Lower Control Damage
#42
Registered User
Thread Starter
You would think they would. When you purchase a replacement part you shouldn't have to fab parts to make it work.
I have used Energy stuff before but I am really disappointed with these bushings.
I have used Energy stuff before but I am really disappointed with these bushings.
#43
Registered User
Thread Starter
So do you guys think if I sandwiched a washer where the old end cap was would I be ok???
BTW has anyone had any problems with the quickness of Downeys shipping? I have been waiting two weeks for my stuff!
Scott
BTW has anyone had any problems with the quickness of Downeys shipping? I have been waiting two weeks for my stuff!
Scott
#44
Registered User
I have lower urathane bushings
If I had to to it over - OEM or custom derlin
Urathane i smade by the aftermarket beause its cheap to do.
Rubber is better becuase it "twists" instead of acting like a bearking and slides. Thats why the urathane will squeek.
In my case I got some metal sleeve parts made out of stainless by a metal shop.
Ya still need the measurements?
IFS parts should be CHEAP to find in the yards BTW...
If I had to to it over - OEM or custom derlin
Urathane i smade by the aftermarket beause its cheap to do.
Rubber is better becuase it "twists" instead of acting like a bearking and slides. Thats why the urathane will squeek.
In my case I got some metal sleeve parts made out of stainless by a metal shop.
Ya still need the measurements?
IFS parts should be CHEAP to find in the yards BTW...
#45
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
The only reason that I decided to change the bushings was because I thought it was an upgrade. It was also suggested to me earlier in this thread. I have no idea how Energy Suspension thinks you can reuse the metal part....How the hell do you even get the old bushing off the sleeve.....For that matter how to you get one back one???
How would I go about making one? Guess I will have to use some ingenuaty on this one.
How would I go about making one? Guess I will have to use some ingenuaty on this one.
edit: My Downey stuff came in a reasonable amount of time as I recall, but it was a couple years back.
Last edited by BLKNBLU; 05-06-2007 at 12:13 PM. Reason: added text
#46
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well after some serious torching I go most of it off. I took the rest off with the grinder. I am putting tons of the Energy lub on everything to stop the squeak if I can. I am going to just sandwich a big 3/4 fender washer on the sides that broke off during extraction.
I will try to get some pics up tonight.
I was going to just trash the stuff.....But that doesnt fit with my DIY mentality. I would sooner spend money and time fabing a solution than give up on something (Probably to my discredit)
Scott
I will try to get some pics up tonight.
I was going to just trash the stuff.....But that doesnt fit with my DIY mentality. I would sooner spend money and time fabing a solution than give up on something (Probably to my discredit)
Scott
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yotaspliffs (04-16-2021)
#47
Registered User
Basically to get the inner metal sleeves off you PRESS or BURN them out of the control arms.
In your case since the control arms are trash - CUT them off th control arms with a sawzall.
I have a set of sleeves here so I can measure em up so you can get em made by a machine shop...
In your case since the control arms are trash - CUT them off th control arms with a sawzall.
I have a set of sleeves here so I can measure em up so you can get em made by a machine shop...
#51
Registered User
Thread Starter
So....Will my modded sleeves work??
I have access to a machine shop and could have the parts made with relative ease.... I would like my truck back asap, but i like to do things right the first time
Ewong, I will take those measurements
I have access to a machine shop and could have the parts made with relative ease.... I would like my truck back asap, but i like to do things right the first time
Ewong, I will take those measurements
#53
Registered User
Contact this guy?
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=115152
I didnt see this till this AM... I'll get measurements and pics tonight... I think I have the parts here in my house (as opposed to sitting inthe 4Runner thats in storage)
IMHO - the washers will work ONLY if the fashers are AROUND the tube.
The metal sleeve is what the suspension cam bolts clamps against between the ears. If you stack washers int htere -then its more likely that the syspension arm bolt will move around - putting ya out of alignment... I know - the first sleeves I had made were "too short"... Also the OEM ones have a "serration" to give the assembly some "bite" in the ears....
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=115152
I didnt see this till this AM... I'll get measurements and pics tonight... I think I have the parts here in my house (as opposed to sitting inthe 4Runner thats in storage)
IMHO - the washers will work ONLY if the fashers are AROUND the tube.
