My LPSV mod
#1
My LPSV mod
There's a lot of people on here raised their suspension and found out that their brakes are not the same. This is because the rear LPS valve is limiting the brake pressure going to the rear wheel. You can add a bracket to the end of the arm to raise the arm so it's back to stock level or do what I did.
I use a turnbuckles like this one... http://www.lowes.com/pd_22225-1277-M...%3Dturnbuckles . With a metal plate with two holes, I use one to fasten it to the frame the other for the bolt of the same thread. I added a nut in between so the bolt won't move when you turn the turnbuckle.
I cut the arm of the LPSV and insert it in to the loop. You make the adjustment by turning it.
Anyway, I will do a write up later but here's the pic of it...sorry it's dirty cause I did this a while ago.
[IMG][/IMG]
I use a turnbuckles like this one... http://www.lowes.com/pd_22225-1277-M...%3Dturnbuckles . With a metal plate with two holes, I use one to fasten it to the frame the other for the bolt of the same thread. I added a nut in between so the bolt won't move when you turn the turnbuckle.
I cut the arm of the LPSV and insert it in to the loop. You make the adjustment by turning it.
Anyway, I will do a write up later but here's the pic of it...sorry it's dirty cause I did this a while ago.
[IMG][/IMG]
#5
Registered User
this is my recent mod 2" extended. So far it seem ok.
Personally I didn't like the idea of just defeating the purposed of the LSPV as least not when mine is a DD.
Personally I didn't like the idea of just defeating the purposed of the LSPV as least not when mine is a DD.
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 04-27-2011 at 08:04 AM.
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Hmmm. Where does the ziptie-ing take place exactly? Could someone post up a pic? After my Chevy install, my LSPV was at first leaking, and now my junkyard replacement is definitely affecting rear wheel braking. The new downtravel it has to deal with makes me a little nervous too...
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Downtown Heckronto, Ontario, Soviet Canuckistan
Posts: 1,499
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
If someone uses blocks (dear god why) and the bracket then the operation of the LSPV would remain the same.
I prefer the manual bias valve because you can keep the pressure constant for a given load, whereas suspension cycling would cause the brake pressure to fluctuate with the LSPV.
Last edited by Magnusian; 04-27-2011 at 12:41 PM.
#11
Banned
This is a concern?..lol.. I havent gone extreme wheeling since but my rear brakes exist not. I had a small brake leak in the rear so I crawled under and found the line was leaking at just before where it goes over the fuel tank (from back). cut and repaired... when I was routing and bending tubing to go to the portioning valve another of the three lines busted... I was a bit frustrated. I removed the rear brake line at the master cylinder and plugged it with an appropriate bolt. so I have no rear brakes. I am a carpenter and OFTEN have HEAVY loads in. yet haven't had any bad problems braking (scared as heck in the rain though, even though no probs in the rasin yet, scared ya know) . I have the line and the fittings and repair couplings just not the motivation as I have engine issues. Also my LSPV rod is bent in a few differant directions, is this correct?.. I will get pics asap.
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Downtown Heckronto, Ontario, Soviet Canuckistan
Posts: 1,499
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
I thought there are passenger cars with no rear brakes these days. You gotta remember, your rear brakes actually account for a tiny fraction of your stopping power because when you slow down the weight of the vehicle shifts forward. Ever noticed how when a car is coming to a stop the front-end dips?
#16
This is a concern?..lol.. I havent gone extreme wheeling since but my rear brakes exist not. I had a small brake leak in the rear so I crawled under and found the line was leaking at just before where it goes over the fuel tank (from back). cut and repaired... when I was routing and bending tubing to go to the portioning valve another of the three lines busted... I was a bit frustrated. I removed the rear brake line at the master cylinder and plugged it with an appropriate bolt. so I have no rear brakes. I am a carpenter and OFTEN have HEAVY loads in. yet haven't had any bad problems braking (scared as heck in the rain though, even though no probs in the rasin yet, scared ya know) . I have the line and the fittings and repair couplings just not the motivation as I have engine issues. Also my LSPV rod is bent in a few differant directions, is this correct?.. I will get pics asap.
#17
Registered User
So seems like your two options are 1- Disconnect the arm and hold it in a place where the vehicle thinks it's always under load, or 2- Add a bracket to compensate for your lift.
For someone like me with Chevy's, seems like the disconnect might be better as the different spring rate, length, rednecked shackle setup, downtravel, etc. will be messing up the LSPV's ability to do supply braking power to the rear. Sounds like this could very quickly become a concern in the rocks operating off-camber.
Seems like if you're running an add-a-leaf or other lift using stock or stock-length springs the bracket might be the way to go as it preserves the original function of the LSPV.
For someone like me with Chevy's, seems like the disconnect might be better as the different spring rate, length, rednecked shackle setup, downtravel, etc. will be messing up the LSPV's ability to do supply braking power to the rear. Sounds like this could very quickly become a concern in the rocks operating off-camber.
Seems like if you're running an add-a-leaf or other lift using stock or stock-length springs the bracket might be the way to go as it preserves the original function of the LSPV.
#18
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Cohutta (near Dalton) Georgia
Posts: 669
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
theres a kit that allows you to delete the LSPV and put a manual valve either in the place of it or right beside the master cylinder. that is the BEST option, if you arent cheap like me lol
#19
This is a concern?..lol.. I havent gone extreme wheeling since but my rear brakes exist not. I had a small brake leak in the rear so I crawled under and found the line was leaking at just before where it goes over the fuel tank (from back). cut and repaired... when I was routing and bending tubing to go to the portioning valve another of the three lines busted... I was a bit frustrated. I removed the rear brake line at the master cylinder and plugged it with an appropriate bolt. so I have no rear brakes. I am a carpenter and OFTEN have HEAVY loads in. yet haven't had any bad problems braking (scared as heck in the rain though, even though no probs in the rasin yet, scared ya know) . I have the line and the fittings and repair couplings just not the motivation as I have engine issues. Also my LSPV rod is bent in a few differant directions, is this correct?.. I will get pics asap.
#20
$80 from Dave's Off road:
http://www.davezoffroadperformance.c...ion-valve.html
or you could go this route from Front range Off Road
http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfos...87f97c6a1ab4c0
it mounts at the master cylinder:
personally I like the mount at the master cylinder as the proportioning valve is not exposed where some idiot could mess with it....