Manual trans swap
05-08-2007, 09:23 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Manual trans swap
So I did my manual trans swap this weekend.
Started out on thursday actually. Removed the trans and Tcase.
Friday I got the manual trans, flywheel, slave cylinder, master clylinder, hard and soft lines, clutch pedal, shifters, interior pieces and a new clutch and flywheel.
Saturday the weather wasnt so good so all I got done was the clutch pedal and master cylinder. I ended up having to take out the lower dash and the steering column to get everything out. Used the existing brake pedal mout as a template for the holes to be drilled for the master cylinder. Pretty straight forward, just a pain to work under the dash. Took about 3 hours or so but I was also sidetracked so it could have probably been done in about 2.
Sunday put the new flywheel on. Noticed there was a spacer behind the auto flywheel and the manual flywheel didnt sit quite right so I removed the spacer. I just confirmed with Toyota that the spacer is for the auto. Put the new clutch on, then put the tranny in. I was pretty hung over Sunday and working by myself so I was hating life until that part was done! So the tranny was in, hooked up the driveshafts, and crossed the black and black/white wires for the neutral switch. These were the ones in the biggest connector going to the auto trans. The 2 wires are seperate from all the rest on the connector so its pretty easy to tell which ones they were. Hooked up the slave cylinder and bled the clutch.
Then fired it up.....I might have left out a few things above.
Well the clutch would not disengage. Hmmmm thought about it for a while. Checked out the slave cylinder. It was moving. Probably an inch or more so I figured thats not it. My only thought was the clutch is in backwards. So Monday I take the tranny back out and come to find out it was in right. Ughhhh! So I put the spacer in behind the flywheel. I tried to call Toyota last night but I was 2 min. too late.
So now my tranny is back in, just need to hook up the driveshafts and the slave cylinder. But Toyota says I dont need the spacer. Maybe my slve cylinder isnt working well enough. I didnt replace it. Dont even ask why I know its only $15. But its moving an inch or more. How much does it need to move? Also will it hurt to run that spacer with the manual flywheel? Its prob only 1/16" maybe.
I still need to get the connector for the ADD and figure out the reverse lights. But for now im just trying to get this clutch issue worked out. So if anyone has any ideas, comments or questions feel free.
Started out on thursday actually. Removed the trans and Tcase.
Friday I got the manual trans, flywheel, slave cylinder, master clylinder, hard and soft lines, clutch pedal, shifters, interior pieces and a new clutch and flywheel.
Saturday the weather wasnt so good so all I got done was the clutch pedal and master cylinder. I ended up having to take out the lower dash and the steering column to get everything out. Used the existing brake pedal mout as a template for the holes to be drilled for the master cylinder. Pretty straight forward, just a pain to work under the dash. Took about 3 hours or so but I was also sidetracked so it could have probably been done in about 2.
Sunday put the new flywheel on. Noticed there was a spacer behind the auto flywheel and the manual flywheel didnt sit quite right so I removed the spacer. I just confirmed with Toyota that the spacer is for the auto. Put the new clutch on, then put the tranny in. I was pretty hung over Sunday and working by myself so I was hating life until that part was done! So the tranny was in, hooked up the driveshafts, and crossed the black and black/white wires for the neutral switch. These were the ones in the biggest connector going to the auto trans. The 2 wires are seperate from all the rest on the connector so its pretty easy to tell which ones they were. Hooked up the slave cylinder and bled the clutch.
Then fired it up.....I might have left out a few things above.
Well the clutch would not disengage. Hmmmm thought about it for a while. Checked out the slave cylinder. It was moving. Probably an inch or more so I figured thats not it. My only thought was the clutch is in backwards. So Monday I take the tranny back out and come to find out it was in right. Ughhhh! So I put the spacer in behind the flywheel. I tried to call Toyota last night but I was 2 min. too late.
So now my tranny is back in, just need to hook up the driveshafts and the slave cylinder. But Toyota says I dont need the spacer. Maybe my slve cylinder isnt working well enough. I didnt replace it. Dont even ask why I know its only $15. But its moving an inch or more. How much does it need to move? Also will it hurt to run that spacer with the manual flywheel? Its prob only 1/16" maybe.
I still need to get the connector for the ADD and figure out the reverse lights. But for now im just trying to get this clutch issue worked out. So if anyone has any ideas, comments or questions feel free.
05-08-2007, 09:52 PM
#2
Registered User
So I did my manual trans swap this weekend.
Started out on thursday actually. Removed the trans and Tcase.
