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Hopefully I'm posting in the right spot, I've only ever lurked and read this forum. So i have a Toyota motorhome with the 3vze. Had to do a motor swap, and I took the new motor out of another 3vze. Now my situation has stumped all my mechanic friends. My idle is high in park, and it doesnt drop down like it normally does after a moment, it just stays that way. It goes really high in neutral, and drops down the eay it should in drive, until I'm actually driving, in which case it sounds like it's over working itself when I accelerate, it jerks occasionally, loss of power. So I'm getting code 71 for the EGR. One guy says it's the EGR modulator; I took it out and did a visual inspection of the hoses running to it and they look squeaky clean. Another guy noticed that the new EGR that was put in doesn't even have a spot for a temperature sensor, and it appear my old one had one because my temp sensor plug is chillin there with nothing to plug into. I read these have 4 different EGRs. Now my confusion comes from, one guy claims the temp sensor doesn't matter at all and it's my modulator; one guy says it's 100% the temp sensor and I need to get an EGR with one; and the 3rs guy says it may be the reason I'm getting code 71, but it's not what's causing these idle and loss of power issues. 1st pic is my EGR, 2nd is my friends on his 4runner, and 3rd is the plug that I have with nothing to plug into. It seems there's not even a place on my EGR to add one. I was told it's possible I could trick it by using a resistor but I'm hoping I can do it the right way instead, I'm going to have to pass emissions soon.
Welcome to YotaTech. millball's description (not surprisingly) of the EGR is correct.
The reason you have code 71 is because nothing is plugged into your harness (your ECM sees that the temperature of the EGR has not increased as it "should.") You can defeat the code with a resistor (you're lying to the ECM and telling it the right temperature has been reached), but if you're in someplace that requires that sensor (like California) you won't pass visual inspection without the sensor. If your jurisdiction doesn't require the sensor, you're in luck. (You'll still need the resistor, as no one will pass you if you have the CEL.)
As far as your idle is concerned, it could be an issue with the EGR, but there are many more likely explanations. First, make sure the throttle plate is closing. Just push on the arm to see if your idle will go down. If it does, you probably have something sticky in the linkage. Also, check your ignition timing. Easy to do, and having the timing off will cause lots of problems.
If your jurisdiction doesn't require the sensor, you're in luck. (You'll still need the resistor, as no one will pass you if you have the CEL.)
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that isn’t the case. there is at least one jurisdiction where a CEL being on does not result in a failed inspection. it might be true for most, however.
Welcome to YotaTech. millball's description (not surprisingly) of the EGR is correct.
The reason you have code 71 is because nothing is plugged into your harness (your ECM sees that the temperature of the EGR has not increased as it "should.") You can defeat the code with a resistor (you're lying to the ECM and telling it the right temperature has been reached), but if you're in someplace that requires that sensor (like California) you won't pass visual inspection without the sensor. If your jurisdiction doesn't require the sensor, you're in luck. (You'll still need the resistor, as no one will pass you if you have the CEL.)
As far as your idle is concerned, it could be an issue with the EGR, but there are many more likely explanations. First, make sure the throttle plate is closing. Just push on the arm to see if your idle will go down. If it does, you probably have something sticky in the linkage. Also, check your ignition timing. Easy to do, and having the timing off will cause lots of problems.
I'm not sure how strict Arizona's emissions are; I had to put this into salvage and I'm trying to get it re-registered. Thought about just trying a resistor. I put in the modulator and i notice it running better.
also, thank you for the info about the other fixes.
THANK YOU I'm surprised nobody I knew really knew the answer to that. ...
And now, you "know" several hundred (otherwise anonymous) folks who do know the answer about a lot of 4runner/pickup stuff. Let us know what you find; that is how you "give back."
I'm not sure how strict Arizona's emissions are; I had to put this into salvage and I'm trying to get it re-registered. Thought about just trying a resistor. I put in the modulator and i notice it running better.
also, thank you for the info about the other fixes.
Arizona emissions laws are not uniform.
Pretty sure that only Maricopa and Pima counties require emissions testing. Others do not. I am fortunate to live in an AZ county that does not require emissions tests.
