Bassmastry101

iTrader: (1)

You mean the part that goes into the header? It shouldn't..I had to bend mine to get it to fit...Might be why my truck runs lean..

awesome!

americanmcss

By brake you mean...? I had to splice in an extension wire, but that wouldnt make a difference since its only a single wire. I double checked all the connections when I put the old o2 sensor back in.

@ the MAN...What kind of reading would I be looking for?

@Toyotech...Would really hate to ruin another set of gaskets but that has crossed my mind. If moving the sensor location doesnt work, Thats my next option. Also I ran the truck without the sensor for a good ten minute drive to work.

@mcfly...not sure why touching the probe would do anything, the catalyst that makes it work is well guarded inside the body.

Hopefully going to start tearing into it again either tomorrow or monday night. I also should start looking for vaccuum leaks, because that would do the damage as well.

americanmcss

very awesome

Bassmastry101

iTrader: (1)

Sorry, what I meant was use ohms to check the wire. Put one end on the wire under the hood that goes to the harness and the other end on the connection to the ECU under the dash...If you don't get a reading then you probably have a break somewhere in the wire.

The MAN

yeah... and it shouldn't have more than half an ohm at the most as far as resistance... any sort of impedance in the wire will certainly affect sensitive devices like an O2 sensor (which has a 0-1 volt reading)... a poor splice will almost certainly cause it

and 10 minutes drive is not enough to determine whether the ECU goes into limp mode or not... these old ECUs are pretty dumb and it might take longer than that for it to figure out something is wrong.... put at least 15 miles on it and see what happens... get that engine nice and warmed up!

ProjectMcFly

I dunno, maybe it's different for Toyotas.

It's been my experience reading DIYs for other makes that you shouldn't touch the sensor and claim it's equivalent to touching a headlight bulb. Maybe that's not truly the case, but anytime I've replaced an exhaust manifold, I've been super careful with that.

The MAN

as long as you don't get the sensor dirty or spill/dunk it in any sort of chemicals it should be okay just laying on a work bench and just picking it up indiscriminately (provided your hands are relatively clean/grease free).... the fastest way to kill an O2 sensor is with antifreeze

94toy22re

Check your timing if that dousnt help richen the afm mixture, I ran with a unplugged o2 sensor for a year with no idle issues and never use a Bosch product stick with denso or Ngk

americanmcss

But the CEL should come on after a period of time, correct?

americanmcss

Oh, and I will be picking up a new ngk or denso o2 sensor as well. Im going to weld on one of the universal 18mm sensor bungs instead of trying to fab up a toyota style one. According to the "toyota guy" at the local parts store, the sensor that fits that will be cheaper than the toyota style.

The question is, which pipe do I weld the bung into. Most of the headers ive seen with sensor bungs show them on pipe number 2 or 3...probably because of convenience.

The MAN

can you put it at the bottom of the collector?

Mr.Utah

Again, I would start with easy stuff first, timing, etc.

americanmcss

Will definately be checking the timing. Would definately like to move it to the collector but If that doesnt fix the problem then I have to move it again.

Bassmastry101

iTrader: (1)

I reread the original post but I just want to double check..When you said move the o2 near the cat..is it now past the fender well under the body? Maybe a pic?

You probably have already checked this, but I know I have overlooked it before. What is you firing order? Supposed to be 1-3-4-2.

metalhed

Bosch sensors dont work well in Toyotas
Sparkplugs.com sell the NGK or Denso replacement
We used a Denso, direct fit replacement
Join Sparkplugs.com on facebook and get a discount

americanmcss

Well I put a new set of plugs in it and adjusted the timing and to my amazement it seemed to do the trick. "smoother" idle (i say that although it could be better) and it seems to have better power and way better throttle response. I will see how it runs in the morning during cold startup.

I know it doesnt need a richer mixture because it was practically spewing unburned gas. After the timing adjust, the exhaust smelled fairly normal since it has no cat.

stucktoy

Hey i just recently installed a header on my plow truck 95 22re pickup is your o2 sensor
in a extention tube if it is remove that little tube and weld that flange to the pipe.
My 22re was running like crap cause of the o2 not getting a proper reading make sure it is in the pipe and this should solve your problem. hope this helps!

americanmcss

Yeah I think this has been my problem. Only a quarter inch or less of the sensor is sticking out into the pipe making it difficult to sniff the exhaust.

stucktoy

well it defenitaly solved my problem. i also noticed with the header you might want to put some heat sheilding tape on the rubber hose mine burnt a little. other than that i noticed a big increase in torque!! good upgrade !! another good mod is a cold air intake!!!

americanmcss

Solved?????

We moved the O2 sensor to the second cylinder header pipe. Of course there were no immediate results. We decided to adjust the idle (shortly after I purchased the truck I adjusted it so that the device that slows down throttle return would no longer be necessary, and It did just fine until the header was on). The free'er flowing air must have caused the engine to run a little easier and idle down to around 500rpm. Advancing the timing made the engine run a little faster/smoother but yesterday I started to notice some nasty spark knock.
So now the truck runs just about as well as it did before the header, minus a slight miss, which is my next project. Hoping its not the injectors and maybe its just a plug wire.

So I think Ive pounded this one into the dirt. My next question is: what is the best way to lean up the mixture in the engine. It is still running really rich and I'd like to solve that issue. Im thinking about adjusting the MAF/AFM or whatever you want to call it. Any advice or tips or tricks?