The metal sleeve is what the suspension cam bolts clamps against between the ears. If you stack washers int htere -then its more likely that the syspension arm bolt will move around - putting ya out of alignment... I know - the first sleeves I had made were "too short"... Also the OEM ones have a "serration" to give the assembly some "bite" in the ears....
#55
Registered User
Its kinda hard to measure the width (diameter) of the rubber as its - well - squishy.
w/o squeezing too hard I get 1.580"
I dont have a lower A arm handy to measure the actual arm hole diameter.
Its kind of an odd measurement as the washers have serrations on them. But as far as I can tell a tube of length 2.720" should do it. Thats the critcal measurement anyways.
Note that the washers are on BOTH ends of the OEM bushing. The washers are captured via a thin tube sleeve that gets "peened over" and retains the end washers.
The poly bushings appear to have a POLY "washer" to keep the A arm in place.
The washer outer diameter isnt critical, but mine is 1.640"
You have a poly bushing and can get a press fit number for the outer diameter pof the sleeve better than I can.
I havent sawed the rubber off of these.
At the end I measure 1.030" as a diameter for the sleeve.
Inner hole diameter is less critical - it just needs to be a hole that the bolt passes through. I get 0.640" on mine. I'd measure a cam bolt to double check..
I found a cam bolt (can you tell this is a LONG standing project for me?)
0.627"
Hope that helps
w/o squeezing too hard I get 1.580"
I dont have a lower A arm handy to measure the actual arm hole diameter.
Its kind of an odd measurement as the washers have serrations on them. But as far as I can tell a tube of length 2.720" should do it. Thats the critcal measurement anyways.
Note that the washers are on BOTH ends of the OEM bushing. The washers are captured via a thin tube sleeve that gets "peened over" and retains the end washers.
The poly bushings appear to have a POLY "washer" to keep the A arm in place.
The washer outer diameter isnt critical, but mine is 1.640"
You have a poly bushing and can get a press fit number for the outer diameter pof the sleeve better than I can.
I havent sawed the rubber off of these.
At the end I measure 1.030" as a diameter for the sleeve.
Inner hole diameter is less critical - it just needs to be a hole that the bolt passes through. I get 0.640" on mine. I'd measure a cam bolt to double check..
I found a cam bolt (can you tell this is a LONG standing project for me?)
0.627"
Hope that helps
#56
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ok.....I have the parts being machined now....The machinist wasn't sure how to do the serrated Knurls so I told him to just put in a band of diamond knurls.
I had to bend back the drop arm for the A-arm so I figured I would pick up one of these to make the job easier
Got it setup and it was working great. I had about another 3/8 to go to get it back to factory dims when...BAM the Ram sprung a leak where the input nipple meets the body.....What a disappointment. I would assume they will take it back since it broke the first time and I wasn't even close to 10 ton of pressure.
Scott
I had to bend back the drop arm for the A-arm so I figured I would pick up one of these to make the job easier
Got it setup and it was working great. I had about another 3/8 to go to get it back to factory dims when...BAM the Ram sprung a leak where the input nipple meets the body.....What a disappointment. I would assume they will take it back since it broke the first time and I wasn't even close to 10 ton of pressure.
Scott
#57
Registered User
Diamond knurs should work.
Its just to keep the sleeve from moving around too much after the bolts are tightened.
My first attempt at this - the sleeves were TOO SHORT so I have stacked washers in there and of course... it moved around too much.
These days - post SAS invention - arms are everywhere and cheap too.
So I have a few lying around...
For my next project (Total Chaos LT) I plan on doing derlin bushings with zerks
Its just to keep the sleeve from moving around too much after the bolts are tightened.
My first attempt at this - the sleeves were TOO SHORT so I have stacked washers in there and of course... it moved around too much.
These days - post SAS invention - arms are everywhere and cheap too.
So I have a few lying around...
For my next project (Total Chaos LT) I plan on doing derlin bushings with zerks
#58
Registered User
Thread Starter
I broke down and just ordered the factory bushings.....$60 a pop (Owww my ass). I cant wait to get my truck which is my DD back. Its hard to cart the family around in my F-350, not to mention its the work vehicle and always dirty.
I would like to say that Harbor Freight is awesome. They exchanged my puller with out ever questioning me.
Hopefully I will be done this weekend.
Scott
I would like to say that Harbor Freight is awesome. They exchanged my puller with out ever questioning me.
Hopefully I will be done this weekend.
Scott
#60
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Location: Minot, ND
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