Cbrown137

Good evening everyone,
I have a 95 3.0 and I’m getting good crank over and if I spray it with starting fluid it’ll run for a few seconds then fall flat on its face.
I had swapped the fuel pump a little while back with a 22re pump. I’m wondering if that pump is not supplying the right amount of fuel or enough pressure.
Does anyone have any thoughts or are there any threads on installing a fuel cell and external fuel pump? I’ve done a decent amount of searching but cannot seem to come across what I’m looking for.

scope103

The fuel pumps are the same 23221-46010. I assume that when you call it a 22re pump, it was a regular fuel pump removed from a salvaged 22re.

"Runs for a few second than falls flat" is the classic sign of a COR-VAF circuit problem. (And discussed on this forum so frequently that there must be hundreds of posts on it). Fortunately, it is the easiest thing on your whole truck to diagnose. Jumper Fp to B+ in the diagnostic connector (that forces the fuel pump to run with key-on). Does it now start and run? You have a problem in the COR-VAF circuit.

Cbrown137

Unreal!!!! 1.5 years of it just sitting connected FP TO b+ boom fired right up!!! Thanks brotha!!

scope103

Whoa! Now you know where the problem is, but you haven't fixed anything yet. Don't drive around with the jumper. If you get into an accident that breaks a fuel line, the engine will stop but the fuel will keep spraying as you desperately try to get out of your seatbelt. I don't think you want that.

Remove the big pipe to the VAF. With key on, pushing the vane open should start the pump (in my garage, I can hear the pump from the diag connector, you might need an assistant). If the pump doesn't start, get your assistant's ear under the glove box. You should hear the Circuit Opening Relay (COR) click with the vane. With that information, you'll need your multimeter to track down whether you have a problem with the VAF (not closing the FC switch on vane movement) the COR (bad coil, or bad contacts), or the wiring in between.

Cbrown137

So what I’ve come to find out is that, when I open up the VAF pipe and move the vein I do not hear the pump nor do I hear the COR. I did remove the COR and by passed it and it started instantly.

scope103

"Vane."

Funny, you haven't mentioned your multimeter. Don't have one? No excuse for that! https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...ter-63759.html You have an electrical problem, and the electrons are just too darned small to see.

"Bypassing" the COR doesn't add much to the jumper test, but it does tell you two of the contacts in your relay socket are okay, so it's a start. Now that you have the COR out, test it. http://web.archive.org/web/201210160...38circuito.pdf (You know the L2 coil works, because the pump runs with the key to STArt. You're testing L1.) Now test for continuity to ground on the Fc pin of the relay socket when the vane is opened. That will test the VAF Fc switch, and the wiring around the VAF.

If you don't get ground on the COR Fc pin, here's how to test the VAF itself. http://web.archive.org/web/201209071...33volumeai.pdf

Electrical work is easy. It's just a matter of starting in the middle and working towards the ends, looking for what isn't working right.

2ToyGuy

Yeah, but if you get them angry, those little critters sure can BITE like a son-uv-a-gun!
I was a radar tech my entire working life, and I can't even count how many times I've been bit by those invisible little buggers...

What I do is split the system in half, give or take a bit, and check "is everything working this far along the system"? If it's NOT, I know the problem is behind my test point, ie: between the beginning of the system, and my test point. Ok, I go about halfway back to the beginning, and check again, so about the 1/4 point of the system. Good? etc. Eventually, you've zero'd in the failed item. After all, there's only so many times you can split a system in half Especially a relatively simple system like these.
Try figuring out the "half-way" point in a radar. Very complex systems, with inputs and outputs all the way along.

Good luck to you!
Pat☺

Cbrown137

Just picked up my multi meter this afternoon! Going to try it out this evening and see what I can see! Hopefully I can get somewhere!!!

Cbrown137

So here is what I have tested the AFM on my truck and a second one I have
on the truck
e2-vs 276
e2-vc open starts with a number then goes to and beeps
e2-vb 220
e2-tha 1.7k
e1-fc no reading at all

spare AFM
e2-vs 300
e2-vc open starts with a number then goes to zero and beeps
e2-vb 289
e2-tha 2.2k
e1-fc no reading at all

scope103

Well, you're making some progress.

First, you CAN'T get "no reading at all." It isn't possible. You can have 12.6volts or 34ma or 60hz or infinite resistance, but you can't get "no" reading.
Second, what do your numbers represent? I'm guessing ohms, but since you don't mention a range, could 276 be 276 kohms? mohms? Big difference.

What you really care about is E1-Fc, which has to be measured with the vane closed, and "other than" closed. Doesn't sound like you did that. I'm guessing that "no reading at all" is something like "0L" (0L means "overload," which for resistance means "higher than you can measure on this scale." So if you're on the 2000 ohm scale, 0L sorta means "infinite" resistance, or "open.") When the vane is other than closed, you should get a "short," which means resistance less than about 5 ohms. (There's always resistance in your leads, so don't expect to get 0.00 ohms.)

This is all in the manual page I cited.

Cbrown137

So I think I’m understanding you correctly, everything was in ohms. And when I turn my multi meter to ohms it shows a 1, when I go to e1-fc that 1 does not change with the vane open or closed it shows that 1 and when I take the probes off it still shows that 1. When I stated “open” I meant open load zero resistance.

scope103

I have about 6 meters (yes, I NEED that many!), and the "infinite resistance" display is not consistent. Based on your clear description, it sounds like your meter shows "1" (with no trailing digits) as "over range." If you're in the 200 ohm range, that only means the resistance is higher than 200 ohms, but for the Fc switch that's "open."

More importantly, whatever your readings are, they don't change when you move the vane. So that's your problem. Now what? Well, you could buy a new VAF, buy a salvaged VAF, or you could try to repair yours. It's not designed to be repaired, but you don't have much to lose. The cover on the VAF is sealed with black elastomer (rubber). If you're very careful you can cut that out, remove the cover, and try to see why your Fc switch isn't working.