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Let's fix another 22RE misfire/backfire/stumble
#21
You had me stumped. I would of thought the same thing of a spark plug with less then 2000 miles. I would recommend just running NGK or Densos. Not sure which ones you were running. Also just for some info, I get all of my plugs and oil filters from Toyota. They really arent any more then a parts store.
#24
I read everything you had done and I used it to fix my 94 toyota 4X4 Pickup with the 22R 4 cylinder engine.. Had just replaced 1 week ago the plugs and plug wire.. # 1 plug wire bad and also the plug. Thanks for the help. Retired Service Advisor of 35 yrs. AAA +++ for your thread.
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TheBoiKing (12-29-2020)
#27
If it's worse in wet weather I'd bet on spark plug wires or coil wire arcing. Watch underhood in the dark for tiny lightning. Just don't put your hand in the fan. It happens. Good hunting
#28
OK. 94 pickup Auto 22re
Got the acceleration stumble / hesitation usually when cold and 'off the line'. I suspect TPS as I recently removed and cleaned the TB (I was careful to not get the TPS wet but...) and removed/cleaned upper plenum. Checked all vacuum lines. The warm idle increased when I remove the TPS connector and decreased when plugging back in. Got code 41,but couldn't that just be from unplugging the TPS?
BTW she has new plugs wires cap rotor cat & cat back.
If it is the TPS, can I loosen the screws hookup my multimeter and adjust it by sound & readouts? I have no idea what this 'feeler-guage' is.
Thanks in advance!
Got the acceleration stumble / hesitation usually when cold and 'off the line'. I suspect TPS as I recently removed and cleaned the TB (I was careful to not get the TPS wet but...) and removed/cleaned upper plenum. Checked all vacuum lines. The warm idle increased when I remove the TPS connector and decreased when plugging back in. Got code 41,but couldn't that just be from unplugging the TPS?
BTW she has new plugs wires cap rotor cat & cat back.
If it is the TPS, can I loosen the screws hookup my multimeter and adjust it by sound & readouts? I have no idea what this 'feeler-guage' is.
Thanks in advance!
#30
Well I'm happy I figured it out, but I'm upset to find out what it was. I went through the process of replacing the #2 fuel injector which takes 1.5 to 2 hours. After I buttoned it back up it still had the exact same problem. So time well wasted. When the #2 spark plug wire is removed there is no change in the bad idle. So for shiggles I swapped #2 and #3 plugs. The problem now moved to #3 cylinder. So all along I had a problem with a spark plug. Would have been under $3 and 5 minutes to fix.
I guess I couldn't convince myself a plug would be bad after less than 2,000 miles. So lesson learned is when you have a problem of any sort, spend the $12 on new spark plugs whether you think you need them or not.
Now I gotta reinstall the fuel injector that was in the truck so I can return the new one. That's tomorrow's project.
I guess I couldn't convince myself a plug would be bad after less than 2,000 miles. So lesson learned is when you have a problem of any sort, spend the $12 on new spark plugs whether you think you need them or not.
Now I gotta reinstall the fuel injector that was in the truck so I can return the new one. That's tomorrow's project.
#31
I believe the truck runs best on the Denso or NGK plugs. The system is designed to use them, and they work best for both power, and mileage. Definitely NOT the Bosch plugs. Those are designed for European vehicles, not the Japanese systems. It matters.
Easy to find on Rock Auto, or the Toyota site. Personally, I go with the iridium plugs. They still have the right characteristics to fit the system, but they last forever. Well, maybe not FOREVER, but you know what I mean. Once again, though, use the Denso or NGK version.
By the same token, I put a set of Platinum Plus 4's in my pickup, and I've gotten about 120k miles on them so far, and they're still going strong. Those are getting harder and harder to find these days, being superceded by newer kinds of plugs, like the E3 plugs. I tried set of those, BTW. The pickup loves them, more power and great mileage. The 4Runner, well, the power is there, but the mileage dropped way down, so I put the Denso's back into it.
Just my experiences, for what they're worth.
Pat☺
Easy to find on Rock Auto, or the Toyota site. Personally, I go with the iridium plugs. They still have the right characteristics to fit the system, but they last forever. Well, maybe not FOREVER, but you know what I mean. Once again, though, use the Denso or NGK version.
By the same token, I put a set of Platinum Plus 4's in my pickup, and I've gotten about 120k miles on them so far, and they're still going strong. Those are getting harder and harder to find these days, being superceded by newer kinds of plugs, like the E3 plugs. I tried set of those, BTW. The pickup loves them, more power and great mileage. The 4Runner, well, the power is there, but the mileage dropped way down, so I put the Denso's back into it.
Just my experiences, for what they're worth.
Pat☺
#32
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I've always run Denso or NGK conventional plugs. Denso 3031 or NGK 1233. I ran Denso iridium plugs for a brief period but I think I sold that truck. I don't remember any difference and they don't seem like they are worth the cost. I would not recommend any twin or quadruple spark gimmick or the E3 plugs.
#33
I think the big deal about the iridium plugs isn't performance or mileage. They last forever is what they're all about. OK, not forever, but a lot longer than regular plugs.
