New to me 89 4Runner
#121
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quick rundown of what I was talking about earlier
had to rewire the plug going to the fuel sending unit this weekend and thought I'd snap a few pictures of what I was talking about earlier and the hot rod wiring trick someone showed me....
Don't forget the heat shrink!
ends split into "Y"s
"Y"s go together
Twist each side together (clockwise)
Twist both twisted sides together and lay flat against the wire to slip heat shrink over
Don't forget the heat shrink!
ends split into "Y"s
"Y"s go together
Twist each side together (clockwise)
Twist both twisted sides together and lay flat against the wire to slip heat shrink over
#122
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I would expect that connection to have very little mechanical strength.
In house wiring (all indoors), wire nuts screw the wires together. In a printed circuit board, solder holds the components to the board. In automotive, crimping holds the wire to the connector. All time-tested methods for their specific applications.
(Solder alone on loose wires like that is only modestly stronger than simple twisting. There is a reason Toyota, and every other manufacturer, use crimped connectors.)
It's your truck, your choice.
In house wiring (all indoors), wire nuts screw the wires together. In a printed circuit board, solder holds the components to the board. In automotive, crimping holds the wire to the connector. All time-tested methods for their specific applications.
(Solder alone on loose wires like that is only modestly stronger than simple twisting. There is a reason Toyota, and every other manufacturer, use crimped connectors.)
It's your truck, your choice.
#123
Plus without tight contact between the copper surfaces, they would be more likely to corrode.
...In automotive, crimping holds the wire to the connector. All time-tested methods for their specific applications. (Solder alone on loose wires like that is only modestly stronger than simple twisting.
For my truck, I like some mechanical integrity of twisting wires well, then solder to add a little more mechanical integrity and to fill gaps and minimize chance for corrosion, then heat shrinking for a little more mechanical integrity. For connections close to battery, I crimp, solder, brush on liquid insulation and heat-shrink.
Example (My "B" wire upgrade):
I also use parallel that produce copper wire to copper wire contact, not butt-connector crimp that produce copper wire to thin/brittle butt-connector metal to copper wire contact:
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 09-05-2017 at 09:11 PM.
#124
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As far as the wiring goes, I ended up using marine electrical connectors for my repair. Grabbed a handful from the boat shop. Crimp on then heat shrink the inner end. So far so good for my first electrical repair. Time will tell. Thanks for everyone's input. I try to soak in as much knowledge from y'all as my brain will allow. Ray, your pics are top notch. Hurry up and do the electrical repair manual for dummies like me lol.