Man....I am about to drive myself and this toyota off of a cliff.....
12-01-2007, 08:07 AM
#21
Contributing Member
On the pickups you can replace the brake line without dropping the tank, but you have to move it over some to get to the bolt that holds the line to the frame. (It helps if the drive shaft is out of the way) The fuel filter needs to come off too, so you might want to replace the fuel lines too while you're at it.
https://www.yotatech.com/912696-post60.html
Another option (not as good) is to run a long SS braided flexable brake line around the bad line.
https://www.yotatech.com/912696-post60.html
Another option (not as good) is to run a long SS braided flexable brake line around the bad line.
Last edited by mt_goat; 12-01-2007 at 08:41 AM.
12-01-2007, 09:23 AM
#22
Registered User
Thread Starter
Just go to an automotive store and get a chunk of brakeline the length you need and bend it the way you want. Get a joiner fitting for the line and cut the old brake line and take your old fitting off the LSPV and put on your new line. Flare with a flaring tool and put it all back on. Not a hard job to do.
I may just drop the tank to replace the entire thing though, and just know that it's good to go. My problem, is locally, finding metric threaded fittings on brake line is all but impossible. I've dealt with this on Honda's I don't know how many times. This is why I'll often cut the line, flare it, and join some lines together.
It's no big deal to me...like I said, its just the time and ongoing crap.
12-01-2007, 09:31 AM
#23
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 330
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Why can't you use the fittings that are already there and just take them off the old line and put them on the new line you build? You don't need to bugger them up when taking them off. Just heat the fitting up with a torch and throw some water on it. Will make it come out nice and easy. That way all you need to do is get some brake line and flare it nice. And if you are going to splice a line in just put regular standard fittings on where the splice is. The truck wont care that the splice fitting aren't metic. It'll be happy.
12-01-2007, 01:38 PM
#26
Registered User
Thread Starter
Oh I see....Honda's use metric fittings, and that always causes me hell. Well, if it's 3/8's fittings, then that makes things even easier so...not so bad I guess.
12-01-2007, 01:51 PM
#27
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 330
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Why must you double flare it? When I did mine I just used a Rigid flaring tool and just did the regular flare. And it sealed up just perfectly fine. The brakes work fine and no leaks at all. Even had an emergency stop cause some idiot decided to pull over but use up 2 lanes and forced another guy into incoming traffic. All in nice snowly slippery weather but I stopped just fine.
12-01-2007, 10:41 PM
#28
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: INDIANA
Posts: 2,149
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would remove the old line first and take it with you when you get the new line so you can find a close match then you can bend your new line close to the same as the old one.
I have found that they do not have to be a exact match but close and it is always better to get a line that in a little longer then too short
I have found that they do not have to be a exact match but close and it is always better to get a line that in a little longer then too short
12-02-2007, 12:11 PM
#30
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: goshen ,ind
Posts: 652
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the double flare is for better sealing ,strength,& safety. the single flare will work for the time being ,but if you had to do a panic stop already i think you are driving (stopping?) on borrowed time. also the dbl. flare helps with the strength of the line as they tend to crack when single flared... if it were me i'd replace it a.s.a.p. !! as steering & braking are VERY important !! just my $.02 worth ...
12-02-2007, 12:20 PM
#31
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
just cut out the old brake line, run a new one from the split on the passenger side, over the tank to the back. bleed the line, then the brakes.
When i bought my first truck, i had to change both the lines to the back that way, no need to drop the tank, then had the same problem on my first 4runner. just did the two on the 2nd 4runner and a month ago did my bosses ext cab truck.
this is a common problem in canada and sits on the lip of the tank next to the lines and rots them out.
All in all its an hour job to do it.
When i bought my first truck, i had to change both the lines to the back that way, no need to drop the tank, then had the same problem on my first 4runner. just did the two on the 2nd 4runner and a month ago did my bosses ext cab truck.
this is a common problem in canada and sits on the lip of the tank next to the lines and rots them out.
All in all its an hour job to do it.
Last edited by Discipher; 12-02-2007 at 12:43 PM.
12-02-2007, 08:32 PM
#33
Registered User
Thread Starter
Alright, so here's the story.
I checked the news, and we have some weather comin, and I need this truck running. My 460whp DelSol isn't gonna cut it in the snow, so I decided to approach it like this:
I just read today, searching the yotatech forums, that the dealer has the lines prebent and all for 30 bucks a piece! WOW...of all the things to be cheap from the dealer...who'da thought.
Well, seeing this, clearly this is the way I want to go. Only problem is, like I said, I need my truck back for this weather that's coming. My girlfriend works nights, and has school, so if it snows, my truck needs to be available.
So what I decided to do was, cut in front of the tank, then cut behind the tank right in front of that proportioning valve. I bought two 60" 3/16's lines, some unions, and used a standard flare tool to join the lines. I then filled and bled out the system.
Everything is good to go, but I am having a really bad stiff pedal upon the first push, but if I repush the pedal I gain some breaking, then if I repush the pedal I get braking full on. I am gonna bleed the system more tomorrow, but I am starting to feel like I have a booster issue too. I checked the check valve, and it's working properly. I dont' hear any hissing and the pedal goes down when I start the truck, but air in the line making the pedal hard as a rock and useless sounds wrong.
Anyway, to wrap it up. What I'm going to do is go to the Toyota dealer and buy those lines. Since I saw the rust and corrosion, I want to drop that tank and clean up the frame anyway. I suspect there is some rust and I want to deal with it and head it off. I'll just save that project for a later date when I can get to it. For now, I should get by with the fix.
I checked the news, and we have some weather comin, and I need this truck running. My 460whp DelSol isn't gonna cut it in the snow, so I decided to approach it like this:
I just read today, searching the yotatech forums, that the dealer has the lines prebent and all for 30 bucks a piece! WOW...of all the things to be cheap from the dealer...who'da thought.
Well, seeing this, clearly this is the way I want to go. Only problem is, like I said, I need my truck back for this weather that's coming. My girlfriend works nights, and has school, so if it snows, my truck needs to be available.
So what I decided to do was, cut in front of the tank, then cut behind the tank right in front of that proportioning valve. I bought two 60" 3/16's lines, some unions, and used a standard flare tool to join the lines. I then filled and bled out the system.
Everything is good to go, but I am having a really bad stiff pedal upon the first push, but if I repush the pedal I gain some breaking, then if I repush the pedal I get braking full on. I am gonna bleed the system more tomorrow, but I am starting to feel like I have a booster issue too. I checked the check valve, and it's working properly. I dont' hear any hissing and the pedal goes down when I start the truck, but air in the line making the pedal hard as a rock and useless sounds wrong.
Anyway, to wrap it up. What I'm going to do is go to the Toyota dealer and buy those lines. Since I saw the rust and corrosion, I want to drop that tank and clean up the frame anyway. I suspect there is some rust and I want to deal with it and head it off. I'll just save that project for a later date when I can get to it. For now, I should get by with the fix.
01-29-2015, 11:01 AM
#34
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It always comes in waves. Every time I am about sell my truck, something comes up that I have to fix (I refuse to sell a busted truck to someone). So then I spend way too long and too much money fixing it... and then when it works again, I realize how great it is and fall in love with the damn thing all over. Then I decide to drive it for a little while longer... till I finally decide to sell it and the whole process repeats itself.
02-02-2015, 12:23 PM
#36
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
6th Gear
84-85 Trucks & 4Runners (Build-Up Section)
19
12-10-2019 07:31 AM
91toybeater
Other Makes Cars/Trucks
2
12-27-2015 07:46 PM
