sdstud212001

Okay I did not search because I have no idea where to start okay here goes by best attempt to tell you the problem

I have this crazy squeekey noise that I thought was from the fan so I replaced it with a flex-a-lite and it's still there. I crawled under my ride and had my wife start it and I noticed the pully that is bottom middle, closest to the engine (Same belt as the alternator) anyways this pully seperates from the other 2 and thats what makes that awful noise. I really need help because this noise is awful. I notice that it subsides as I increase the RPM's. Sorry I have no picture at this time but I hope the description is enough. Oh yeah it's a 1987 4runner with a 22re. PLEASE somone help me to help myself!

sdstud212001

Okay I still have not had a chance to get a picture of MY engine bay but here is something I found to get the ball rolling



Okay that's better...
...Now the pully that is outlined with the green is the one that is moving and causing that noise. It moves away from the front pully (towards the engine)like it's disengaging or somthing. Is that a "feature" or do I have a problem?
I'm pretty sure that pully goes to the alternator and the one in front of it goes to the fan (which I no longer have/ went electric)

Please let me know how I might fix this it's driving me crazy !!!!!! not to mention it makes the 4runner sound like a peice of junk

sdstud212001

Okay can anyone tell me what that pully does?

superjoe83

is the 19mm bolt still in the end of the crankshaft?

wrenchmonster

You could check a parts book to be sure, but most all pulleys on crankshafts are keyed. Usually with a woodruff key. Could be a broken or bent pulley. Either way, take it off and see what's going on!

sdstud212001

The pullt is not bent. So to pull it I just remove that center bolt? what should I look for once i get it off?

wrenchmonster

Well, to say the pulley is not bent or damaged just by looking at it still on the truck may be premature. You can't fully inspect it very well on the motor.

Yes, remove the bolt. You'll probably need a puller to get the pulleys off of the crankshaft. You'll also need an air gun to get the bolt out. Or you can use the starter trick.

-Wrench

sdstud212001

thats funny a pully puller, if I ask for that are they gonna think I'm a moron? Okay so you think they have them at autozone? Is it specific to my year?

maxpower_hd

You can usually get the pulley off without a puller, especially if the key way is missing. I was able to tap it with a ball pein hammer. The hardest part is getting that bolt out. My guess would be that the key fell out or broke somehow. It should become obvious once you get the pulley off.

Flash319

Put a new belt on. They get shiny and squeel. Or

wrenchmonster

I understand what maxpwer hd is saying, and I've done it before. But just remember that you're putting undue stress (thrust esentially) on the crankshaft and can potentially damage the pulley while gettting it off with a hammer. That said, the first step has to be getting the bolt out. Maybe you'll get lucky and can just tap it off. I would suggest a dead blow or wood with hammer if you choose to go this route.

There is definately such a tool as a puller, all sorts for different purposes from 3-jaw gear pullers to steering wheel pullers, the list goes on and on.

4runnermt

What condition are the belts in? If you go and get a puller, make sure you get the right bolts to thread in the pulley. If theyre too long you may need to shim them with washers. A lot of puller kits come with an assortment of bolts too.

sdstud212001

The belts are new, I can't really explain what is happening I'll try again. Okay before I start the engine and inspect the pully it sits flush against the pully infront of it. Now when the engine first starts that pully moves away from the one in front of is as if it is trying NOT to engage all the while it is still spinning, when it moves in this manner it makes the noise. Then it goes back to being flush with the pully in front of it and the noise is gone. It does this at idle, as well as when the A/C is on. Now this is attached to the pully that the fan was on (went electric) as well as the alternator. Does that help diagnose it any?

4runnermt

I'm going to look at my engine in the morning and try to see why yours is doing this.

TWolf

I know exactly what your talking about. My 87 22re is doing the same thing and making the timing a pain to try to set-prior to blowing head gasket. when i asked at the stealership the guy there told me the same thing that wrenchmonster said. likely a broken or about to break key. under the set of pulleys-which should all rotate as one and should not seperate) there will be a groove in the crankshaft. between the crankshaft and the pulley there will be a small squarish piece of metal-this is called a key. it aligns the pulley on the crankshaft and keeps the pulley aligned w the crankshaft. Take the pulley off and see if this key is there or if it is worn out. also make sure the crankshaft is not rounded down where the key goes- not likely but it could happen crank is much harder than the key. come to think of it that must be why i keep going through alternator belts. well good luck. and let us know what you find

sdstud212001

Thanks TWolf I'll try to get that done this weekend and post some pics to help with the diagnostics, perhaps it will help you too. Good lock on your rig, is this a common problem for all of you long time yota gooroos (spelling?)

wrenchmonster

As 4runnermt stated, you need to buy the correct puller. I should have elaborated just a little. The Snap-On guy or other tool truck guys will know exactly what you need if you have access to them. The idea is to span the edges of the inside of the pulley and push off in the middle (in this application). By doing this you are essentially pressing off the crank while holding onto the pulley, thus releasing the press hold of the pulley onto the crankshaft.