Friday I got the manual trans, flywheel, slave cylinder, master clylinder, hard and soft lines, clutch pedal, shifters, interior pieces and a new clutch and flywheel.
Saturday the weather wasnt so good so all I got done was the clutch pedal and master cylinder. I ended up having to take out the lower dash and the steering column to get everything out. Used the existing brake pedal mout as a template for the holes to be drilled for the master cylinder. Pretty straight forward, just a pain to work under the dash. Took about 3 hours or so but I was also sidetracked so it could have probably been done in about 2.
Sunday put the new flywheel on. Noticed there was a spacer behind the auto flywheel and the manual flywheel didnt sit quite right so I removed the spacer. I just confirmed with Toyota that the spacer is for the auto. Put the new clutch on, then put the tranny in. I was pretty hung over Sunday and working by myself so I was hating life until that part was done! So the tranny was in, hooked up the driveshafts, and crossed the black and black/white wires for the neutral switch. These were the ones in the biggest connector going to the auto trans. The 2 wires are seperate from all the rest on the connector so its pretty easy to tell which ones they were. Hooked up the slave cylinder and bled the clutch.
Then fired it up.....I might have left out a few things above.
Well the clutch would not disengage. Hmmmm thought about it for a while. Checked out the slave cylinder. It was moving. Probably an inch or more so I figured thats not it. My only thought was the clutch is in backwards. So Monday I take the tranny back out and come to find out it was in right. Ughhhh! So I put the spacer in behind the flywheel. I tried to call Toyota last night but I was 2 min. too late.
So now my tranny is back in, just need to hook up the driveshafts and the slave cylinder. But Toyota says I dont need the spacer. Maybe my slve cylinder isnt working well enough. I didnt replace it. Dont even ask why I know its only $15. But its moving an inch or more. How much does it need to move? Also will it hurt to run that spacer with the manual flywheel? Its prob only 1/16" maybe.
I still need to get the connector for the ADD and figure out the reverse lights. But for now im just trying to get this clutch issue worked out. So if anyone has any ideas, comments or questions feel free.
Started out on thursday actually. Removed the trans and Tcase.
Friday I got the manual trans, flywheel, slave cylinder, master clylinder, hard and soft lines, clutch pedal, shifters, interior pieces and a new clutch and flywheel.
Saturday the weather wasnt so good so all I got done was the clutch pedal and master cylinder. I ended up having to take out the lower dash and the steering column to get everything out. Used the existing brake pedal mout as a template for the holes to be drilled for the master cylinder. Pretty straight forward, just a pain to work under the dash. Took about 3 hours or so but I was also sidetracked so it could have probably been done in about 2.
Sunday put the new flywheel on. Noticed there was a spacer behind the auto flywheel and the manual flywheel didnt sit quite right so I removed the spacer. I just confirmed with Toyota that the spacer is for the auto. Put the new clutch on, then put the tranny in. I was pretty hung over Sunday and working by myself so I was hating life until that part was done! So the tranny was in, hooked up the driveshafts, and crossed the black and black/white wires for the neutral switch. These were the ones in the biggest connector going to the auto trans. The 2 wires are seperate from all the rest on the connector so its pretty easy to tell which ones they were. Hooked up the slave cylinder and bled the clutch.
Then fired it up.....I might have left out a few things above.
Well the clutch would not disengage. Hmmmm thought about it for a while. Checked out the slave cylinder. It was moving. Probably an inch or more so I figured thats not it. My only thought was the clutch is in backwards. So Monday I take the tranny back out and come to find out it was in right. Ughhhh! So I put the spacer in behind the flywheel. I tried to call Toyota last night but I was 2 min. too late.
So now my tranny is back in, just need to hook up the driveshafts and the slave cylinder. But Toyota says I dont need the spacer. Maybe my slve cylinder isnt working well enough. I didnt replace it. Dont even ask why I know its only $15. But its moving an inch or more. How much does it need to move? Also will it hurt to run that spacer with the manual flywheel? Its prob only 1/16" maybe.
I still need to get the connector for the ADD and figure out the reverse lights. But for now im just trying to get this clutch issue worked out. So if anyone has any ideas, comments or questions feel free.
I ain't alone then. I can't wait until you are done and see how it goes. I might as well get the new slave cylinder since you are having the problem, it help alot in the long run. Are you using your A/T wire harness and your A/T ECU to the 5 speed swap? Can't way for the result so keep me or others update.
