New Beginings - To build or not to build.
#21
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The most important part of any painting job is good prep work. No doubt you have a decent amount of dirt and grease on EVERYTHING under the hood. Spend most of your time cleaning and the painting will be a piece of cake. Simple Green is AWESOME for cleaning just about anything. Go buy yourself a couple bottles of it along worth a couple different sizes of scrub brushes (to make sure you can get in all the little nooks and crannies) and a few scuffing pads to prep the surface after it's clean and go get dirty!
#22
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Thread Starter
The most important part of any painting job is good prep work. No doubt you have a decent amount of dirt and grease on EVERYTHING under the hood. Spend most of your time cleaning and the painting will be a piece of cake. Simple Green is AWESOME for cleaning just about anything. Go buy yourself a couple bottles of it along worth a couple different sizes of scrub brushes (to make sure you can get in all the little nooks and crannies) and a few scuffing pads to prep the surface after it's clean and go get dirty!
I'll be purchasing the Engine Stand tonight and get that settled in first. Then it's time to get dirty!
Will post pics of my progress and when I get stuck on something.
#24
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Thread Starter
Guys.
In the next few days I'll be taking this thing apart. I've downloaded the 1985 Toyota Truck & 4 runner Gasoline Repair Manual and been using this as my reference.
Are there any other guides, or FSMs you recommend that I should download? I feel that what I have is too vague and lacks the detailed information I want since this is my first time.
In the next few days I'll be taking this thing apart. I've downloaded the 1985 Toyota Truck & 4 runner Gasoline Repair Manual and been using this as my reference.
Are there any other guides, or FSMs you recommend that I should download? I feel that what I have is too vague and lacks the detailed information I want since this is my first time.
#27
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Thread Starter
Slowly but surely. Piece by piece My Haynes manual arrives Thursday.
This is what I have for the rebuild kit:
268C/Torkr Cam & MASTER KIT
Since the motor is out, I was thinking about replacing the following:
Clutch
Belts
Alternator (bad)
Fuel Filter
...what else?
This is what I have for the rebuild kit:
268C/Torkr Cam & MASTER KIT
Since the motor is out, I was thinking about replacing the following:
Clutch
Belts
Alternator (bad)
Fuel Filter
...what else?
#28
Go look at this post he did it right Grego92 ... https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...ild-up-251104/
#29
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Anything that should be replaced on regular intervals I would change. Belts, hoses filters, etc. I would want to start as fresh as possible, but I wouldn't go changing sensors unless you check them (which I recommend) and find they are out of spec.
If your clutch has quite a few miles on it I would replace it for good measure. It's not that expensive and much easier too do with the engine/transmission out of the truck. You'll avoid a big headache.
If your clutch has quite a few miles on it I would replace it for good measure. It's not that expensive and much easier too do with the engine/transmission out of the truck. You'll avoid a big headache.
#30
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Thread Starter
Thank you Gents! Gregor has done one hell of a job.
For the throttle body (which i'm having trouble getting off), only 4 bolts right? I was thinking of betting the crap out of it with a rubber hammer but I wanted to make sure there is only 4 bolts. It's really on there.
What do you recommend for "restoring" the EFI manifolds as well as other parts? Pipes, Head cover. I wan to make it look all shiny.
What kind of primer and type of paint I can use for some of these parts? I have some pipes that look nasty and needs cleaning and paint. If I should replace the thing, I will.
For the throttle body (which i'm having trouble getting off), only 4 bolts right? I was thinking of betting the crap out of it with a rubber hammer but I wanted to make sure there is only 4 bolts. It's really on there.
What do you recommend for "restoring" the EFI manifolds as well as other parts? Pipes, Head cover. I wan to make it look all shiny.
What kind of primer and type of paint I can use for some of these parts? I have some pipes that look nasty and needs cleaning and paint. If I should replace the thing, I will.
#31
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Wisconsin
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for future reference you dont have to take the entire upper intake plenum off the lower... just take the entire intake off with the harness, its wayyyy easier plus generally that lower intake section is fine and doesn't need rebuilding or anything. that's what I do when i do 22re's... that way the entire pass. side of the motor is pretty much off and done. just my 2 cents.... and don't forget the 1 long hex head bolt thats on the intake that bolts to the head... its really easy to miss you got to get in there with a long extension...
#32
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Parts cleaners are miracles. If you want them smooth you have a lot of work to do. If ask you want to do is clean them up and paint them thats a lot easier. There's tons of different paint options, but whatever you decide make sure it's a high heat paint. I prefer the aluminum paint, but hey....it's your truck.
#33
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"High heat paint". Got it. Not sure if I want to do sanding to smooth it out and then prime/paint but I have a lot of work to do and figure out.
In the mean time, here is the progress since I owned the truck:
In the mean time, here is the progress since I owned the truck:
#35
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Thread Starter
No bed liner my friend. That bad boy is Rhino Lined.
The only thing is that the seats have to be touched up every now and then. Vinyl paint can only go so far.
The only thing is that the seats have to be touched up every now and then. Vinyl paint can only go so far.
#38
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Thread Starter
Almost ready for the machine shop.
All this crap was around the front of the oil pan, the timing cover and over the semi circular plugs.
Now in my old post I mentioned that my idle was ruff and came to the conclusion that #4 wasn't firing. I found this out by having the motor run and unplugging the wires 1 by 1. It was here where the idle did not change and not shut off.
All this crap was around the front of the oil pan, the timing cover and over the semi circular plugs.
Now in my old post I mentioned that my idle was ruff and came to the conclusion that #4 wasn't firing. I found this out by having the motor run and unplugging the wires 1 by 1. It was here where the idle did not change and not shut off.
Last edited by BK2TFUTURE; 01-05-2013 at 01:27 AM.
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