lovetharunner

I was actually planning on going to Caldwells on Monday to drop the head off. Why do you not recommend going there? Do you have a better recommendation?

rpij137g

That's a tough situation. My question would be, is there enough thread engagement. I certainty can't say. The torque requirement for a head bolt is not large- 58 ft-lbs.

If you have a good 1/2 inch of thread, i would continue the build. Clean up the surfaces, run a tap through the head bolt holes, and bolt the head on. Torque it to spec. If you can torque it to spec, I would run it.

You could buy a used 22RE for 200-400$ (full engine) and drop it in. But again, if you have thread engagement and can get the torque requirement, why bother. It will probably be fine. The worse that happens is you have to get a new engine anyways and you're out some time and gaskets.

My vote: BUILD IT ANYWAYS!

lovetharunner

I am worried. If a piece of the block broke a way like that I am thinking there could be a deep internal crack. This crack could have been the original culprit for my coolant leak if it goes into the cylinder wall. Guess I will have to turn the crank and get piston #4 down so I can take a look.

Should I try pouring some water into piston #4 to see if any water leaks out?

I stated in my first post that I am not too mechanically inclined. I am worried that I am quickly getting over my own head.

rpij137g

Agreed. The first head gasket job is a big complicated deal. There could be a deeper crack. With just seeing the picture, I wouldn't expect so. I actually had a cracked block, and the coolant and oil would mix within minutes. As you said, the oil was relatively clean. I have had cast iron parts shear like your block.

How do you feel about bolting the head back on after taking a look at the cylinder wall? My brother and I did his head gasket 3 years ago and one of those head bolts did not go in right (there was crud in the threads). We said "heck with it," and ran it anyways. Worked fine.

Those threads get really mucked up and not cleaning them out will result in inaccurate torque measurements. For 6$ NAPA will sell you the tap.

xxxtreme22r

I don't think there was a crack there to begin with, what I believe you might have done is actually bottom out that bolt and pushed the base of the hole out. Like stated above you "might" be ok as long as you have about half the thread left in the hole for the bolt. But you may have cracked the rest of the threads along with it which would be a bad thing. In which case would still be repairable at a machine shop, but the whole engine would have to come out. They can fill the hole and re-tap it. At what cost, I don't know.

Just an FYI some of those bolt holes are actual oil passages, but this doesn't appear to be one of those holes based on the lack of carbon build up on the head bolt. If it were, then running it like that wouldn't work as you'd have a really bad oil leak without having it repaired.

And for further reference to ya, never use a bolt to clean out a hole unless you have cut a relief cut in the threads of the bolt (which renders the bolt useless BTW) for material to escape the hole. Or use a thread chaser or tap to clean them. Preferably a thread chaser. Taps really shouldn't be used to simply clean a hole out.

lovetharunner

I think I am just going to go forward with the rebuild anyway. I'll find out when I toss the head back on if I can re torque the bolt. It seems to be able to thread just fine when I run the bolt back and forth.

Anyone else have any recommendations?

TylerH

My experiance with them. I was suggested there by my local mechanic because i knew my diff was going out. It howled badly. I at the time could not find a 4.10 diff under $400. Because i was going to just do it myself. Anyways i took my truck there they told my what i already new. My pinion bearing was toast. They quoted my just under $500 so i said hell with it and had them do it.

Took it there they did it in about a day, they called me told me it was done. I asked them exactly what happened the guy on the phone said if i came in the mechanic would explain it to me. Im kinda anal about this stuff cause i used to turn wrenchs. I also asked them if i could have the old diff because i was planning on having it rebuilt with 4.88's when i lift the truck. The guy on the phone said yes and they will show me on it what failed.

So i show up there about noon, it was slow and not many people there. I walk up to the cashier give him the money and i ask him if i could talk to the mechanic. He gives me a very rude and stupid look and says he's busy. Ok understandable. Then i ask where is my old diff, he again looks at me stupid and says in the metal bin out back. I am kinda pissed at this point and i say well go get it for me. He says his back is bad so i would have to go get it. So i make him walk me in back and show me where it is. The person who put in there obviusly didnt set in nicely btw. Im in normal clothing cause im not prepared for this. He didnt even offer to help my carry it to my truck. Its not that is was heavy but i was on the other side of the parking lot. So i hold it against my chest get covered in stinky 90wt and carry it to my truck, Put it in the back and leave.

I later that night inspect there work. They used an over amount of RTV. I dont know if there is a gasket thats suppost to be there but there isnt. And the whole diff looks wet like it got dipped in oil. So i watch it for a week or so and it is leaking. Like 3 or 4 drips every day. So i think, hey maybe they didnt tighten the drain plug, sure enough crawl under there and finger loose. I never called and bitched cause im not like that. But i was really disopointed. But its been good since. Has been about 20,000 miles ago.


Thats not the only bad review ive heard come from there btw. I dont know any other places off the top of my head that do that kinda of work. But maybe go to Sun automotive, or kaloski* car doctor and have them sugest a place. If not they may do it. Sorry not sure.

lovetharunner

Weekend update:
I ended up needing to buy a new head. Caldwell's said it would take about $170 to clean up my old head, adjust the vavles, weld a hairline crack, and true up the bottom. It was $250 for a new head so I went that route.

Got the OEM HG on and then dropped the new head. All 10 head bolts torqued down just fine including the one that blew out from the outside. I ended up coating the outside of the hole with JB Weld.

