Let's discuss brake fluid in our non-ABS trucks...
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Let's discuss brake fluid in our non-ABS trucks...
I am thinking of switching to the silicone-base DOT-5, as it is the least prone to water absorption from what I read. What are the disadvantages of DOT-5 in a non-ABS brake system? I care more about longevity over the boiling-point rating since I am never hard on the brakes and our trucks are not racers!
As far as glycol-based DOT 3,4 or 5.1, which one is best for the least amount of water absorption? I read all different theories on what is best for longevity.
What are you guys using and why? Thanks
As far as glycol-based DOT 3,4 or 5.1, which one is best for the least amount of water absorption? I read all different theories on what is best for longevity.
What are you guys using and why? Thanks
#2
Registered User
I just use DOT 3 because that is what Toyota specified for these trucks.
I really haven't thought about switching to anything other than DOT 3, so I don't know what would be best.
I did recently buy a DOT 3 specific water content meter, but I haven't tried it out yet: https://www.otctools.com/products/br...d-tester-dot-3
I am sure I am overdue to replace the fluid.
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Paul22RE (01-17-2021)
#3
Registered User
I use the dot3 for the same reason. It's what Toyota specs.
Having said that, the DOT5 silicone wasn't available thn. It's entirely possible it's a better choice. I can't say. Sounds to me like it might be, though.
Pat☺
Having said that, the DOT5 silicone wasn't available thn. It's entirely possible it's a better choice. I can't say. Sounds to me like it might be, though.
Pat☺
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Paul22RE (01-17-2021)
#4
Registered User
Silicone based brake fluids should NEVER be used in ANY engine vacuum operated power brake system.
Most systems that call for silicone are electric, or engine driven hydraulic assist/
If the silicone fluid is aspirated into the engine, as in master cylinder cup failure; it combusts into super abrasive silicas. This equals ENGINE DEATH.
Use regular DOT 3 or DOT 4 glycol based fluids and change it out when it gets dark.
Silicone can be a good upgrade in antique and classic cars that do not have vacuum boost.
Most systems that call for silicone are electric, or engine driven hydraulic assist/
If the silicone fluid is aspirated into the engine, as in master cylinder cup failure; it combusts into super abrasive silicas. This equals ENGINE DEATH.
Use regular DOT 3 or DOT 4 glycol based fluids and change it out when it gets dark.
Silicone can be a good upgrade in antique and classic cars that do not have vacuum boost.
Last edited by millball; 01-17-2021 at 12:02 PM.
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
#6
Registered User
I am thinking of switching to the silicone-base DOT-5, as it is the least prone to water absorption from what I read. What are the disadvantages of DOT-5 in a non-ABS brake system? I care more about longevity over the boiling-point rating since I am never hard on the brakes and our trucks are not racers!
As far as glycol-based DOT 3,4 or 5.1, which one is best for the least amount of water absorption? I read all different theories on what is best for longevity.
What are you guys using and why? Thanks
As far as glycol-based DOT 3,4 or 5.1, which one is best for the least amount of water absorption? I read all different theories on what is best for longevity.
What are you guys using and why? Thanks
A brake system with no air in it should self bleed, just by opening a bleeder. I start by syphoning the master cylinder reservoir and mopping it clean with a lint-free cotton rag,
then fill with clean fluid and bleed every wheel 'til the fluid runs clean. Longest line to shortest. Only ONE bleeder open at a time.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
I use this to bleed, works great: https://capritools.com/shop/vacuum-brake-bleeder/
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#9
Pneumatic type from Harbor Freight has never let me down. Made in Taiwan, and it's good quality. Reasonable price especially with coupon discounts.
https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...=brake+bleeder
https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...=brake+bleeder
#10
Registered User
I may sound like a broken record, but don't forget thee LPSV when you bleed the system for any reason. A lot of folks forget it, and don't bleed it when they do the brakes.
Just a thought.
Pat☺
Just a thought.
Pat☺
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#11
YT Community Team
I recently took my LSPV out and diassembled. It was a gunky mess. Cleaned up pretty easily though, there's not much to it once you get it apart.
I just got a compressed air bleeder. Works great, but I needed to put some grease around the bleeder threads to keep it from sucking air
I just got a compressed air bleeder. Works great, but I needed to put some grease around the bleeder threads to keep it from sucking air
Last edited by Jimkola; 01-18-2021 at 03:27 PM.
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Paul22RE (01-18-2021)
#14
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iTrader: (1)
no fluid at either of the rear wheel cylinders with the bleeders open. when i removed the LSPV bleeder, a little bit of fluid dribbled out. i used stripped solid wire to poke into the LSPV bleeder opening, and eventually fluid began to flow out a bit more readily. let it flow until clear, then put the bleeder back in and closed it. at this point, refilled the master, then checked at the rear cylinders; success, fluid now there.
bled the entire system, and have had working brakes ever since. entirely via gravity bleeding.
Last edited by wallytoo; 01-19-2021 at 04:13 AM.
#15
Registered User
Ba-dum bum BUMP! (rim-shot, I guess)
I know, stupid joke. Sorry about that.
Carry on, all!
Pat☺
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