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Hi all, after a couple years of looking around on and off, I adopted this handsome old dude on Tuesday. 1990, V6, 4x4, manual, with a mere 230,000 miles on the clock.
Seems to be well taken care of. Runs well, drives straight, clean engine bay, exterior, interior, and undercarriage are all in good shape for the age. Some cracks on the dash, unfortunately. The seller only had it for about 4 months before he had to move away, and he unfortunately did not have much in the way of maintenance records from prior owners. He did not seem to know many details about it so I am on my own in terms of gauging what maintenance is due. I am aiming to keep this guy for a long time and would like to take as good of care of it as possible. Planning to use it as a daily driver and modest camping rig for many years to come.
I am in the process of "going through it" and this is what I've found so far, please feel free to chime in on anything here, or on anything I am missing:
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The most immediate thing it needs is an oil change. Seller did not know what viscosity the current oil is, but did say that it was synthetic. I have always heard that synthetic oil has a higher likelihood of causing leaks in older motors that weren't really designed for it, and I have doubts that it has been running synthetic all this time. Would I be safe changing it out with conventional oil? I am planning on using standard 10w40 as I am in the Phoenix area and summer is on the way.
Timing belt was last replaced at 134,xxx miles, so it is due for a new one. I am assuming that I will go ahead and replace the water pump and belt tensioners as well. Planning on oem components here.
Coolant seems to be the Toyota red, it is a consistent pinkish color. There is some sediment in the reserve tank, so a flush probably wouldn't hurt. Replace thermostat as well?
Brake fluid is at the correct level and clear.
The steering wobbles at about 60mph. It does not pull when driving or braking, and it seems like it might be slightly worse on curves. Tires show no signs of broken belts, and I don't see any missing wheel weights. Ball joints? Shock absorbers? The front passenger shock seems to be pretty much an empty shell at this point... not much spring left in it.
The 4x4 is difficult to engage. The seller claims that it is due to a damaged vacuum line. During test driving I did manage to get 4wd working, both high and low, so it does indeed work. It was pretty difficult to get it back into 2wd though.
The parking brake light does not turn off when the brake is disengaged. The truck moves easily with the brake off so it doesn't seem to be sticking, just seems that the light is haunted. Is this a known issue?
Clutch works fine but there is a lot of free play and some impressive squeaking in the pedal, I am planning to get under the dash and see about adjusting and lubing it.
It starts right up, but once the motor engages, at the end of the starting cycle, the starter sounds kind of "scratchy" for lack of a better term. Not sure what's going on here. No starting issues otherwise.
Intermittently has a rough idle. Goes away after driving a bit.
Any recommendations for seat covers? The driver seat is in pretty good shape but does have some tears forming in the usual places, I will probably get a cover on there to try and keep it from getting worse.
Excited to be a part of the club, looking forward to many years ahead.
Congrats and welcome...
it's really hard to beat synthetic oil, if you have no leaks and already running synthetic I'd stick with it. Synthetic brake fluid gets a big plus in my books as well...Normally it's when you make the switch that leaks might occur.
belts, fluids, obvious wear items should be addressed. But the old adage, if it ain't broke don't fix it has served me well.
to me shocks are a HUGE deal they save hundreds if not thousands of dollars doing their job. So put on Bilstein or some other quality, reputable brand.
seat covers are like many other accessories... LOTS of choices and it usually comes down to personal taste and how much you want to spend, do your research... I've found that cheap ones are just that... but, that more expensive ones can still need to be modified and maintained in order to stay in place and look nice.
Have fun good luck.
Last edited by 87-4runner; 04-18-2021 at 05:52 AM.
I've been running synthetic oil in all my trucks since I bought them, and it does great. IF I keep the seals and gaskets, like the half-moons and valve cover gasket replaced at reasonable intervals, they don't leak at all. When I lived in Yuma, and I lived there for nearly 30 years, I used 10W-40. Now I live in Oregon, I use 10W-30. Still synthetic, though. Use the Toyota oil filter. One of the best out there, IMO.
