Losing power after shifting into second gear
#22
It looks like my egr valve is already blocked off with a plate .... perhaps that’s the issue . I had no idea what that was there for just assumed it was a ghetto gasket from previous owner .
#23
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Checked my timing it’s hard to be exact since I don’t have the markings just can see where it’s broke off but on base timing mode looks close to 5 and normal idle it’s around 13. Just took itnfor a drive and when you get into second and step on it it starts to sputter and cough and back fire and won’t go above 2000-2500 rpm but can drive around fine in first gear.
#24
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i saw that in the photos after posting. That being the case, fuel pressure would be my next guess like the others have said.
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RASALIBRE (03-19-2020)
#26
Well made a super ghetto fuel pressure tester and it just pissed all over the place when I pressureized it lol so back to the drawing board . Will try to hook into the main fuel line after the filter I think next . My banjo bolt I made didn’t have a good enough seal . Sprayed fuel all the way up to the hood tho so that’s a good sign at least
#28
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Wow! For only a couple hours work, and risking soaking yourself in gasoline, you can save nearly $40! https://www.ebay.com/p/1000379201 Isn't YouTube just full of the greatest advice!
The Schraeder adapter that comes with the Actron gauge kit is 12mm, which is the size of all your fuel fittings except the Cold Start Injector (which I believe is 10mm). On the 22re, the CSI is slightly more convenient to get to, so if you're wedded to using that, you'll need to find a 10mm adapter.
In any event, as wallytoo pointed out, you now must replace every crush washer you've opened up. Cheaper than dirt at the dealer; I've not found a good alternate source.
The Schraeder adapter that comes with the Actron gauge kit is 12mm, which is the size of all your fuel fittings except the Cold Start Injector (which I believe is 10mm). On the 22re, the CSI is slightly more convenient to get to, so if you're wedded to using that, you'll need to find a 10mm adapter.
In any event, as wallytoo pointed out, you now must replace every crush washer you've opened up. Cheaper than dirt at the dealer; I've not found a good alternate source.
#29
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Well made a super ghetto fuel pressure tester and it just pissed all over the place when I pressureized it lol so back to the drawing board . Will try to hook into the main fuel line after the filter I think next . My banjo bolt I made didn’t have a good enough seal . Sprayed fuel all the way up to the hood tho so that’s a good sign at least
Should those crush washers be replaced? Yeah, sure, they’re cheap.
Any rural living soul worth their salt knows you can sand down any gouges, anneal em, and then quench em. Good as new.
#30
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When you feel it’s safe to return to diagnosis, you could try running the fuel pressure regulator to atmosphere. Just plug up the port on the back of the manifold to prevent a vacuum leak.
If the fuel system is functioning correctly, this will raise the fuel pressure in the fuel rail and at the injectors. Even though we don’t know what is working and what isn’t, this is still worth a shot to see how she drives then. Might not show anything, but if she needs more fuel this is the cheapest, easiest, fastest route.
If the fuel system is functioning correctly, this will raise the fuel pressure in the fuel rail and at the injectors. Even though we don’t know what is working and what isn’t, this is still worth a shot to see how she drives then. Might not show anything, but if she needs more fuel this is the cheapest, easiest, fastest route.
#31
Well got my pressure tester to work , 29psi out the back of the fuel filter . Buuut id say I found another issue as you can see in the picture of my fuel that came out the back side of the fuel filter.
#32
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Looks like hot and sour soup!
#33
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Yeah, that's a little too much gravel and grass.
Each injector has a small screen on the inlet (these are usually replaced if the injectors are serviced; you can even do it yourself). If your "hot and sour soup" contained a few larger particles (rust flakes, etc.) the injector filters could be clogged.
Unless your sample really isn't representative, I think you'll need to
1) pump out the tank. Getting rid of a bunch of bad gasoline will require some research.
2) remove the pump and replace the pump inlet filter ("sock")
3) remove the filter (throw it away), and blow out the fuel lines with compressed air.
4) remove the injectors, and inspect them. Or actually get them serviced and tested.
Then new fuel filter.
Each injector has a small screen on the inlet (these are usually replaced if the injectors are serviced; you can even do it yourself). If your "hot and sour soup" contained a few larger particles (rust flakes, etc.) the injector filters could be clogged.
Unless your sample really isn't representative, I think you'll need to
1) pump out the tank. Getting rid of a bunch of bad gasoline will require some research.
2) remove the pump and replace the pump inlet filter ("sock")
3) remove the filter (throw it away), and blow out the fuel lines with compressed air.
4) remove the injectors, and inspect them. Or actually get them serviced and tested.
Then new fuel filter.
#34
Yeah I think a full fuel system restoration is in order. I’d like this to be a daily driver one day so no point skimping out now. I’m gonna take the box off and replace the full tank and pump assembly all together , clean out lines and remove injectors for inspection/cleaning and depending on condition possibly replace them as well . May turn it into a flatbed which would be more useful around the farm see how the box is when I remove it .
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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
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08-11-2008 07:52 PM