After the engine has warmed up, and i turn it off for a bit, and restart it, the idle hovers pretty low, somewhere between 300 rpm and is a little rough.

I was wondering if the idle air control valve gets clogged often on the 22re? I know my 3.4L has this problem.

Any other things I should look into? Thanks

 

You can remove the idle air control and check it out, but that`s probably not the problem, remove the throttle body and give it a good cleaning, and also look into the upper intake and see if its full of black goo and carbon build up, if it is you will need to remove the upper intake and clean it out.

 

The idle air control valve, is that located next to/underneath the TB? I guess I'll just clean out the entire intake.

I just bought the truck tonight and of course noticing some "issues" I hadn't noticed when driving it.

He had put on a custom straight pipe intake that wont pass the visual smog inspection.

If anyone is interested in trading me for a stock intake, Id be interested.

 

Can you post a picture of the intake ?.

 

Yeah I'm going to post some pix of the truck with more questions

 

Is it the '94 22re in your sig you're asking about?

If the idle air valve were clogged, you'd more likely have issues idling when the engine's cold. It needs to be open at that point, and needs to be closed once the engine has reached operating temp. They do fail, yes. In which case, it's the thermal wax valve that goes bad and loses repsonse to coolant temp. Now, if it were stuck open, that could create warm idle issues.

Here's some procedures for checking while on the vehicle:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...35auxiliar.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h21.pdf

Does the vehicle have any running issues aside from the poor warm idle?

 

Thook, thanks for the thLinks.

So its formally called the auxiliary air valve?

No running issues besides a slightly rough idle at warm temp. It will go away after i start driving, its just at the very start before I get it into gear. I'll take my video camera today and try to get it on video to post.

 

Yeah. Don't know why someone felt it necessary to change the name.

Anyway, sounds like it may be just sticking. This can happen from lack of coolant system maintenance; rust, calcium build up, etc. Look for rust and whatnot when you get it apart to clean.

 

Did you ever get this solved?

 

Did you ever get this problem solved?

We've been having the same issue with our 1986 Toyota Motorhome.

It starts and runs great.
Idles good cold or hot.

But if we let it cool for, say, 30 or 60 minutes it re-starts just fine but idles very rough and low until we put it in drive and get going.

If I restart it after letting it cool for ten minutes, it idles just fine. Or if we let it cool for over an hour, it idles just fine. Weird.

Thanks!

Andrew

 

i have 1991 toyota pickup 22re when you unplug tps truck runs better plug it in and it idles super rough almost to point of shutting and then sometimes it does brings idle way down does not want to take gas either

 

Mine has done this since from day I bought it (almost 10 years ago). It's not the aux air valve because I've swapped another one onto mine (not for this reason) and it didn't make a difference. I also swapped over another temp sensor and that's also not the problem (again, for other reasons).

Next thing I would suspect is the thermo time switch not working properly.

 

mine runs good only with tps unplugged put on good one still no change plug in tps and it acts like it is retarding timing back tried new mass air flow trie rebuit ecm would not even start until i unplugged tps i work on alot of these trucks but i am stumped on this one

 

That is a great idea. I'll give that a look and report back. I was ready to get a new aux air valve, even though they are damn expensive. I hate to just throw parts, though. As I recall the thermo-time isn't too bad price-wise.

Thanks for the input, though!

So over the course of ten years the problem didn't get worse? If it's not a progressive thing, I may just let sleeping dogs lie, ya know? But if the fix is cheap, I'll give it a shot.

A
_

 

It hasn't seemed to get any worse, it's just annoying at this point. I'm eventually going to figure it out - I have access to another 22re motor to swap sensors from anyway.

Let us know if that fixes it or not.

 

mine is doing almost the same thing, it idles at about 400 once the engine is warm and i have been driving for a while a.d i stop at a redlight or something. it idles low for a couple of seconds then itll pick up and idle just fine at 1000. when it does this with the a/c on it nearly kills it. the whole time it idles low it pops and sputters then runs fine once it idles itself up. its only been doing this since it got hot outside. ive adnusted the idle screw out and it doesnt make a difference at all, seems like its doing nothing because until i get too low it stays at 1000. help please!

 

forgot to add its a 90 5speed 22re

 

If you look at the holes on the tps they are slotted. Sometimes when people think they need to be replaced they just need adjusted. So they buy a new one and install it just to have the same problem. There are plenty forums on tps adjustment.

 

There was a recall, for this problem, under TSB ENG011892010.


The fix involves replacing the temperature switch P/N #89428-2428 with P/N #89428-26020 which reduces the temperature the switch activates the fuel-up system from 110 degrees C (230 degrees F) to 60 degrees C (140 degrees F) and replacing the cold start injector time switch P/N #89462-30011 with P/N #89462-20050 which increases the temperature at which the start injector time switch activates the cold start injector from 35 degrees C (95 degrees F) to 45 degrees C (113 degrees F).

Apparently this is supposed to resolve the hard idle problems when warm. I haven't tried it yet, but the bulletin came up in the late 80's....

 

So, does that mean that any Pickup produced after the late 80s would not have this temp switch and cold start injector time switch issue?