I also got a 3 core, all metal, radiator for both my 87's, and never had a bit of trouble with overheating. When you go to flush the cooling system, yes, replace the thermostat, including it's gasket. You don't know when it was changed out last, and they don't last forever. Better safe than sorry. You will also want to replace, at the least, the main radiator hoses. Once again, a small price for the insurance of new parts.
Same with various belts. Replace them. Better safe...
Plug and wires, too. At least inspect them. Always use OEM plugs and wires. Well worth it.
I'm not the greatest with front end suspension stuff, but I know for a fact that the shocks are an absolutely critical part of the system. Critical for safety. Keep them in good shape. It's actually a big safety thing to have good shocks. Same with the steering stabilizer shock. Pretty important it's in good shape.
I'm not certain about getting your truck INTO 4WD, but often, if it's difficult to get it out, you need to back up about 10 feet in a straight line, and then try to go into 2WD. It unloads the gear train to allow for easier shifting. Especially if you're on a surface with good traction.
When you go to adjust the clutch pedal, make sure you do it according to the FSM. It's amazing the troubles a maladjusted pedal can cause. Beware, though. The bracket the pedal is attached to, that it swings from, so to speak, is known to develop cracks. Make sure the bracket is in good shape! A good flashlight, or headlamp, is important so you can see up in there.
Same with the brake pedal. Do it exactly according to the FSM. It's important to the proper brake operation. If the brakes aren't working properly, check the pedal adjustments, and then bleed the system out. A little air in there can cause all kinds of frustrating problems.
If the brake fluid is nice and clear, you're good to go on that. Just remember that you need to change it out every few years. It absorbs moisture from the air. Eventually, it becomes useless for it purpose. Changing it is easy enough. You just bleed your brake system, one wheel at a time, until it runs clear out of them again, making sure to keep the reservoir filled with nice, new fluid. Do NOT allow air to get into the system from the reservoir running too low on fluid!
Don't forget to bleed the LPSV when you do the rest of the system.
As for the parking brake light: It might be something as simple as the switch adjustment. Make sure the switch makes when the handle is down all the way. It may be either misadjusted, or the switch could be bad. A quick check with your ohm meter will tell the tale.
As to the rough idle, have you checked for codes from the check engine light? There are some that don't set the light, but still show up when you read the codes out. Check for those after a rough idle event. Also, ensure the TPS checks out according to the FSM. Does it ohm out correctly? Is it properly adjusted? Check the connector on it, too. Make sure there aren't any dirty, corroded, or broken wires that are making MOST of the time.
Ok, ok, I shut up now. Welcome to wonderful world of Toyota owners! A very select group indeed
Pat☺
Don't remember where I read the test results, but most engine need to be broken in with conventional oil to achieve best part matching for best performance benchmarks. After the break in, swap to synthetic and continue using synthetic until you start noticing some oil blow-by. If you can't rebuild at this point go back to conventional since it doesn't creep as well. When the conventional begins to blow-by then you have to rebuild.
Thanks everyone for the replies! It seems like synthetic is pretty acclaimed for the 3vze here and elsewhere, so I will plan to just stick with it for now and see how it goes.
Originally Posted by 2ToyGuy
As to the rough idle, have you checked for codes from the check engine light? There are some that don't set the light, but still show up when you read the codes out.
I havent checked for any codes, since the CEL is not on I didnt really consider it. I need to add a code reader to my toolkit.
I do think the shock absorbers need replacing all the way around. Whether they are causing the wobble or not, they definitely feel like they are worn out. Very bouncy.
Dont waste your money on a code reader for this vehicle. All you need is a paper clip or a short piece of wire with the ends stripped. Pop it into TE1 and E1 in the diagnostic plug under the hood and count the flashing CEL on the dash for the codes.
Dont waste your money on a code reader for this vehicle. All you need is a paper clip or a short piece of wire with the ends stripped. Pop it into TE1 and E1 in the diagnostic plug under the hood and count the flashing CEL on the dash for the codes.
That's what I had intended. Sorry for not being more specific. I haven't needed a code reader for my 87 4Runner yet. Just the short-piece-o-wire. Cheapest piece of test equipment I ever used. Must have cost me at least one cent, I think. Maybe it would nowadays, anywho...
