New guy, first time 'Yota owner
#21
Registered User
Originally Posted by Asha'man
I was, kinda. I know about the '86-'87 Turbo SR5's, but my knowledge covers the fact that they exist and not much else. How much is different between the 22RE and RTE? I'm coming from experience with the Ford 2.3T here. An n/a 2.3 has brittle cast pistons and lacks a tapped boss in the block for the turbo oil drain, but the blocks, cranks, and rods are functionally identical. One can swap cast pistons for forged, tap a hole in the oilpan for a drain, and pretty much have a turbo shortblock. Swap wiring isn't too complex, either - mild repinning of the stock harness, depending on year, a splice or two, and you're good.
I suppose I should start a new thread to really cover this, but that's the background that I'm coming from. Is the 22RE/RTE similar in those respects to the 2.3T, or are the RE and RTE radically different from each other? And how hard is it to swap a turbo motor into a non-turbo truck? I haven't seen it done in the couple weeks I've been gaining knowledge about this side of things.
Brian
I suppose I should start a new thread to really cover this, but that's the background that I'm coming from. Is the 22RE/RTE similar in those respects to the 2.3T, or are the RE and RTE radically different from each other? And how hard is it to swap a turbo motor into a non-turbo truck? I haven't seen it done in the couple weeks I've been gaining knowledge about this side of things.
Brian
the oil pump is a little different, being a higher flow unit. the biggest difference is the head and pistons. the head has a much larger combustion chamber than the N/A engine, and the cast pistons have a deep dish putting them at around 7.5:1 compression.
the stock turbo ECU won't really handle the fuel delivery for boost over the stock 6lbs or so, most guys will go to an aftermarket programmable system like SDS or megasquirt.
#22
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Littleton,CO
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Originally Posted by F0RSAKEN
BTW, just for everyones information, boosted rotaries > boosted 4's
#23
Registered User
Originally Posted by X-AWDriver
Great motor when tuned properly but I'll take my 2.0 4G63 reliabilty over the rotary anyday. Rotaries are very sensitive to detonation,overheating and sometimes only last 60k miles and rarely past 100k before you need some major engine work.
Another thing you have to remember (sorry for the total thread jack ) is that a rotary is much easier to rebuild than a piston motor. There are no moving parts beyond the rotars, the e-shaft, and maybe a few other things.
Thats all moot though, because when mine dies, Im going to be swapping in an LS1.
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voiddweller
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners (Build-Up Section)
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05-02-2016 09:10 PM