Need help identifying a simple part
#1
Need help identifying a simple part
My 1986 4runner has a hollow threaded elbow with a coolant hose right next to the thermostat housing. The problem is, I want to replace it with the newer version that doesn't have the 90* elbow like in the below pic. Mine leaks and I can't get it any tighter due to the elbow.
Does anyone have a part number, name, or thread size for the threaded tube that the below hose attaches to next to the thermostat housing?
Does anyone have a part number, name, or thread size for the threaded tube that the below hose attaches to next to the thermostat housing?
#2
Registered User
These specific coolant hoses are very hard to find. I know some members know of some online parts stores that might sell them...
For me, my options are to either bite the bullet and go to a dealer (expect to pay $20) or, pull off the hose and take to your local auto parts store. Often they will have the same diameter hose at a similar shape (usually for another vehicle) that will work.
For me, my options are to either bite the bullet and go to a dealer (expect to pay $20) or, pull off the hose and take to your local auto parts store. Often they will have the same diameter hose at a similar shape (usually for another vehicle) that will work.
#3
Registered User
gamefreaks second option is what i would go with. most hardware stores sell these little coils with a plate in them that you can use to make tighter radius bends than you normally would be able to with just the hose. Prevents it from kinking. I had to use one on my old blazer for a water bypass hose. hose was about 8 inches longand had to do a complete 180 back on itself. worked wonders
#4
Registered User
if you're in California. you have to have that exact specific hose to even pass smog. I'd get the exact hose from Toyota and just pay the price. You wont have to worry about it for a long time anyway.
The following users liked this post:
JoeS (12-29-2022)
#5
I don't need the hose.
I'm looking for the threaded tube that the hose attaches to. It's threaded into the intake manifold and it sticks out right next to the thermostat housing. It's in the below pic circled in green.
Thanks!
I'm looking for the threaded tube that the hose attaches to. It's threaded into the intake manifold and it sticks out right next to the thermostat housing. It's in the below pic circled in green.
Thanks!
Last edited by stabmasta; 01-15-2014 at 08:37 AM.
Trending Topics
#10
Thanks....this part number is exactly what I needed as well. I had to tap thread mine as it is an 85 and the original 90 degree was only pressed in. I used a tapered pipe tap and so far so good.
#12
Tap #
[QUOTE=stanz;52267121]Jared. I need to do this too. What size tap did you use? I have the new nipple on order from the dealer and want to get it installed the day it comes in.
So I took the pipe to a specialty tool shop and they matched the threads to a tapered 5/16 18NC tap. It was around $4 from this shop. I initially tried a 9mm and that was close but it felt too loose. Fortunately I didn't go too far and I had no trouble re-threading to the tapered tap. I did use a thin strip of plumbers tape around the tube and it doesn't leak one bit. I tapped to about 5/8 into the intake and while the tube doesn't thread in all the way, it holds plenty well and is snug. Hope this helps.
JARED
So I took the pipe to a specialty tool shop and they matched the threads to a tapered 5/16 18NC tap. It was around $4 from this shop. I initially tried a 9mm and that was close but it felt too loose. Fortunately I didn't go too far and I had no trouble re-threading to the tapered tap. I did use a thin strip of plumbers tape around the tube and it doesn't leak one bit. I tapped to about 5/8 into the intake and while the tube doesn't thread in all the way, it holds plenty well and is snug. Hope this helps.
JARED
#13
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
[QUOTE=JaredL;52267158]
Thanks Jared! You're talking about a NPT (pipe thread) tap, correct? I'm having a very difficult time finding one in that size. Where did you find yours?
Jared. I need to do this too. What size tap did you use? I have the new nipple on order from the dealer and want to get it installed the day it comes in.
So I took the pipe to a specialty tool shop and they matched the threads to a tapered 5/16 18NC tap. It was around $4 from this shop. I initially tried a 9mm and that was close but it felt too loose. Fortunately I didn't go too far and I had no trouble re-threading to the tapered tap. I did use a thin strip of plumbers tape around the tube and it doesn't leak one bit. I tapped to about 5/8 into the intake and while the tube doesn't thread in all the way, it holds plenty well and is snug. Hope this helps.
JARED
So I took the pipe to a specialty tool shop and they matched the threads to a tapered 5/16 18NC tap. It was around $4 from this shop. I initially tried a 9mm and that was close but it felt too loose. Fortunately I didn't go too far and I had no trouble re-threading to the tapered tap. I did use a thin strip of plumbers tape around the tube and it doesn't leak one bit. I tapped to about 5/8 into the intake and while the tube doesn't thread in all the way, it holds plenty well and is snug. Hope this helps.
JARED
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Francisco East Bay
Posts: 8,299
Likes: 0
Received 841 Likes
on
661 Posts
5/16-18 is not a standard tapered size (it is a standard NC size). http://www.newmantools.com/tapdrill.htm Perhaps he's thinking of a 5/16-18 NC (straight thread) "taper" tap. The thread is not tapered like a pipe-thread, but the tap has the threads cut down at the starting end (taper) to make it easier to start.
Though where you would find such a tap in Japan is beyond me.
Though where you would find such a tap in Japan is beyond me.
Last edited by scope103; 04-12-2015 at 06:02 PM.