My 87 pickup doesn't even have an ECU, so I don't worry about that one at all.
Ha, thats a fun trick for a "code reader". Changed the oil a couple days ago, stuff that came out of it looked blaaaaaaack, No idea how long it was in there. Probably not terribly long, but still. Its a a weight off my mind knowing that the oil is good to go for a while now.
The truck came with some extra FelPro oilpan gaskets, so I was sure to take a good look at the oilpan. Indeed, it seems to be leaking all the way around. I guess Ill add that to the list of things to be done during the timing belt procedure.
Ha, thats a fun trick for a "code reader". Changed the oil a couple days ago, stuff that came out of it looked blaaaaaaack, No idea how long it was in there. Probably not terribly long, but still. Its a a weight off my mind knowing that the oil is good to go for a while now.
The truck came with some extra FelPro oilpan gaskets, so I was sure to take a good look at the oilpan. Indeed, it seems to be leaking all the way around. I guess Ill add that to the list of things to be done during the timing belt procedure.
Did you do a "hot" oil change? Let the truck idle fro 20 min or so to get the oil as hot as it's going to get, and then drain it. It tends to carry more nastyness out when you do it that way.
Another trick I was told about from a bunch of professional mechanics I used to work with, was to get the truck well warmed up, stop it, pour a small Dixie cup of diesel kerosene into the oil filler hole, then run it for 5 min or so, then drain the oil. It breaks up a lot of the crud that's built up in the engine, and carries it out with the oil.
They were built with no gasket from factory? Well thats certainly confusing. These must be aftermarket gaskets, or someone got them by mistake.
Originally Posted by 2ToyGuy
Did you do a "hot" oil change?
Always do! It really bothers me to do an oil change on a cold motor. Ive never heard of the diesel trick, but after having a dirt bike crankcase will up with gas from a leaky carb, I can confirm that it will definitely clean the engine. Never considered doing it intentionally.
One of the reasons Toyotas don't leak oil like other vehicles is because they use Form In Place Gasket (You'll se it here a FIPG) Basically permatex gasket maker. But get it from Toyota. Their stuff is better than Permatex. DO NO USE CORK OIL PAN GASKETS!!!! Well, unless you really like changing them.
One of the reasons Toyotas don't leak oil like other vehicles is because they use Form In Place Gasket (You'll se it here a FIPG) Basically permatex gasket maker. But get it from Toyota. Their stuff is better than Permatex. DO NO USE CORK OIL PAN GASKETS!!!! Well, unless you really like changing them.
Ha, these gaskets are in fact Fel-Pro cork gaskets. I have some ThreeBond 1211, I wonder if that would work well?
I have a question for those of you familiar with the 2nd gen lighting: Are the turn signals next to the headlights on a separate circuit from the others? I replaced the bulbs on both sides but am getting no output. The rear signals and the ones mounted in the front bumper work without issue. I am getting the HYPERSPEED FLASH on both sides, made me think the bulbs were toast. New bulbs didnt do the trick.
Nevermind, I didnt realize those were running lights and not turn signals. They work just fine.
For some reason though I still have the hyperflash on both the left and right turn signals. All the lights on the truck work correctly. Brake lights, running lights, turn signals, and reverse lights all function correctly. Any ideas why the signals are flashing at lightspeed?
Ha, these gaskets are in fact Fel-Pro cork gaskets. I have some ThreeBond 1211, I wonder if that would work well?
Your call, but I don't think 1211 is the equivalent ThreeBond sealer to the oem 00295-00102.
the Toyota 00295-00102 is not overpriced, and the stuff is just awesome. And having a oil pan leak just bites. Just make sure you've cleaned both mating surfaces VERY well and wiped down with the proper solvent or brake cleaner. You want zero oil residue or the sealant will fail.
Looking to get some shock absorbers on order in the near future, the current ones seem pretty tired out. Leaning towards Bilstein 4600s front and rear, anyone have strong opinions one way or the other? I have also heard good things about Rancho and KYB, seems you cant really go wrong either way.
04-17-2021, 10:02 PM
They work just fine.
