my latest project
#63
Registered User
Thread Starter
I plan to run it on a dyno, it just may be a month or so.
I'm going to say that I expect it to go about 140-150hp at the rear wheels.
I've got some loose ends to take care of on this project before I start on the next one (W58) and then I plan to get a megasquirt engine management system which will allow me to fine tune the parameters and get the best performance out of this setup that I can.
Anyhow I think I'll have time to edit some pics and post them tommorow evening.
I'm going to say that I expect it to go about 140-150hp at the rear wheels.
I've got some loose ends to take care of on this project before I start on the next one (W58) and then I plan to get a megasquirt engine management system which will allow me to fine tune the parameters and get the best performance out of this setup that I can.
Anyhow I think I'll have time to edit some pics and post them tommorow evening.
#65
Registered User
Thread Starter
Here's the pics from the head/cam swap.
First I removed the plenum
then the header
then the valve cover (note that at 230k the timing chain guide is not broken)
Then I pulled the head.
I don't have a picture of it off, but I removed it with the lower manifold still attached.
You can also pull it with the plenum and harness attached if you disconnect the harness from inside the cab.
Here's a closer look at the drivers side guide where you can se that it is actually cracked
I made a thread chaser out of one of the old head bolts to clean the threads in the block
in this shot you can see how clean the threads are in the block
after I got everything cleaned up I setup the adjustable cam sprocket to account for the amount of material
I had milled from the head (.054")
first I found a suitable pilot (socket) that the cam sprocket fits on
then I put the adjustable sprocket on and stuck a 6mmbolt through the holes where to dowel goes so that they are
aligned with one another. then I adjusted the adjustable sprocket to align with the fixed sprocket
Then I used a dial indicator and adjusted the sprocket .054" advanced. this should make it so the cam timing is as it would be stock.
Then I set up the new head with the engine builder cam, and valves in cylinder#1 with weak springs so that I could check for valve to piston clearance
this is when I discovered that the cam I had did not match with the specs.
It was at this point that I was stuck until I got a different cam.
So I went home and ordered one from Summit Racing. A Crane cam grind# T20-272-2-10
This is considerably more cam than the engine builder one but as I mentioned before I thought it would match up well with the porting. (and it does )
While I was waiting for the new cam I took my time and detailed things like the pulleys, timing cover, valve cover and oil pan.
the I put the timing cover on
the oil pan on
Once I had the new cam I went back and checked it as before for valve to piston clearance, lift and duration. Everything checked out OK,
so I assembled the head and installed it on the block
Then I put everthing else together
And thus began the whole coolant leak saga as I mentioned before.
I've still got plenty to do but now that it's running I can take my time and get those details sorted out.
As far as video, That's definitely on the to-do list.
then the header
then the valve cover (note that at 230k the timing chain guide is not broken)
Then I pulled the head.
I don't have a picture of it off, but I removed it with the lower manifold still attached.
You can also pull it with the plenum and harness attached if you disconnect the harness from inside the cab.
Here's a closer look at the drivers side guide where you can se that it is actually cracked
I made a thread chaser out of one of the old head bolts to clean the threads in the block
in this shot you can see how clean the threads are in the block
after I got everything cleaned up I setup the adjustable cam sprocket to account for the amount of material
I had milled from the head (.054")
first I found a suitable pilot (socket) that the cam sprocket fits on
then I put the adjustable sprocket on and stuck a 6mmbolt through the holes where to dowel goes so that they are
aligned with one another. then I adjusted the adjustable sprocket to align with the fixed sprocket
Then I used a dial indicator and adjusted the sprocket .054" advanced. this should make it so the cam timing is as it would be stock.
Then I set up the new head with the engine builder cam, and valves in cylinder#1 with weak springs so that I could check for valve to piston clearance
this is when I discovered that the cam I had did not match with the specs.
It was at this point that I was stuck until I got a different cam.
So I went home and ordered one from Summit Racing. A Crane cam grind# T20-272-2-10
This is considerably more cam than the engine builder one but as I mentioned before I thought it would match up well with the porting. (and it does )
While I was waiting for the new cam I took my time and detailed things like the pulleys, timing cover, valve cover and oil pan.
the I put the timing cover on
the oil pan on
Once I had the new cam I went back and checked it as before for valve to piston clearance, lift and duration. Everything checked out OK,
so I assembled the head and installed it on the block
Then I put everthing else together
And thus began the whole coolant leak saga as I mentioned before.
I've still got plenty to do but now that it's running I can take my time and get those details sorted out.
As far as video, That's definitely on the to-do list.
Last edited by Targetnut; 12-15-2007 at 05:50 PM.
#67
Registered User
Thread Starter
#69
Registered User
Thread Starter
right now I'm running 45psi, but that is subject to change as tuning progresses
I've been struggling to smooth out the idle and I foud out why tonight. I have a vacuum leak between the plenum and lower manifold. I'm going to fix that tomorrow.
