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Hey first post here , I have a 89 pickup with 22re, this truck is new to me and I got it with issues never seen it running properly. The truck is losing power and bogs down after i shift from 1st to second and ask for any amount of power out of it . Drives around fine in 1st gear tho. I have replaced the fuel filter , put on a new IAC as I had surging idle issues to start with . Replaced or checked all vacume lines , new alt , new o2 sensor , cut off exhaust before cat bc I though it might have been plugged and was rusting away anyways . New spark plugs. Check and set throttle position sensor , checked MAF . It has a new rad , I timed the engine , checked cyl head pressure 165/155/155/165. I had throttle body off and cleaned up very well. I’m considering putting another fuel filter on and draining the fuel tank bc when I replaced the fuel filter it was pretty dirty. But I’m running out of ideas any insight would be appreciated . There are currently no check engine lights. Checked air filter too.
Whats timing set at?
Did you take the distributor out and/or re-stab it at any point?
Have you verified:
fuel pressure regulator is in proper working order
fuel pressure is in spec per fsm ie. running, after shut off, ect ect
fuel pump is in proper working order per fsm
Hey wasn’t trying to sound rude before sorry , but that’s a good point I will have to look into the fuel pump and regulator . Never checked a fuel pressure regulator have to look into that one thanks!
If I remember correctly I think I set the timing to 13 degrees and I may have removed the distributor it was a while ago now that I did it this is just kinda a side project I’ve been working on but with the warmer weather getting back to it. But I have timed a few cars before so confident it’s timed good enough lol
I didn’t think you were rude at all. I just skimmed too quick!
13 degrees with the diagnostic port jumpered into base timing mode?
Do you have a factory service manual?
What do reference for your checks and procedures?
I can supply pictures from an 86 and 87 fsm. I believe most things would work for you, but not all. A google search or another member may be able to fill in any blanks.
I believe you’re dealing with either a timing or fueling issue.
Please go over how you set timing as thorough as possible, if it is not from following the procedures in the fsm. Same with how you stabbed your distributor. That way everyone reading this is on the same page and variables are minimized.
When you time these engines I’m sure there’s multiple ways to do it that work just fine, but the general accepted fsm practice is to jump te1 to e1 in the diagnostic port. This puts the computer into base timing mode, the engine will drop in rpm and timing is retarded. You set the timing and then remove the jumper.
Concurrently the timing jumper is also a way to check proper tps function/adjustment. If you plug the jumper in and the rpms don’t drop and base timing mode is not achieved, then your tps is either faulty or misadjusted.
Plug a paper clip into the port and double check base timing and the tps at the same time.
Also fsm suggest setting timing to 5* in base timing mode.
I don’t have a factory service Manual I have just been googling for references or watching YouTube videos . I watched a video of someone timing a 22re , I jumped the diagnostic ports and had the rpm drop like you say. Now that you say 5* that makes more sense I did what they said to set it to. I also checked and set the tps according to factory specs with a multimeter . I will re check the timing tmmrw to make sure it’s at 5* . Ohhhh yah I just remember the timing mark is broken off the case lol so it’s ball park 5* but it’s close . Could you send pics of the fsm on how to stab the distributor please that could be helpful , thanks for all your help!
Checked my timing it’s hard to be exact since I don’t have the markings just can see where it’s broke off but on base timing mode looks close to 5 and normal idle it’s around 13. Just took itnfor a drive and when you get into second and step on it it starts to sputter and cough and back fire and won’t go above 2000-2500 rpm but can drive around fine in first gear.
I have to check fuel system still need to go get a fuel pressure gauge . And I replaced a ˟˟˟˟ ton of vacume lines and when it was running I sprayed brake cleaner all over the engine looking for vacume leaks but didn’t notice any guess the fuel system will be next on the list . Did the fuel filter once already and did notice an improvement after I did that but will look into check the rest of the system. And when I bought it the guy said he had cleaned all the injectors . Also my idle is a bit high and my idle screw is turned all the way in. It idles at almost 2k when it’s Cold but once it warms up and the IAC closes it drops down too 1100-1200 but then when I shut it off and start it it idles around 900 but if you rev it up idle goes back to 1100ish .
What you just described with the idle screw and idle characteristics sounds like a vacuum leak to me.
There’s an o ring on that idle screw, could be missing or dried up and not sealing. That’s a cheap simple one if any stores are open near ya.
Two tricky spots I’ve noticed for vacuum leaks are the seals on the throttle body shaft and the gasket around the cold start injector.
Those “new/cleaned” injectors are worth looking into after you’ve verified all other fueling components are in spec and there are no vacuum leaks.
I say check the injectors after only because they’re a kind of a pain to get to and, if not careful, are just far enough into a tear down to chance further complications; vacuum leaks, broken studs, messed up wiring/connectors etcetera.
Sprayed everywhere again with brake clean and still didn’t notice any rpm increases . But that still leaves questions about where the high idle is coming from. Could the fuel system be giving a high idle ? Now I don’t have a gasket on the throttle body but made one with silicone a while back. and again soaked the throttle body with brake clean and no noticeable increase in rpm .
But that still leaves questions about where the high idle is coming from. Could the fuel system be giving a high idle ?
Generally high idle means vacuum leak/lean condition. To verify if it were a fuel system fault we’d have to know more, ie actual size of the injectors lb/min and fuel pressure at idle. Anything is possible, the injectors could be blocked and their spray pattern could be so little that they cause a lean idle and an extremely lean running condition... So there is merit there for your condition, but I couldn’t say for definite. Have you inspected the throttle body hose? It’s known to split on the back side so that it still looks intact.
Put a little grease on the oring for the idle screw and it isles better around 900,Took it for another drive and had the same issues but when I parked it it wouldn’t idle at all without giving it gas and sputtered out with out my giving it any gas to keep it going .
Put a vacuum gauge on it and report back.
also i had an egr valve stuck open on a new 20r build once. It created a large internal vac leak and ran as you described.
take a couple feet of vac line from mouth to egr, suck on it to confirm it moves freely. If running when you do it, it will stumble and maybe stall when the valve opens at idle.
But yah checked those leak spots and no leaks that I could notice . Have to try and find some test equipment for the fuel system before all the stores close for good lol
Put a vacuum gauge on it and report back.
also i had an egr valve stuck open on a new 20r build once. It created a large internal vac leak and ran as you described.
take a couple feet of vac line from mouth to egr, suck on it to confirm it moves freely. If running when you do it, it will stumble and maybe stall when the valve opens at idle.
This!
I run one in my truck. Runs 20in hg and I live at ~5000 feet above sea level. For comparison.
If you don’t have a vacuum gauge:
cut up an aluminum can
loosen the two bolts at the back of the intake manifold
slip a square of aluminum can in between the gasket and the egr tube.
that will temp block of the egr.
03-17-2020, 11:50 AM