05-10-2007, 06:09 AM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yes im using the A/T computer. My OD light is flashing though. I need to figure out how to stop that.
But definatly use new parts for the clutch....everything.
I did not need new driveshafts, mine worked. I had heard they were different, maybe some are.
But definatly use new parts for the clutch....everything.
I did not need new driveshafts, mine worked. I had heard they were different, maybe some are.
05-10-2007, 04:52 PM
#4
Registered User
Oh cool. So how does it run now? have you test drive it yet? FredTJ might know how to override the O/D flashing but you need to contact him, I'll try to contact him later on.
05-10-2007, 05:15 PM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Calgary, AB, Can
Posts: 687
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Remove the trim around the stereo and pull it out. There are a couple of connectors on the back: OD light, lighter, etc. Just disconnect the OD light.
05-11-2007, 05:31 AM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thats what I figured would be the easiest.
I finally figured out why my clutch wasnt working. After a new slave cylinder and master cylinder it still didnt work! Everything was new. So I get to looking at the clutch pedal assembly and come to find out theres a big crack in it! When you press the clutch pedal it was bending the whole bracket and therefore not engaging the clutch all the way. So I just took a long self tapping screw and fastened the bracket to the firewall. It works but tonight im going to weld the bracket. I was so pissed when I found that out. All that work for nothing!
Oh well. But im driving it now. Its doing very well. Im very pleased with how it drives now. Much nicer than the auto.
I finally figured out why my clutch wasnt working. After a new slave cylinder and master cylinder it still didnt work! Everything was new. So I get to looking at the clutch pedal assembly and come to find out theres a big crack in it! When you press the clutch pedal it was bending the whole bracket and therefore not engaging the clutch all the way. So I just took a long self tapping screw and fastened the bracket to the firewall. It works but tonight im going to weld the bracket. I was so pissed when I found that out. All that work for nothing!
Oh well. But im driving it now. Its doing very well. Im very pleased with how it drives now. Much nicer than the auto.
Trending Topics
05-13-2007, 06:04 PM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Colorado
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How much do you think this would cost to do by a mechanic shop??
im not educated enough to try the swap by myself but Im sick of the auto sucking all the power out of the 3.0 .
im not educated enough to try the swap by myself but Im sick of the auto sucking all the power out of the 3.0 .
05-14-2007, 05:19 AM
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yes im pretty sure its the R151F....pretty sure anyway.
Much better power now. With the slipping auto I was getting about 12.5 mpg, now im getting 17.5! Yay!
As far as getting a shop to do it youre probably going to pay a pretty penny. If you can replace the auto and can do minor electrical work you can do it yourself a lot cheaper.
Much better power now. With the slipping auto I was getting about 12.5 mpg, now im getting 17.5! Yay!
As far as getting a shop to do it youre probably going to pay a pretty penny. If you can replace the auto and can do minor electrical work you can do it yourself a lot cheaper.
08-27-2008, 08:54 PM
#14
Registered User
Yes im pretty sure its the R151F....pretty sure anyway.
Much better power now. With the slipping auto I was getting about 12.5 mpg, now im getting 17.5! Yay!
As far as getting a shop to do it youre probably going to pay a pretty penny. If you can replace the auto and can do minor electrical work you can do it yourself a lot cheaper.
Much better power now. With the slipping auto I was getting about 12.5 mpg, now im getting 17.5! Yay!
As far as getting a shop to do it youre probably going to pay a pretty penny. If you can replace the auto and can do minor electrical work you can do it yourself a lot cheaper.
08-28-2008, 05:26 AM
#16
I can't see any good coming from the unneeded spacer. You said it was between the flywheel and the crankshaft, right?
It may not hurt anything, but it would drive me crazy knowing it was not supposed to be there. My gut would hurt every time I thought about it, but probably not bad enough to R&R that tranny again if it wasn't making noise!
Otherwise, good job on the conversion. That's a big job, no matter how you slice it.
It may not hurt anything, but it would drive me crazy knowing it was not supposed to be there. My gut would hurt every time I thought about it, but probably not bad enough to R&R that tranny again if it wasn't making noise!
Otherwise, good job on the conversion. That's a big job, no matter how you slice it.
08-29-2008, 06:31 AM
#18
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: GA
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I swapped to a manual from the auto, but I done an engine swa at the same time into a O.E equipped manual truck, had to use the R151F tranny, no problems whatsoever, engages/dis-engages. I dunno
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Poncho0206
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
3
07-10-2015 06:21 PM
