bassbro1

Now you stated that compression was okay, but did you also do a leak down test or a power balance test?

Inferno451

I don't have the tools to do a leak down test, and i've never heard of a power balance test. I don't know if this means anything, but the motor runs as smooth as butter from idle all the way to redline. Just no power.

sinful

usually when the bottom end is tired the symptoms are different...overpressurized crankcase, blow by, burning oil, smoker, falls flat from blowing out the spark plugs with oil etc.

if your compression came out a little low, it shouldnt be a reasson too lose that much power.

a tuning issue with too much or little fuel would immediatly show with bucking, backfiring, sputtering etc. same with spark delivery. but if everything smooth like you stated....the problem really points to a timing issue.

explain how did you adjust the tps and how did you adjust the timing with your own words or exacly what you did.

the tps article is abit confusing so you could have skipped a step.

sinful

unless you are having a valvetrain issue. valves not fully seating, incorrectly idexed cam, bad lifters, bad valve springs etc.

sinful

if compression is decent, freely revs and it seems smooth throughout the rpm.........

i would have added more timing in 5 degrees increments just for trial and error.

Inferno451

Tps was adjusted as follows
-Throttle body removed
-Old TPS removed
-Throttle body cleaned and dried
-New TPS installed with allen screws
-Stop screw adjusted to 1/2 turn screwed in past the point where the butterfly closes fully
-Dashpot adjusted (really doesnt do much now)
-TPS adjusted Using feeler gauge and multimeter attatched with alligator clips, as per the 4crawler writeup.
-Throttle body reinstalled
-Adjustment verified with correct feeler gauge, TPS comes off idle setting with the feeler gauge installed and goes back with it off.


Timing adjustment
-correct terminals jumped in diagnostic port.
-distributor loosened
-motor started
-using inductive timing light and rotating distributor, timing set to 5*BTDC, as per FSM.
-motor stopped
-distributor tightened
-motor started and timing checked
-jumper wire removed
-engine timing jumps up to around 12*BTDC as it should



Anything i missed? It sure does sound like a timing problem, but i really can't for the life of me understand how. I'll run the fuel test tomorrow and try adding some more advance. Any advice is appreciated.

Moonfish

I mentioned the power wire because it can do weird things. Supplies the power to the ECu and everything.

Have you seafoamed the thing? Thought about getting the injectors cleaned? I've never done that yet but it sounds wise on something with so many miles.

There are a few threads about sticky brakes. ?

Is it an auto or a stick?

sinful

how i did it...

stacked some feeler gauges together until i got .87mm. i didnt trust the feeler gauges printed numbers on them so i used a dial caliper to double check the thickness of the stacked feeler gauges. sure enough they were off. after correcting this i went ahead and put the .87 feeler gauges between the stop screw and buttler fly assembly.

then i used the multimeter per instructions.

the most important part was verifying with the multimeter the resistance feeler gauge thickness of .57mm and .85mm.

for .57mm I was able to adjust the tps to 23.2k - 23.5k

with .85mm my readings were infinite

both readings were from IDL and E2 off the TPS

i didnt cared much for the rest of the instructions.

Inferno451

When i got the truck, the wire from the battery to the fuse box was broken in half. I spliced it back together with a butt connector (I know it's a fusible link, but hey). Ran seafoam and a few other things through it when i got it, but no change. It got a thorough cleaning when i deep cleaned the throttle body and upper and lower intake by hand and wire brushed the valves, head, and tops of pistons when i had the head off a few months ago. It's a 5 speed with 100% stock gears and stock small tires. I guess it's possible the injectors are clogged, any easy way to check for that? The fuel filter looks new, it seems like the in tank strainer or fuel filter would clog before the injectors... Also they looked great when i had them out to replace the injector seals when i did the head gasket.

sinful

you have to be careful though becasue by simply overtightening the tps after the adjustments it could still move. so double check after everything is tight.

Inferno451

Sinful- I think i did about the same thing. I think as long as the idle adjustment is good, you really can't adjust much else. The engine has to be able to tell when it's at idle and when it's at speed.

sinful

assuming you had bad or clogged injectors, your truck would sputter at any speed. motor would miss. possibly with some intake backfiring for the lean condition. your spark plugs would also show lean in one or two.

you could try removing the spark plug wirres one at a time while the engine is running to see if you notice any difference in rpm or motor movement.

sinful

i guess you are right. i was just amazed how in my truck the timing seemed dead on but it turned out to be way off after messing with the TPS.

have you try scanning for codes?

ThatGuy1295

Its rare. But the mass air flow sensor can go out.
That could cause some real wackyness.
Just a thought but definitely something to check.

2 ways include. Pluging in a different one from another 22re and road testing it.
Or the harder way, get a voltmeter and check the resistance. All the shop manuals have a section on testing that. I was goin to post it up real quick but am having trouble finding my shop manual. Don't suppose anyone can help me with that.

Inferno451

Sinful- I've tried removing removing plug wires one at a time, it's banging on all 4. No rough running, no backfiring. No check engine light and no codes.

ThatGuy- MAF was originally swapped with one from another 22re. No change. Rebuilt the original one, (which checked out with the FSM) and put it back in. No change. Engine runs flawlessly, just sometimes a little hard to start and no power.

Inferno451

Sorry sinful, i missed one of your posts. I triple checked the TPS adjustment after everything was hooked up. Spot on.

giantjoebot

Your problem sounds kind of like what my truck was doing. I adjusted my TPS, and NOT to specifications, and now have acceleration. Its suppose to be at 81 ohms, and mine is at 77. It took me hours to fine the best setting to get it to run best, since I had to time it after every adjustment. I just kept adjusting it tell it ran best.

The real problem lies elsewhere, I'm sure. Since I have a rough idle, and possible misfires, but at least its derivable for now.

I think the first time I did it, I ran the engine, and turned the TPS, until I heard that noise, and tightened it down.

I honestly don't know if thats the problem you are having, but you might want to give it a shot, since you don't have to buy anything, and it shouldn't take long to try.

sinful

do you always have problems with firing up the engine?

the only thing you havent try doing is advancing the timing just to eliminate that posibility. If I'm not mistaken the MAF, TPS, air temp sensor, temp sensor, o2 sensor could give any wrong feedback to the ECU and affect the timing tables.

ThatGuy1295

Makes you wonder how you would know if the Main Brain was malfunctioning.
Have a friend who had that problem. His 89 22re ran terrible. He replaced EVERYTHING then tried swapping the computer, and BAM! perfect runner. His truck is submerged a lot though. His story motivated me to coat mine in liquid rubber, and electrical grease the plug in's.

sinful

so you may want to just advance it 5-8 degrees ignoring the other variables. who knows your cold starts may go away and your back could sink in the seat from the power gain from a dead stop (without having to go 70mph to feel the difference).