I don't know for sure what is examined when a machine is re-registered after salvage. If outside the aforementioned counties, they probably only examine and confirm VIN's.
Please let us know your experience with the AZ motor vehicle dept.
I would say that I have seen factory made blind terminators on wiring harnesses that were installed on machines that to not require EGR temp input. I assume they posess a resistance that will satisfy the ECU.
I thought that I posted on this point in the past, but I can't find it now. Somewhere in my spares, I possess one of these plugs.
I'm assuming maybe you still have the old valve and sensor and it will swap with that one?
I sold the motor to this guy, he said we could swap but I couldn't tell from the pics he sent me of the previous one if there was a temp sensor on that one either. Would be a huge pain in the ass to remove my EGR, find a ride all the way out to his place (this being my only vehicle and I don't know anyone here) and remove the other one. If it comes to that I might but I think I'm going to try to use a resistor, now thst I know it's not causing other issues.
And now, you "know" several hundred (otherwise anonymous) folks who do know the answer about a lot of 4runner/pickup stuff. Let us know what you find; that is how you "give back."
what resistor would i use, one on the low temperature range say 47K to 82K, the mid temperature range say 10K to 20K, or the high temperature range say 2K to 4.7K?
Pretty sure that only Maricopa and Pima counties require emissions testing. Others do not. I am fortunate to live in an AZ county that does not require emissions tests.
I don't know for sure what is examined when a machine is re-registered after salvage. If outside the aforementioned counties, they probably only examine and confirm VIN's.
Please let us know your experience with the AZ motor vehicle dept.
I would say that I have seen factory made blind terminators on wiring harnesses that were installed on machines that to not require EGR temp input. I assume they posess a resistance that will satisfy the ECU.
I thought that I posted on this point in the past, but I can't find it now. Somewhere in my spares, I possess one of these plugs.
yeah I'll fill you in on how easy it is to re register... from my understanding i have to pass emissions to be deemed road worthy again. It's been really confusing and now because of COVID-19 they're not open so I have been messaging the DMV. I think I'm going to try a resistor; when you say blind terminators what do you mean? I think I could just buy a temp sensor to attach and mount somewhere, but comparing $100 for a temp sensor vs using a resistor, the resistor is definitely cheaper.
yeah I'll fill you in on how easy it is to re register... from my understanding i have to pass emissions to be deemed road worthy again. It's been really confusing and now because of COVID-19 they're not open so I have been messaging the DMV. I think I'm going to try a resistor; when you say blind terminators what do you mean? I think I could just buy a temp sensor to attach and mount somewhere, but comparing $100 for a temp sensor vs using a resistor, the resistor is definitely cheaper.
A 'blind terminator' is a factory plug that goes into the harness connector that would otherwise be plugged into the temp sensor, if one existed.
... comparing $100 for a temp sensor vs using a resistor, the resistor is definitely cheaper.
The temp sensor wouldn't do you any good unless it was properly plugged into the EGR valve. If your jurisdiction requires the temp sensor, then you know you're going to have get the sensor and the correct valve. But if you can get by without the sensor, then the resistor is okay.
Originally Posted by millball
A 'blind terminator' is a factory plug that goes into the harness connector that would otherwise be plugged into the temp sensor, if one existed.
That "factory" connector (same as the one that comes with the temp sensor) would have the resistor already soldered into it. I'm sure you could locate such a connector body somewhere in the world, and make such a blind connector, but you don't really need to go that far. Here's the FSM on the temp sensor; you can figure out what resistor you want from that: http://web.archive.org/web/201003261...00egrgaste.pdf
The part number on a connector body (if that's where you found it) is usually the part number of the plastic part. To turn it into a "blind terminator" you'd just need the fairly standard pins and a resistor. My usual sources indicate that part number is no longer available (not surprising).
The thermistor is NTC (the resistance goes down with increasing temperature), so zero ohms would be "blisteringly hot." If that convinces the ECM, well that's fine. It's very good to know which resistance(s) work.
06-12-2020, 11:35 AM
