Lift Advice::new Member
#1
Lift Advice::new Member
Hi. For a '93 Pickup SR5 Ex-Cab, what should be taken into consideration if I were to lift it about 7-8" and run 35's? Any part of the drivetrain that needs attention besides re-gearing the diffs? It seems like it can handle tires that big just fine. Thanks. Any advice would be great.
Last edited by WKC; 03-19-2006 at 08:28 PM.
#3
I'm not going to do an SAS. As much as I would like to, I would just go ahead and buy something else that already has solid axles under it. I want it to be functional, be able to be used as a daily driver, but have no issues when taken off road. There are places that I would just rather have 35's for going through.
Last edited by WKC; 03-20-2006 at 09:17 AM.
#6
Originally Posted by wjwerdna
7-8" = how much suspension? and how much of it body?
Also, and answers about drivetrain issues? Do axles and driveshafts/u-joints, ball joints, wheel/axle bearings, steering linkages, anything like that need to be looked at when running 35's?
Last edited by WKC; 03-20-2006 at 09:38 AM.
#7
Contributing Member
35's are a lot for the IFS to handle. I'd second the SAS if you truly want limited problems. I think long term, costs are similiar. May even find the SAS is less, depending on your wrenching ability.
I started having big problems with wheeling my IFS pickup running only 33's. Broke CV, alignment issues, failing steering components. I had the 4" Superlift, BJ spacers and a 1" BL. No lockers.
You'll get a lot more twist and torque with those tires, so most of your joints, steering, etc will have increased maintanence/ failure requirements. Don't use auto hubs, as the constant rotation will probably only make things worse.
Most standard IFS lifts don't raise the diff at all, so front driveshaft stays stock. I'd suggest swapping to a one-piece rear driveshaft and elimate the center bearing all together.
A lot of posts online told me not to lift an IFS and just SAS. The suggestions made little sense to me at the time. Now with a different rig with a SAS, I understand what they were talking about.
My .02 cents.
I started having big problems with wheeling my IFS pickup running only 33's. Broke CV, alignment issues, failing steering components. I had the 4" Superlift, BJ spacers and a 1" BL. No lockers.
You'll get a lot more twist and torque with those tires, so most of your joints, steering, etc will have increased maintanence/ failure requirements. Don't use auto hubs, as the constant rotation will probably only make things worse.
Most standard IFS lifts don't raise the diff at all, so front driveshaft stays stock. I'd suggest swapping to a one-piece rear driveshaft and elimate the center bearing all together.
A lot of posts online told me not to lift an IFS and just SAS. The suggestions made little sense to me at the time. Now with a different rig with a SAS, I understand what they were talking about.
My .02 cents.
Last edited by Elvota; 03-20-2006 at 11:46 AM.
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#8
Contributing Member
Originally Posted by WKC
I'm not going to do an SAS. As much as I would like to, I would just go ahead and buy something else that already has solid axles under it.
Originally Posted by WKC
I want it to be functional, be able to be used as a daily driver, but have no issues when taken off road. There are places that I would just rather have 35's for going through.
What is your 'wheeling experience?
#9
Yea, I think that 35's would put just too much stress on some parts that I would not want to fail, and would be overkill anyway for what I would be doing. I think a 4" with 33's and maybe some ARB Air Lockers would be perfect, especially since the truck would also be a daily driver. I'm not looking for a dedicated off road rig, just something very functional and fun. I live in North Carolina, so the truck would spend some time off road at farm properties, back in the woods, and occasionally might take a day/1-night trip to Uwharrie in Spring.
#11
I'm also looking at purchasing a 4Runner instead of a Pickup, but I'm not quite sure yet. I've seen 4Runners go through stuff STOCK that most other vehicles couldn't, and honestly, they are extremely capable vehicles.
#13
I also think you would be better served with a 4" lift and 33's and lockers. When I got my 91 it had 35's with a 4"suspension and a 3" BL on it and was just too much of a dog with the 4cyl. So I removed the BL and went down to 33's. And it is much improved on and off road. Now I want to regear to 4.88's and quicklocks at both ends and I'll be able to go any where I want to. In my opinion this is the best setup for an ifs truck. You get max traction and clearance without putting cv's and driveshafts in too much of a bind. and you don't kill your wheelbearings with too big tires.
Just my .02
Just my .02
#14
Contributing Member
In my opinion, I'd put the money to lockers first, instead of a winch. You will be amazed at the difference they make. I know I was. Even the smaller tires will appreciate being locked up.
Besides, it's not fun to have to winch through the hard stuff.
Besides, it's not fun to have to winch through the hard stuff.
#15
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I would do the 4" lift and 33's also im thinking about it in the summer but i have 32's and i haven't found myself getting stuck yet then again thats a 4Runner for ya but one thing that did come stock that i truely love is the 4.88 gears.....
#16
Yea gears make a big difference. Am I correct that the Speed Sensor controls the A/F Mixture and Timing or was the guy that told me that full of ˟˟˟˟˟?
And not to hijack my own thread, but 4Runner 92, how does your 4Runner sound with a 40 Series muffler on it?
And not to hijack my own thread, but 4Runner 92, how does your 4Runner sound with a 40 Series muffler on it?
#17
4" and 33's is sounding like the winning combo. I have a friend with a stock 1993 4Runner SR5 and 31" Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revos that has gone right through everything he has attempted, so 4" and 33's should be plenty for around here and an occasional offroad trail avdenture.
#18
Contributing Member
If money is tight (and when isn't it? LOL), I would skip the lift altogether. This gen truck/runner can run 33x10.50 with NO lift (OK, I fixed the saggy butt, but otherwise, no lift). Then I would do armor - at least sliders. Then lockers. Since you don't have to deal with snow much, you could go with a lunchbox design and save $$$$$$$$$ over ARB. This would give you an incredibly capable vehicle that is very stable and not prone to breaking much.
This is basically what I've done with my 'runner. I'll be saving up for a crawler box next, and when I find myself not being able to do stuff with that setup, then I'll SAS or buy a buggy!
The only lift I would really consider is a 3" body/drivetrain lift so that nothing sticks below the frame rails.
This is basically what I've done with my 'runner. I'll be saving up for a crawler box next, and when I find myself not being able to do stuff with that setup, then I'll SAS or buy a buggy!
The only lift I would really consider is a 3" body/drivetrain lift so that nothing sticks below the frame rails.
#19
I understand that 33x10.50 fit under it with no lift. I couldn't fit them but I have a truck not the runner. I have added the 3 inch shackles for the rear. I am getting ready to do the 1.5 inch BJ spacer in the front. I believe this will give me enough lift for the 33x10.50 but what I want is the 33x12.50. How much of a BL would I need ? To be able to handle the extra width?
Thanks
Thanks
#20
It seems like you could fit 12.50's under that without a body lift. but it would be tight for sure. If you want to run a body lift, 1" work would, but 2" and they would fit no problem.