I was vary concerned about low speed drivability with the bigger ports, valves, cam, injectors, and throttle, but it runs amazingly well. I guess I must have done enough homework and paid attention to enough details.
#72
Registered User
Thread Starter
Last week I installed the W58 trans. I was worried that the old tranny was going to grenade. The "new" trans is a lot quieter, but it still has some noise. I figure I'll go through it in a couple months. The W58 has closer ratios except for 5th which is stretched out a bit further. The closer lower gears works well with the powerband of the engine and the 5th is sweeeet on the highway. It dropped about 400rpm at 70mph compared to the old trans.
I've been driving it back and forth to work and it's remarkably well mannered. A little quirky just off idle and the performance is just a little flat up to about 2500rpm. but really just driving it around you don't really notice much other than a deeper exhaust note, that is until you roll on the throttle.
I've taken a couple people out for rides and uniformly they are suprised at the performance.
I'm expecting a wideband air/fuel ratio sensor and guage on Wednesday. I'm going to order a Megasqiurt DIY engine management kit tomorrow. Once I get that up and running I'm hoping to be able to "tune" away the quirkiness off idle.
Check out the "Teaser Video" thread to get a link to a video clip of the exhaust sound.
I've been driving it back and forth to work and it's remarkably well mannered. A little quirky just off idle and the performance is just a little flat up to about 2500rpm. but really just driving it around you don't really notice much other than a deeper exhaust note, that is until you roll on the throttle.
I've taken a couple people out for rides and uniformly they are suprised at the performance.
I'm expecting a wideband air/fuel ratio sensor and guage on Wednesday. I'm going to order a Megasqiurt DIY engine management kit tomorrow. Once I get that up and running I'm hoping to be able to "tune" away the quirkiness off idle.
Check out the "Teaser Video" thread to get a link to a video clip of the exhaust sound.
#74
Registered User
Thread Starter
Last night I installed a Innovate Motorsports LC-1 wideband air/fuel ratio controller and G3 gauge
This will work with the Megasquirt programable engine management system that I got today.
Of course since the Megasquirt is in kit form it will likely be a couple weeks before I get it up and running.
This will work with the Megasquirt programable engine management system that I got today.
Of course since the Megasquirt is in kit form it will likely be a couple weeks before I get it up and running.
#76
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Denver, Co
Posts: 251
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Targetnut, since you are going with MegaSquirt have you though of going to a speed density system and ditching the AFM all together?
Even the best flapper door AFM is a huge intake restriction and MegaSquirt can run as speed density with just the addition of an some-what inexpensive GM Air Intake Temp sensor (that conviently fits right in the cold-start injector port). There is also a guy on this forum that has gotten his 22RE running with MegaSquirt as speed density. Granted, he had a stock motor but it would give you a starting point with fuel and timing maps.. His username is dcg9381. Very smart guy.
I went speed density with MegaSquirt and I'm very happy. Down with flappers!
You are doing fantastic work. I really like how you are taking every single aspect on yourself down to the flow bench.
And your truck is sweet!! I'm normally not a huge fan of oranage vehicles but I love it!
I still think it needs a turbo though. Imagine over 20psi on that thing! You'd need drag radials out back..
Even the best flapper door AFM is a huge intake restriction and MegaSquirt can run as speed density with just the addition of an some-what inexpensive GM Air Intake Temp sensor (that conviently fits right in the cold-start injector port). There is also a guy on this forum that has gotten his 22RE running with MegaSquirt as speed density. Granted, he had a stock motor but it would give you a starting point with fuel and timing maps.. His username is dcg9381. Very smart guy.
I went speed density with MegaSquirt and I'm very happy. Down with flappers!
You are doing fantastic work. I really like how you are taking every single aspect on yourself down to the flow bench.
And your truck is sweet!! I'm normally not a huge fan of oranage vehicles but I love it!
I still think it needs a turbo though. Imagine over 20psi on that thing! You'd need drag radials out back..
Last edited by Turbo4Runner; 01-04-2008 at 06:03 PM.
#77
Registered User
Thread Starter
I'm going to set up a ram air port and with a freeflow air filter and the 70mm throttle and large plenum I would like to achieve higher than atmospheric pressure inside the plenum at 70mph and above. Not quite supercharging but should be good.
#78
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
so which w58 is better, if they are even different. an 87 supra non turbo or one from an 81-86 celica supra? they are both in the junkyard right now. and do you know if either of those had bigger brake boosters/masters or clutch masters?
#80
Registered User
Thread Starter
Right now I'm only getting about 20mpg driving back and forth to work, which is probably like 25% highway 75%traffic
Before I changed anything it was about 25mpg and after changing to 4.10 gears it was about 22-23mpg
I did a highway trip of about 90miles and got just over 24mpg
I'm pretty confident that it'll be better with the megasquirt.
Before I changed anything it was about 25mpg and after changing to 4.10 gears it was about 22-23mpg
I did a highway trip of about 90miles and got just over 24mpg
I'm pretty confident that it'll be better with the megasquirt.