Need FEEDBACK about putting a header on a 22RE
#1
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Need FEEDBACK about putting a header on a 22RE
Hello folks... This is my first post so I'll get rigt to the question at hand.
I have a coworker that has a 93 Pickup with the same engine as mine (22RE). About a year ago, he decided to do some "Performance Upgrades" a Cam, New Head, Header etc... Anywho.. he say's that he regrets putting a header on because now he has issues with the bolts backing off within 500 miles. The "mechanic" he brought it to has suposedly tryed "Everything" including new bolts and locktite etc... Has anyone else here had any issues like this with putting a header on the 22RE?
I have just ordered a new High Performance 22RE engine and of coarce that requires a header to be used to run correctly. I would like to AVOID having the same issue if possible. I will be having it installed since it's a project that is a bit outside of my comfort zone. If anyone has had this issue or has any recomondations I'd sure like to hear of them.
Thanks!!
I have a coworker that has a 93 Pickup with the same engine as mine (22RE). About a year ago, he decided to do some "Performance Upgrades" a Cam, New Head, Header etc... Anywho.. he say's that he regrets putting a header on because now he has issues with the bolts backing off within 500 miles. The "mechanic" he brought it to has suposedly tryed "Everything" including new bolts and locktite etc... Has anyone else here had any issues like this with putting a header on the 22RE?
I have just ordered a new High Performance 22RE engine and of coarce that requires a header to be used to run correctly. I would like to AVOID having the same issue if possible. I will be having it installed since it's a project that is a bit outside of my comfort zone. If anyone has had this issue or has any recomondations I'd sure like to hear of them.
Thanks!!
#2
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if he's having that much of a problem, find some place that sells "all metal" type lock nuts(aka stover nuts) in M10x1.25. those will NOT come off on their own. they aren't the easiest to find, often hard to even find SAE so you may have to order them, but it's worth it.
myself, i've never had a problem with using some good hardened lock washers and a regular nut. make sure the lock washers are hardened, regular ones will just cook and lose the springyness that keeps them locked on.
myself, i've never had a problem with using some good hardened lock washers and a regular nut. make sure the lock washers are hardened, regular ones will just cook and lose the springyness that keeps them locked on.
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Thanks for the replies guys! I'm going to see how mine comes out first.. but knowing about the "Stover Nuts" will be a big help and I'll forward that on to him.
#5
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Those stover nuts are put on by toyota at the factory on the exhuast, and they made me curse and swear nonstop the better part of a week while trying to pull the exhaust crossover and manifolds off of my 3vz-e! (Of course they had been on there for 16odd years!) Surprisingly enough, I only had to destroy one of them. I got everything esle off exhaustwise without incident!
As Kyle stated, stover nuts are preferred. If you cant get them, then yes on each stud try those gold colored hardened lock washers (or two,) a conventional nut, and a jam nut behind that nut. Header stay put come hell or high water!
As Kyle stated, stover nuts are preferred. If you cant get them, then yes on each stud try those gold colored hardened lock washers (or two,) a conventional nut, and a jam nut behind that nut. Header stay put come hell or high water!
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 07-07-2006 at 01:17 PM.
#6
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i got the new stud kit when i bought my header i used a flat washer then a lock washer and never had a problem
Last edited by Elton; 11-08-2006 at 11:18 PM.
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