?
As roostertail points out, if the check engine light doesn't come on with key-on, you've got other problems to fix first. You're no where near working on the ignition yet.
Get a timing light for $20. Much easier and safer than trying to hold a plug wire close to the block, and you're going to need it for sure soon enough.
Last, let's all try to be clear with the vocabulary. We have an ignition coil and an igniter. We don't have an ignitor coil - which one would that refer to?
As roostertail points out, if the check engine light doesn't come on with key-on, you've got other problems to fix first. You're no where near working on the ignition yet.
#18
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http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...t/descript.pdf (page St-2).
The starter SWITCH is downstream of the fusible link/80a/40a fuses. The switch drives the relay which drives the starter (through the park neutral switch).
So the manual could be wrong, your truck could be wired differently than the manual, or something else. Note that we're not talking about using a "remote starter switch" direct to terminal 50 of the starter; that would work because there is no fuse in the fat wire from the battery to the starter. But 92_yota_v6 talked about "no sparking," which sounded like he cranked the engine by turning the key.
The starter SWITCH is downstream of the fusible link/80a/40a fuses. The switch drives the relay which drives the starter (through the park neutral switch).
So the manual could be wrong, your truck could be wired differently than the manual, or something else. Note that we're not talking about using a "remote starter switch" direct to terminal 50 of the starter; that would work because there is no fuse in the fat wire from the battery to the starter. But 92_yota_v6 talked about "no sparking," which sounded like he cranked the engine by turning the key.
#20
Me too!
This is so wierd finding this topic going right now. I was getting off the freeway minding my own business when it just quits. (92 3.0) It cranks over, pulled a plug wire and no spark, pulled cap and rotor spins so no timing belt issues. I started with the Haynes book and FSM and they say to start with the coil. Do they really go bad just like that?