Broknbonz

send me some pics and price to timmycrf@hotmail.com

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

94danger, ....

I'm sorry you're going on such a long stent without having your rig running... but giving up? I can also understand if it's money's tight or just lost interest, etc., ..but you just did a HG job on a fairly difficult to work on motor.... but you're giving up?

Here's what I would do;

1. Remove that Distributor and have it tested by a respected shop.(YOU HAVE TO rule out where you have a faulty 'NEW PART' or not, ......which happens, VERY often)

2. Before giving up on something I'd worked so hard on, I would start asking around with shops, etc., for which Mechanic is best with Japanese motors and honest and fair(I found one, so can you).... It may cost me 40-100$, but I'D HAVE MY TRUCK RUNNING, or I'd at least an answer, ya know?????

3. With the distributor still connected to the CONNECTOR, pull the CAP off and see if you're getting arcing or at least some charge each time you run the rotor by a point as you have someone turn the motor over.

4. Check for codes? Honestly can't understand why no one has asked you this... But response has been limited to begin with, right? haha.... So, >> I would check for codes.... I bet you have an "RPM SIGNAL" code if you have any codes at all. This would lean me toward the connection between the harness and ignitor or something like that, being disconnected/compromised. Sometimes, just doing a HG job, we could touch or pull 10 different things that could cause something not to work....things that have NOTHING to do with the HG repair, but they're just part of the removal/installation.(I may be missing something as I do not have a huge knowledge base on the 3.0... But nonetheless, CHECK, right?)

I know it's easy for people to say "it has to be something simple".... but while it might not be simple to find, it USUALLY IS something that you will laugh about, later(Trust me, I KNOW ALL ABOUT chasing of ones own tail, 94! And I know you're not laughing now, believe me I do) I know the 22re is different, which I know much more about, but basic combustion works the same way. And you even have your problem narrowed down to SPARK! C'mon, just do a bit more research and you'll find the source, man.

94dangerranger

I have had it parked over three months and had the no fire issuse for over two months . I have had several people come look at it. I have a guy coming to the shop sometime next week and if he can't find it then I guess ill try a computer I have had everything tested its all good but for some reason the plug that goes to my distributor has no hot wires any ideals?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Any ideas............. as to.......... why the connector to your Dizzy has no hot wires???? Hmmm....

Not sure what you mean. The Dizzy is supplied HIGH voltage by the coil, through signal given by the secondary, and as the dizzy rotates, each time a 'contact' is made with the so called "Points" in there, it fires. This is determined by the dizzy rotating off the CAM drive/dizzy drive gear relationship...(Thus, this is why we get the motor to TDC on Compression stroke, then insert Dizzy Rotor point directed at 12'O'Clock and it falls back to #1 contact point/plug wire location in the cap). The ignitor is communicating via the harness and dizzy as to "When should the injectors fire", right?

So, now let's try to narrow it down;(IF I'M WRONG, about any of the following,... PLEASE, GUYS, help him out by tellin me I'm a knob and have it wrong! lol)>>>>

1. You don't have a large power wire or something going to the Dizzy.... Rather, you have a secondary coil that let's the rest of it know when you're 'HITTING THE POINTS'.

2. You have a COIL that supply's the amplified power to the Coil Wire Contact on the Dizzy cap, which is then 'DISTRIBUTED' in a timed manner as each point makes contact with 1-4-3-2....... OK?

3. The distributor runs on a gear at the end of the CAM... so those operations are "mechanical"(but which also then communicate with the rest of the "ECU" assisted components)....which in turn tells the Injectors when to fire as the dizzy is rotating and coming up on a contact point(Secondary communicating with the Ignitor and coil)<<<<>>>>(I AM IN A WAY hoping for someone to tell me "YOU'RE NUTS, that's not right at all!", hahaha... IOW's, ..... I'm running around like crazy today, stopping in to check up on ya, and suffering from TMI-Disease, lately! lol.... SO, ...we'll see, as I said, if someone calls me out on that stuff.

IF I'M CORRECT, ...then you, for some reason, are not getting power TO THE Dizzy via the coil wire. Could be something not telling it to fire or simply .....well, "BLOWN"???????

Do the books tests for the Coil, Ignitor and Dizzy, and post them up here, ok? A lot of times, these things end up being "within the harness compromises".... But let's go through the obvious culprits, first, eh?

94dangerranger

Ok let's put it this way I have put all the components off of this engine on another 4 runner and it fires right up so I do not have a clue to what is wrong with it

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Any reputable shop should be able to diagnose your problem within hours, Ranger........

Honestly, there are tests from the ECU(did you check that? Maybe it got shorted out and fried?) that verify that all the pertinent components are operating properly.... And, I'm sure they would check the obvious things first, but it sounds to me like you have either a problem withIN the harness or the ECU itself. And, as I said, ANY reputable shop would be able to tell you what the problem is within a couple hours.

1 of the first things they'd do is verify there's no juice to any relevant grounds, and that they're all good(including the one that grounds the head to the chassis from the block plate). Then, they'd check for codes(obviously you've done that), and then they would start to run through all the diagnostic tests for voltage and resistance at the ECU and ECU connectors(See, this tells them, while you might find things ok at the component, whether or not there is an issue within the harness and can even narrow things down for them, therein those tests to a certain component or wiring between said component and ECU........ Fhewwwwwwww! LOL. .... Sorry, probably didn't sound clear, but have you done that?

Is the main power wire that goes over the top of the valve cover from the harness to the ignitor connected? (don't be offended, ...it JUST happened to my buddy and that's EXACTLY what was his problem, same symptoms as yours.)

Do you know the wire I'm speaking of, relating to the Ignitor? Large green or whatever color connector that plugs in right at the ignitor? (round connector)

PS> Remember, ...there are instances/occurrences within the ECU system that will shut off spark, such as a short, etc. IF YOU'RE SURE you're getting power TO the ignitor/COIL, ... why isn't there power coming from the coil through the coil wire to the dizzy, where it can then be distributed to each contact/spark plug wire? Seems impossible that it wouldn't then throw fire unless one or the other was not plugged in, where it then is a completed circuit that can then deliver voltage to the Coil via the ignitor pulse. Can you get up some pictures of your set up, PLEASE? Everything, including the connections at the ECU, Dizzy, verified good IGN fuse, Ignitor, Coil,... and tell me, ....is the ground that comes out of the wiring harness near the alternator/ignitor, etc., GROUND to the head via the Power Steering Pump-to-head bracket? there should be a 14Gauge or so ground wire that travels from that area to one of the bolts that holds that steering bracket to the head.

PICS? Might not be able to, but I'm willing to try and help you if you can provide VISUALS of everything?

I wish I could lend a hand in digging this gremlin out, hands on, Ranger.... But the best I can do is walk you through a few things. One thing I'd do, if you've not, is download the FSM from my link, below in my sig. Within the FSM, there are several tests that you perform AT THE ECU, and ECU connectors, which ANYONE with a multi meter can complete.

PLEASE don't think I'm assuming you're doing something moronic, ok? I GET IT, I've had these HORRIFICALLY difficult to diagnose issues. One took me SIX MONTHS OF LOTS OF SPARE TIME to find! lol. But ALL OF US, even the guru's who teach me stuff, have made simple mistakes that cause this kind of issue, ya know? And simply getting all the components to operate another motor doesn't really tell you jack about whether there is a wiring problem within your own harness, right? Unless you swapped out the entire harness, too! hehehe, JK... that would be "oh forget it" time! lol. MAYBE! lol.