#15
pipe tap
5/16-18 is not a standard tapered size (it is a standard NC size). http://www.newmantools.com/tapdrill.htm Perhaps he's thinking of a 5/16-18 NC (straight thread) "taper" tap. The thread is not tapered like a pipe-thread, but the tap has the threads cut down at the starting end (taper) to make it easier to start.
Though where you would find such a tap in Japan is beyond me.
Though where you would find such a tap in Japan is beyond me.
Sorry, I am not all that versed when it comes to specifics of tap and dies...I actually had no idea they had tapered ones. The guy at Quality Tools in Flagstaff, AZ (it is literally a hole in the wall kind of shop) carefully measured the pipe diameter using a digital micrometer and sure enough, the 5/16-18NC tap fit perfectly. Let me know if a picture of the tap I bought would help you and I can post one.
JARED
#16
5/16-18 is not a standard tapered size (it is a standard NC size). http://www.newmantools.com/tapdrill.htm Perhaps he's thinking of a 5/16-18 NC (straight thread) "taper" tap. The thread is not tapered like a pipe-thread, but the tap has the threads cut down at the starting end (taper) to make it easier to start.
Though where you would find such a tap in Japan is beyond me.
Though where you would find such a tap in Japan is beyond me.
I'm sure you're right in that it is a pipe tap and not truly tapered although it does look tapered to the eye.....my eye could be playing tricks on me though.
#18
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Francisco East Bay
Posts: 8,299
Likes: 0
Received 841 Likes
on
661 Posts
Here's a drawing of a "taper" tap:
It's a straight thread, but about the first 7 teeth are ground down to help get it started. Compare it to a "plug" and "bottoming" tap, which you would use on blind holes.
Here's a pic of a "pipe" tap:
Like a "plug" tap, the first 3 teeth or so are ground down. But note that the rest of the (unground) teeth are tapered toward the tip.
With a "regular" straight tap, the tightness of fit is the same no matter how far you turn the fitting (until you mate up the head). With a taper (pipe) thread, the more you turn the tighter it gets; it's actually deforming the steel to make a water-tight joint. (By the way, NPT is "National Pipe, Tapered." There is an NPS thread (National Pipe, Straight), but I have no idea when you would use that.)
So a straight thread tap (NC - National Coarse) would not tap a hole that would get water-tight by screwing in the fitting. But if you used just the first few teeth on a straight-thread "taper tap," you would have partially cut threads. A small fitting (5/16") plus some elbow grease might deform enough metal to make it water tight. But I wouldn't expect to undo and redo that fitting!
It's a straight thread, but about the first 7 teeth are ground down to help get it started. Compare it to a "plug" and "bottoming" tap, which you would use on blind holes.
Here's a pic of a "pipe" tap:
Like a "plug" tap, the first 3 teeth or so are ground down. But note that the rest of the (unground) teeth are tapered toward the tip.
With a "regular" straight tap, the tightness of fit is the same no matter how far you turn the fitting (until you mate up the head). With a taper (pipe) thread, the more you turn the tighter it gets; it's actually deforming the steel to make a water-tight joint. (By the way, NPT is "National Pipe, Tapered." There is an NPS thread (National Pipe, Straight), but I have no idea when you would use that.)
So a straight thread tap (NC - National Coarse) would not tap a hole that would get water-tight by screwing in the fitting. But if you used just the first few teeth on a straight-thread "taper tap," you would have partially cut threads. A small fitting (5/16") plus some elbow grease might deform enough metal to make it water tight. But I wouldn't expect to undo and redo that fitting!
#19
Registered User
There aint no such animal as a 5/16-18 NC PIPE TAP. The tap is actually a standard american SAE bolt thread. 5/16" bolt with 18 threads per inch--national coarse. Pipe sizes start at 1/8" ( which has a outside diameter of OVER 5/16'' .40''pipe vs. .3125''bolt ) and go up as 1/8'' - 1/4'' - 3/8'' and bigger. A 5/16'' pipe does not exist. The taper on your tap is indeed for easy starts in a blank hole. They do make one that size that is straight ( no taper ) for tapping a hole all the way down when it doesn't go through the material. I think we would all like to see a picture of your tap that shows the size markings as well as a picture of the threaded end of your part.
#20
Registered User
Just about any size tapered pipe thread found on a Toyota will conform to one of the Japanese Industrial Standard pipe sizes.
J.I.S. is now largely obsolete, but the J.I.S. pipe thread specs are functionally identical to British Standard Pipe (tapered), or BSPT. BSPT fittings, taps, and dies are easily got here in the US.
No American Standard pipe fittings will fit correctly (NPT), but if you have the correct BSPT tap or die, it is easy to chase the threads on an American Standard thread fitting so that they will fit and seal without buggering up the Toyota threads.
J.I.S. is now largely obsolete, but the J.I.S. pipe thread specs are functionally identical to British Standard Pipe (tapered), or BSPT. BSPT fittings, taps, and dies are easily got here in the US.
No American Standard pipe fittings will fit correctly (NPT), but if you have the correct BSPT tap or die, it is easy to chase the threads on an American Standard thread fitting so that they will fit and seal without buggering up the Toyota threads.
Last edited by millball; 04-13-2015 at 07:25 AM.