My little helper on his lunch break:


I think I got my distributor lined up correctly. This tooth was the closest to the "1" spark. This also seems to be where others on this forum aligned the distributor to TDC.


Minor setback. Turns out the fuel line to the fuel rail isn't as flexible as I thought. I am not even sure where to get a new one. Going to go talk with the Toyota dealership tomorrow.


On that note, does anyone know how important it is to get the holes on the inside of the screws lined up with the holes in the fuel lines. I noticed that both screws that hold in either side of the fuel line have a hole in the thread for the liquid to pass through...

Also, does anyone know if these half moon rubber gaskets are suppossed to sit flush with the head? The new ones stick up pretty high.


I bought a new gasket to go around the valve cover. Did you guys use any sealant around the valve cover gasket?

Joshua

jeetS

you use RTV on the half moons. The FSM shows around the curved part and also the corners...but i did all way around the whole thing.

Yes they do sit up that high, then when you bolt the valve cover on it squishes it down.

As far as the fuel line banjo bolts.... You just tighten them up, you dont have to worry about the holes lining up...If thats what you are asking...

xxxtreme22r

I don't remember my half moons sitting up that high. I only used RTV on the underside of the half moons and on it's edges. Cannot remember what the FSM says, but I know mine doesn't leak and I didn't use RTV on any of it.

Tubbyfatty

Bummer about the fuel line, no suggestions for ya on that one haha.

I like that picture of your son (guessing your son), deff. have to show that to him when he grows up.

lovetharunner

That's exactly what I am asking. There are banjo bolts on either side of this fuel line (one at the filter and one on the rail). I noticed there are holes in the bolts and just want to make sure they don't need to line up with the holes in the fuel line.

I ended up only being able to find this part at the dealership. $134.41 Ouch. If I had the time I would have looked around at a few pick n pull yards but I really want to be done with this thing.

Looks like I should be able to fire this thing up by Wednesday evening. Yipee!

TylerH

I think you could find that fitting if you went to a place that specializes in fittings. Parker? Dont know if theres one in this area thou... Just hit up some yards. That yard i suggested in the PM would definatly have it. Theres that yard off 28th or 30th across the tracks past the mill. I know they have a few.

toyospearo

Those half moons sit up high like that until you torque down the valve cover and then they seat in there just right. I wouldn't worry about those.
In that above picture your cam dowel doesn't look in the 12 o'clock position, it looks a few degrees to the right. Are you at TDC 0 on the pulley and oil pump?? If you are at 0 TDC your cam timing looks like it might be off.

Also, sanding the top of the block once you get all the old gasket off is safe as long as you use a pice of square tubing with 320 grit sandpaper wrapped around it. Make sure when you sand you lay it across the top of the block on both sides and carefully go back and fourth. Put towels in the cylinders and tissue paper in the oil galley holes and head bolt holes. AND most important when you are done and things are shiny make sure and blow all the gunk out of the head bolt holes with a good shot of air! Apply a little alcohol on the surface of the block to clean up all the oil and cleaner.

lovetharunner

That is a good question. My crank is currently at 0 TDC. I thought that the cam looked off, but I ended up putting it back EXACTLY where I found it. I put some marks on the cam shaft and head so that I could get it lined back up. It does have an after market cam that the previous owner put on. I wonder if the timing needs to be a little advanced because of that?

What do you guys recommend as far as getting it timed? Did most of you do it yourself by buying your own timing light? Did you guys take it to a mechanic to do the timing?

toyospearo

If you are talking about cam timing thats a whole different deal. On my 82 I ended up buying a cam degreeing wheel and finding absolute TDC and then adjusting the cam adjusting gear until I found the best performance.
If you don't want to go through all that just make sure you are at TDC 0 on the pulley and the number one cylinder is all the way up then make sure that cam dowel is at exact 12 o'clock and or relative (lined up) to the little arrow on the rocker arm assembly. That should get you in there pretty close.

TylerH

If its to much of an aggresive aftermarket cam the timing light wont work correctly.

xxxtreme22r

Lift and duration has nothing to do with ignition timing. This is because lift duration etc etc has no affect on the cam gear rotation. It will not affect timing light. What it might mess with though is vacuum advance on a carb truck. Especially if the overlap is large. This is what causes lopey idles. That is why alot of chevy guys running 3/4 cams or bigger do not run with any vac advance at all and just use mechanical advance.

lovetharunner

OK quick update:
I got it fired up tonight. It would start and idle for about 15 seconds and then stall out. After about a dozen starts I killed the battery. I realized after the fact that I forgot to plug in the sensor to the AFM. I am thinking this had something to do with the stalling out.

It ran pretty rough at first. I tried moving the distributor back and forth to see if that would help and it did a little. The motor didn't sound right to me. Almost sounded like a diesel. I am wondering if toyospearo could be right about my cam timing. I noticed a little bit of white smoke between starts and could still smell coolant. I am really hoping that this is just remnants from before and will just burn off.

I was really hoping to go to bed feeling victorious! Still feeling a little defeated right now...

jeetS

It was just the remnants of the coolant. And yes not plugging in the AFM will cause the truck to not run...tho im a bit confused that it even started! I thought the AFM triggered the fuel pump.

and the sounding like a diesel is probably the valves needing an adjustment...

dont feel defeated...youre 95% finished!