misfiring only when warm and only when idling?!
#41
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New here so im sorry if im posting in the wrong area. Recently got a 91 toyota pickup dlx 155000 miles for 1000 bucks. Was driving it for about 3 months until one day it over heated and a hose blew off. So i replaced the hose and did a full system flush with the radiator. Next day i was ready to go to work and was backing down my hill when it shut off, no hesitation just shut off. Had it parked for 2 days, got a fine for parking against traffic then my father in law towed me back to my house. Went to start and it wouldnt start. It would crank but not turn over. got some codes and got starter signal issue and knock sensor. So i got a new coil and ignition coil, and new knock sensor and still wouldnt start. So i pulled the valve cover off and low and behold my distributor rod was pulled out so the gears werent contacting eachother. got a new distributor and it started right up. But now i have an issue of a surging idle... Got the codes 31 and 24. Cant seem to figure it out. Can anyone help
Idle issues: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...65idleando.pdf
#42
Here is the information on the vacuum readings:
Intake A/C off = 18"
Intake A/C on = 14"
Exit A/C off = 0"
Exit A/C on = 5"
I guess we've got some type of blockage here, reducing the vacuum coming out of the VSV. Is there a way to clean it out, or do I just need to replace it?
Intake A/C off = 18"
Intake A/C on = 14"
Exit A/C off = 0"
Exit A/C on = 5"
I guess we've got some type of blockage here, reducing the vacuum coming out of the VSV. Is there a way to clean it out, or do I just need to replace it?
the other thing to try is to put it all back together, turn the ac on, and try adjusting the idle with that adjuster that I linked to earlier... just keep track of how many turns you are in/out, so if it doesn't make a difference, you can put it back where it was.
#43
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Here's the latest update. I read on a thread where someone suggested cleaning the VSV, and then spraying WD-40 afterward, to lubricate the switch. I pulled out my CRC Throttle Body & Air-Intake Cleaner but noticed it isn't recommended for use with plastics. I then looked at my CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner and it stated it is fine with plastics, so I used that and then sprayed WD-40 afterward. The result was a drop from 5" to 4" of vacuum, along with slight increase in roughness. I figured the VSV was shot, so I bought a used one (part #184600-0510) on EBay for $20.95, including shipping. Today, I drove 15 miles on the freeway to get to my office (A/C on all the way). When I got off the freeway, I noticed the truck idling very smoothly at 750RPM. To tell you the truth, I no longer have anything to complain about regarding my truck. It runs smooth as silk. Tomorrow, I'll check the vacuum to see if there has been a change (I'm assuming there has). When I get the replacement VSV, I'll exchange VSVs and then measure any difference in vacuum, reporting the results back here.
I'm still waiting for a response from Ansoil regarding their thoughts on the Power Foam thread. I'll use Power Foam on my intake. I also plan to use Redline SI-1, which contains the highest quantity per dollar (based on manufacturer MSDS) of the critical fuel-system-cleaning compounds known as polyether amines (PEA). I'll also use Amsoil's Engine and Transmission Flush. I think these steps will do wonders on a 300K mile engine that has never been cleaned inside (other than Techron).
I'm still waiting for a response from Ansoil regarding their thoughts on the Power Foam thread. I'll use Power Foam on my intake. I also plan to use Redline SI-1, which contains the highest quantity per dollar (based on manufacturer MSDS) of the critical fuel-system-cleaning compounds known as polyether amines (PEA). I'll also use Amsoil's Engine and Transmission Flush. I think these steps will do wonders on a 300K mile engine that has never been cleaned inside (other than Techron).
#44
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I can't say the cleaning fixed the problem. Though idling with A/C on is higher than it was before, it is lower than the 750RPM I experienced after driving 15 miles, and I am only back to 5" of vacuum. The replacement VSV is supposed to arrive by Thursday, so I'll report back when I test that one.
#45
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I just got the replacement VSV, and it only measures 4" of vacuum on the output side. I'd appreciate if people who don't have the problem with your 22-RE not idling up when the A/C is activated check the vacuum on your VSV output side (closest to the VSV body) to see if 4 or 5" is normal. I adjusted my idle up adjuster in both directions and experienced no change. Maybe it is my idle up controller that is bad. Can those be cleaned? How would I test it? It does raise the idle when the full vacuum from the intake goes into the idle up controller. What suggestions do you have?
#46
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I finally got a response from Amsoil regarding their Power Foam. What they recommend is to make sure the Power Foam doesn't reach the Mass Air Flow Sensor or O2 sensors. They say no other internal components are affected by the Power Foam. I'll replace my O2 sensors with my old ones before I clean the plenum. I'll also disconnect the air hose to the throttle body and bag off the end, when the plenum is soaking (with engine off), so the fumes don't go back into the Mass Air Flow Sensor. They also say it would be a good idea, but not necessary, to replace your engine oil after cleaning out the plenum. Please note... you can't legally buy Power Foam in California, so you can buy it through EBay, but not Amsoil.
As far as my idle up issues go, there was no difference between the new and old VSV, and cleaning the idle up actuator/diaphragm didn't change anything, so I guess I'll need to replace my idle up actuator/diaphragm. Replacement part numbers for these parts are: 88606-35020 for the diaphragm and 88690-89132 for the valve.
As far as my idle up issues go, there was no difference between the new and old VSV, and cleaning the idle up actuator/diaphragm didn't change anything, so I guess I'll need to replace my idle up actuator/diaphragm. Replacement part numbers for these parts are: 88606-35020 for the diaphragm and 88690-89132 for the valve.
#47
Registered User
I finally got a response from Amsoil regarding their Power Foam. What they recommend is to make sure the Power Foam doesn't reach the Mass Air Flow Sensor or O2 sensors. They say no other internal components are affected by the Power Foam. I'll replace my O2 sensors with my old ones before I clean the plenum. I'll also disconnect the air hose to the throttle body and bag off the end, when the plenum is soaking (with engine off), so the fumes don't go back into the Mass Air Flow Sensor. They also say it would be a good idea, but not necessary, to replace your engine oil after cleaning out the plenum. Please note... you can't legally buy Power Foam in California, so you can buy it through EBay, but not Amsoil.
As far as my idle up issues go, there was no difference between the new and old VSV, and cleaning the idle up actuator/diaphragm didn't change anything, so I guess I'll need to replace my idle up actuator/diaphragm. Replacement part numbers for these parts are: 88606-35020 for the diaphragm and 88690-89132 for the valve.
As far as my idle up issues go, there was no difference between the new and old VSV, and cleaning the idle up actuator/diaphragm didn't change anything, so I guess I'll need to replace my idle up actuator/diaphragm. Replacement part numbers for these parts are: 88606-35020 for the diaphragm and 88690-89132 for the valve.
Again, all thoroughly outlined.
#48
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OK, I bought a new idle up actuator/diaphragm, and the idle now goes up when I turn on the A/C. What RPM do you recommend the truck run when the A/C is on? Now, it is running about 1100-1200RPM in idle with the A/C and 750RPM without the A/C. I'm sensing that is higher than it needs to be, and I'll adjust it to your recommedations.
#49
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Mine's between 1k and 1.1k usually... Seems to be fine there. Recently replaced vacuum hoses, but didn't do any adjustment on it -- actually not sure if it can be adjusted.
#50
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Actually, there is a screw adjustment on the idle up actuator/diaphragm. I guess we are about the same, but are we wasting gas, or is the higher RPM advantageous when the A/C is running? I can understand the idle up preventing the idle from dropping, but is it necessary to have it increase?
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