Lock front or rear first?
#4
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cool i have a good person to weld that is what i will do then this is great everybody said stay away from welding but i do have two rear axles so it does not matter if i tear one up. i will lock the next one if i tear it up
thanks for the input
thanks for the input
#5
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i ran weld for years and had no troubles.if it braeks u can still use ur rear u replace everything u welded with a locker anyways all u r doing is welding the spiders.if u look in the tough truck challenge half those guys r welded.like i said a good welder and lots of penetration and u will be going more places in 2 wheel drive than u went in 4x4.and with the money u saved u can lock the front or go to costco and get a winch.
#7
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Are you planning to SAS your truck in the future?
I would say Lincoln lock the back and wait on the front.
Or buy a locker for the back and when you SAS it, put the locker in the front and weld the rear then. Resale on IFS lockers can't be that good.
Just my $.02
I would say Lincoln lock the back and wait on the front.
Or buy a locker for the back and when you SAS it, put the locker in the front and weld the rear then. Resale on IFS lockers can't be that good.
Just my $.02
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#8
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OK, let's all step back a minute before making rash suggestions ...
First, how do you use the truck? If it sees much time on pavement at all, and you can't afford a locker, you CERTAINLY can't afford the extra tire wear a welded diff will cause on the street. Why do you want/need a locker?
Second, what's your budget?
IMHO, locking the front of IFS makes a bigger difference, but also has more drawbacks. The downside is exaggerated the cheaper you go. SO, if you have the money, I would do an ARB in the front first, but if you don't, I would put what you can afford in the rear diff.
First, how do you use the truck? If it sees much time on pavement at all, and you can't afford a locker, you CERTAINLY can't afford the extra tire wear a welded diff will cause on the street. Why do you want/need a locker?
Second, what's your budget?
IMHO, locking the front of IFS makes a bigger difference, but also has more drawbacks. The downside is exaggerated the cheaper you go. SO, if you have the money, I would do an ARB in the front first, but if you don't, I would put what you can afford in the rear diff.
#12
Registered User
I always recommend locking the rear first.
I would wait to lock the front until you can afford a selectable locker.
Being behind a truck with a permanently locked or welded front on tight trails isnt fun. I cant imagine driving it would be either
I would wait to lock the front until you can afford a selectable locker.
Being behind a truck with a permanently locked or welded front on tight trails isnt fun. I cant imagine driving it would be either
#13
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i would do an sas but i cannot find the parts to doit with but i am still looking for a solid axle truck it is like looking for a needle in a hay stack around i am having to compete with samurais the buy them up
#14
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Nah, just weld everything. What you really need to do is the following:
Weld both diffs
weld the transfercase and transmission
weld the driveshafts
put on a solid axle, use any solid axle, it doesn't need to be toyota, it could be a d60, or a toyota rear. be sure to weld the steering box gears, don't want those to differentiate at all
get all solid axle parts from the junk yard, DO NOT, under any circumstances, put any money into the axle. Just buy it, weld the diff, and put it on. weld the axles in place. This will prevent them from breaking
6"-12" lift blocks are the best possible way to lift both the front and the rear. Be certain to weld them to both the springs, and the axle. Don't want them coming out. You don't need shocks at all, total conspiracy. They just want you to spend more money.
Now, you should be able to put on 40's or 44's. Do it. Whatever you do, DO NOT regear. Waste of time. Only fools who believe internet hype actually regear.
Now, with all that, you will need more power. No need to worry about the engine, just get rid of weight. Ditch the entire interior, seats, seatbelts, dash, heater, radio, windshield, all of it. Use a sawzall, and cut the roof, and sides off, leaving just the fenders in place, to keep it legal. Use lawn chairs and ratchet straps to hold yourself in place.
With that, you should have no trouble getting around town, or doing 75 on the highway. you will be completely safe, and with your welded diffs, tranny, xcase, and drivelines, you should have zero problems off road.
Good luck!
Weld both diffs
weld the transfercase and transmission
weld the driveshafts
put on a solid axle, use any solid axle, it doesn't need to be toyota, it could be a d60, or a toyota rear. be sure to weld the steering box gears, don't want those to differentiate at all
get all solid axle parts from the junk yard, DO NOT, under any circumstances, put any money into the axle. Just buy it, weld the diff, and put it on. weld the axles in place. This will prevent them from breaking
6"-12" lift blocks are the best possible way to lift both the front and the rear. Be certain to weld them to both the springs, and the axle. Don't want them coming out. You don't need shocks at all, total conspiracy. They just want you to spend more money.
Now, you should be able to put on 40's or 44's. Do it. Whatever you do, DO NOT regear. Waste of time. Only fools who believe internet hype actually regear.
Now, with all that, you will need more power. No need to worry about the engine, just get rid of weight. Ditch the entire interior, seats, seatbelts, dash, heater, radio, windshield, all of it. Use a sawzall, and cut the roof, and sides off, leaving just the fenders in place, to keep it legal. Use lawn chairs and ratchet straps to hold yourself in place.
With that, you should have no trouble getting around town, or doing 75 on the highway. you will be completely safe, and with your welded diffs, tranny, xcase, and drivelines, you should have zero problems off road.
Good luck!
#18
Registered User
Just curious, have you read up here on the various lockers? Your post doesn't really say what type of wheeling or street driving you do, mix of both, snowy roads, etc... so it's really hard to make a good recommendation.
Frank
#19
Registered User
This isn't a YotaTech-friendly mod,
but I have been considering a spool in the front diff.
Once I get my twin stick, and with my manual locking hubs,
I don't see any issues I would come across. I'll then save up for
a rear locker, cause I sure don't want power to both rear wheels
at all times. Can't afford tires every six months, ya know?
but I have been considering a spool in the front diff.
Once I get my twin stick, and with my manual locking hubs,
I don't see any issues I would come across. I'll then save up for
a rear locker, cause I sure don't want power to both rear wheels
at all times. Can't afford tires every six months, ya know?
#20
Contributing Member
This isn't a YotaTech-friendly mod,
but I have been considering a spool in the front diff.
Once I get my twin stick, and with my manual locking hubs,
I don't see any issues I would come across. I'll then save up for
a rear locker, cause I sure don't want power to both rear wheels
at all times. Can't afford tires every six months, ya know?
but I have been considering a spool in the front diff.
Once I get my twin stick, and with my manual locking hubs,
I don't see any issues I would come across. I'll then save up for
a rear locker, cause I sure don't want power to both rear wheels
at all times. Can't afford tires every six months, ya know?
Spend the extra 100 bucks and get an aussie or lockrite.