What in the world are you talking about ??
Just put the 'J' down and step away





Fred

 

I have 33s with 4.10s and I do just fine... and I live near the mountain passes.

just put a new exhaust on when you get tires and that will even things out. what really slows you down is the extra tire weight.


and with 1" BL you can do 33x12.50s or 1.5 spacer lift with minimal modding.

or 33x10.50 stock.


PERIOD..

 

Energy = Power *dt

So, assuming a given period of time, Energy = Power

1st law of thermodynamics is that energy is conserved. Since energy = power, then for a given period of time, power is conserved.

In other words, if the engine makes 100 HP, your wheels see 100 HP minus the heat losses in the drivetrain.

Since power = torque * RPM, then if power is constant, you have to trade RPM for torque and vise versa...

 

What they mean is when you step on the gas with 33's your going to accelerate slower than with 31's. IMHO, unless you really need to, stick with 31's. My 22RE 4Runner is at it's limit at 31's and 4:10s.

 

Cool, because I have 4.10's....or maybe 4.30's.. I forgot which of the two.

 

Thanks for all the input. I finally decoded what gearing I have, and it turns out that I have 4.88's. And I've actually been thinking about putting an exhaust on my 4runner and getting a little more power, but I just haven't gotten to it. And I really only want some different sized tires tires since the ones that I have are fairly worn down, and I figure that if I need new tires, might as well put on some slightly bigger ones

 

And actually, according to the table that machabees gave me, 4.88's are just about perfect for a 33 inch tire

 

Now, that might be for the 4cyl. but when i got my 265x75 R16 installed and with 43PSI i GAINED MPG!!!!!! i got around 25MPG compared to 21MPG with my 31's @ 30PSI. And as for shifting, i have noticed nothing at all, i pass just as well as i used to. Well i got more power for passing when i removed my CAT and muffler. And Acceleration was the same.

I fit the 265x75's with no mods the only time i rub is full lock while at full articulation.

 

If you have 4.88's, then you have an auto and are undergeared already. I would NOT go larger than stock on an automatic transmission if:
- you drive highway speeds on hilly terrain
- you have not installed an auxilliary tranny cooler

 

I've never had a need to install a tranny cooler. Would my transmission really heat up that much?

 

I found some tranny coolers but, if I was to get one, which would be better? Medium or heavy duty?

 

Yes, your torque converter is not going to lock up as much (if at all, depending on how much bigger you go with tires), so you will constantly be shearing the fluid in the torque converter.

As with all things cooling related, go with the heavy duty.

 

Reviving an old thread here, but I'm in the market for tires. Just wondering about the idea of running a 33X10.5 vs. a 32X11.5. What would be the pro's & cons of either? I'm assuming a slimmer tire would have less weight and rolling resistance. The wider tire would be better in the sand, but we don't have much of that in Arkansas. I would think the slimmer tire might work better to bite in the mud & snow with our rigs being so lightweight.

With that being said, has anyone put the 33X10.5 on their 1st gen without any other lift modifications? Anyone have experience with both tires? I'm not too worried about the power, as I'll have a set of spare street tires if I need to take a lengthy road trip, which I rarely do in this rig.

 

hmm well one of the advantages of the 33x10.5 that i noticed [ive ran both sizes] is that the 33 actually doesnt rub [in normal driving] the wider 32 would catch my pinchweld more often in normal driving.

this is on 2 diff yotas with about an 1.5 inches of lift.

 

So you're getting rubbing even with 1.5 inches of lift huh? I see you have a 2nd Gen. I wonder if the 1st can get away with a little more than the 2nds. In reading more, it looks like the skinny tire might be the better way to go. I'll be using a stock 15" steelie.

 

i'd def go with the narrow 33 over the wider 32



i should have typed the 33 doesnt rub at all in normal driving, but the 32 did



thats what i get for talking on the phone and typing at teh same time

 

My 84 pickup has 33x10.5 bfg km2 on it. I did hammer the pinchweld, and I also relocated the front axle 1.4" for approach angle more than anything else.

No lift, no rubbing*. I also have a 2wd box that doesn't have the bigger flares on the rear. Still no lift, no rubbing.

*Well, at full right lock, the left front tire rubs the pitman arm on the steering box. So you can either adjust your steering stops, or just remember not to have it at full right lock.

 

Thanks fellas. In reading a few other threads, it appears narrow is better.

 

That extra 1" width causes FAR more fitment issues than the 1" extra diameter, and there's only one practical way to get clearance under the diffs - taller tires.

 

the reason u got more power is a 365/75r16 is smaller then a 31" tire it is actually a 30 in just in case u didnt know that already