Actually, they do improve performance and mileage, but only after a fairly long period of time. In other words, when a regular plug's capabilities would start to degrade due to the center electrode wearing down, as they do on regular plugs over time, the iridium plugs would still have performance as if they were new. Just installed, new out of the box. The iridium coated center electrode erodes much more slowly.
So, yes, they cost more, but you wouldn't have to buy new sets of normal plugs during their lifetime. It's a balancing act. Will they last long enough to pay for themselves by preventing the need to purchase the lower cost plugs when you normally would. Lets say they last as long as 3 sets of normal plugs. Do they cost 3 times as much as a set of regular plugs?
That's the whole iridium deal, is all. They last at "like new" performance a lot longer than normal plugs.
IIRC, NGK and Denso do make iridium plugs that work fine in our trucks. Exactly the same as the normal plugs, just a lot longer, is all.
Pat☺
Actually, they do improve performance and mileage, but only after a fairly long period of time. In other words, when a regular plug's capabilities would start to degrade due to the center electrode wearing down, as they do on regular plugs over time, the iridium plugs would still have performance as if they were new. Just installed, new out of the box. The iridium coated center electrode erodes much more slowly.
So, yes, they cost more, but you wouldn't have to buy new sets of normal plugs during their lifetime. It's a balancing act. Will they last long enough to pay for themselves by preventing the need to purchase the lower cost plugs when you normally would. Lets say they last as long as 3 sets of normal plugs. Do they cost 3 times as much as a set of regular plugs?
That's the whole iridium deal, is all. They last at "like new" performance a lot longer than normal plugs.
IIRC, NGK and Denso do make iridium plugs that work fine in our trucks. Exactly the same as the normal plugs, just a lot longer, is all.
Pat☺
#34
in '87 4runner #1 (at 198K miles), i've got over 45K on the current set of plugs (oem via the local dealership). i'll probably put in some new ones for the next oil change, as i noticed about a month ago that two of the four had slightly worn center electrodes. still, not bad for miles on a set of "plain" plugs!
edit: lol, i just looked at my records, plugs have 98k on them, last replaced at 100K miles in 2013. yeah, not bad for "standard" oem plugs.
edit: lol, i just looked at my records, plugs have 98k on them, last replaced at 100K miles in 2013. yeah, not bad for "standard" oem plugs.
Last edited by wallytoo; 12-14-2020 at 03:53 PM.
#35
Not bad at all!
My question would be though, WHY are only 2 worn down like that? Tells me those two are getting a stronger spark than the other two. Why? Do two of the wires have higher impedance than the other two? Are two of the distributor terminals not making good connection to the wires? Are there two distributor cap inside terminals with a build up of corrosion, dirt, whatever? Do two wires make better connection to the spark plugs themselves? Do two wires "leak" power? Easy to see. Start the truck in the dark, and just look. Chances are, if you have a power 'leak" from the wires to ground, you'll see it. A spark from the wire to a ground. The head, or wherever. Or pulses running on the outside of the wires. Really a pretty show, but not good for a good spark. Same for the distributor cap. I've seen pulses running across the outside of the distributor. Not a good thing to see. Do two of the plugs ground to the head better? IE: Are the threads of the two not worn down, dirty?
With two plugs not getting as strong a spark as the other two, you're loosing power from the engine. Two cylinders whose plugs aren't as worn aren't burning as well as the two that are worn down. I'd wonder why-how-come-for??
If I were you, which I'm not, of course, I'd be curious to find out what's going on with two of my plugs. Just me, though.
Ok, I'll shut my face now...
Pat☺
My question would be though, WHY are only 2 worn down like that? Tells me those two are getting a stronger spark than the other two. Why? Do two of the wires have higher impedance than the other two? Are two of the distributor terminals not making good connection to the wires? Are there two distributor cap inside terminals with a build up of corrosion, dirt, whatever? Do two wires make better connection to the spark plugs themselves? Do two wires "leak" power? Easy to see. Start the truck in the dark, and just look. Chances are, if you have a power 'leak" from the wires to ground, you'll see it. A spark from the wire to a ground. The head, or wherever. Or pulses running on the outside of the wires. Really a pretty show, but not good for a good spark. Same for the distributor cap. I've seen pulses running across the outside of the distributor. Not a good thing to see. Do two of the plugs ground to the head better? IE: Are the threads of the two not worn down, dirty?
With two plugs not getting as strong a spark as the other two, you're loosing power from the engine. Two cylinders whose plugs aren't as worn aren't burning as well as the two that are worn down. I'd wonder why-how-come-for??
If I were you, which I'm not, of course, I'd be curious to find out what's going on with two of my plugs. Just me, though.
Ok, I'll shut my face now...
Pat☺
#36
eh, at 100k miles, i'm not concerned with the differences (minor) in electrode wear. truck idles nicely, starts readily in sub-zero weather, and i routinely get between 18 and 22 mpg per tank, including off-road.
i'm sure there is a reason the electrodes wore differently, but i'm not really able to determine the reason. i have, on numerous occasions, looked for spark trails at night. not seeing them, and i have seen them on some of my previous cars/trucks.
i'm sure there is a reason the electrodes wore differently, but i'm not really able to determine the reason. i have, on numerous occasions, looked for spark trails at night. not seeing them, and i have seen them on some of my previous cars/trucks.
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