Once you remove the pulley, the key (woodruff key) will be visible. There are square versions, but most only look square on top. Underneath where they actually connect to the crankshaft the key will likely be crescent shape, like a 1/2 circle. So to remove the woodruff key, just use a punch and gently tap on one edge. The other end will slide up and out kind of like a rocking chair rocks. When you get the new woodruff key (if that turns out to be the problem) there's a trick for an easy install. Basically, you want to angle the flat (top) edge of the key towards the front just slightly. So the key is a little higher in back and a little lower toward the front of the crank. Then as you press the pulley back on the crank it won't hang up on the pulley or fall out, and the pulley will level out the woodruff key as the pulley gets pressed on. Hopefully I said that right.

Also, check the pulley for flatness, dents, and where it seats around the crankshaft to make sure it didn't become out of round or egg shaped. You're looking for shiny metal, friction, etc. The crank could be damaged, but I think that is unlikely. Good luck.

maxpower_hd

I would at least try to get the pully off without the puller before you go and buy one from the Snap On guy unless you think you're going to do enough of these to need it again.

I just took two of them apart a couple of weeks ago for a rebuild. I was able to pull one off by hand. That one was missing the key. The other one only needed very light tapping with a small ball pein hammer. No excessive hammering was needed. If it seems like it will be a bear to get off, then go get the puller.

You may want to try the local auto parts store. Advanced near me allows customers to borrow tools. That may save you some $$$$.

Good luck.

sdstud212001

Okay I removed the pullys to inspect them and here is what I have to work with

HERE IS A PIC FROM THE TOP LOOKING AT WHAT YOU CAN SEE WHEN IT'S ON (WITH THE 3RD PULLY OFF)

TOP VIEW I'M HOLDING ONTO THE PEICE THAT GOES CLOSEST TO THE MOTOR. THE PULLY AT THE TOP OF THE PICTURE IS MY PROBLEM PULLY IT MOVES TOWARDS THE ENGINE(UP IN THE PIC) MAKING THAT AWFUL NOISE

NOW THIS SLIDES OFF PRETTY EASY, IS THAT A GOOD THING, RUBBER BETWEEN THE 2.

HERE THEY ARE OFF I SEE NO WAY OF KEEPING THEM TOGETHER

THE GUYS AT TOYOTA PRINTED THIS FOR ME WOULD THE HIGHLIGHED PEICES HAVE COME OFF BECAUSE NOTHING DID OR IS IT THE SQUARE THING IN THE FIRST PIC?

OKAY DO THE HIGHLIGHTED PARTS I DON'T HAVE GO HERE? HOE DOES THAT KEEP THE PULLYS FORM SEPERATING? IS MINE BROKEN? SHOULD THEY STAY TOGETHER?

wrenchmonster

It's a little hard to see from your photographs, but here's my opinion. Please keep in mind I'm more familiar with the 3.0 than the 22re.

It looks like the pulley is one piece from the parts diagram you posted. If that is the case, I would say the entire pulley is junk as the piece is probably not serviced seperately. It also looks like the rubber between the 2 pulleys broke recently.

It's a little difficult to see because of the seal, but it looks as though the 2nd woodruff key is toast. And also that the forward key has seen some excessive strain as the edges are burring up. Or does the 2nd key hold on part #13434 and not responsible from keeping the drive pulley from spinning. It's hard to tell without being there and not being to familiar with the motor... sorry.

I'd take out the seal for a better view. Replace it while you're there, it's inexpensive. I'd also replace any key that I could get to easily, they are cheap too. And replace the pulley. Let us know if you're unfamiliar with replacing these types of seals.

You might be tempted to weld up the pulley, but I'd advise against that. The rubber ring is there for a reason... just replace the pulley if it's non serviceable. Good luck and keep us posted.