Notices
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Let's discuss brake fluid in our non-ABS trucks...

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-17-2021, 07:48 AM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Paul22RE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: NNJ
Posts: 603
Received 158 Likes on 101 Posts
Let's discuss brake fluid in our non-ABS trucks...

I am thinking of switching to the silicone-base DOT-5, as it is the least prone to water absorption from what I read. What are the disadvantages of DOT-5 in a non-ABS brake system? I care more about longevity over the boiling-point rating since I am never hard on the brakes and our trucks are not racers!

As far as glycol-based DOT 3,4 or 5.1, which one is best for the least amount of water absorption? I read all different theories on what is best for longevity.

What are you guys using and why? Thanks
Old 01-17-2021, 08:18 AM
  #2  
Registered User
 
old87yota's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Portland, Oregon, USA
Posts: 3,095
Received 575 Likes on 453 Posts


I just use DOT 3 because that is what Toyota specified for these trucks.

I really haven't thought about switching to anything other than DOT 3, so I don't know what would be best.

I did recently buy a DOT 3 specific water content meter, but I haven't tried it out yet: https://www.otctools.com/products/br...d-tester-dot-3

I am sure I am overdue to replace the fluid.

The following users liked this post:
Paul22RE (01-17-2021)
Old 01-17-2021, 11:42 AM
  #3  
Registered User
 
2ToyGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Chiloquin, OR
Posts: 2,312
Received 647 Likes on 522 Posts
I use the dot3 for the same reason. It's what Toyota specs.
Having said that, the DOT5 silicone wasn't available thn. It's entirely possible it's a better choice. I can't say. Sounds to me like it might be, though.

Pat☺
The following users liked this post:
Paul22RE (01-17-2021)
Old 01-17-2021, 11:59 AM
  #4  
Registered User
 
millball's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Southern Arizona
Posts: 4,148
Received 631 Likes on 461 Posts
Silicone based brake fluids should NEVER be used in ANY engine vacuum operated power brake system.

Most systems that call for silicone are electric, or engine driven hydraulic assist/

If the silicone fluid is aspirated into the engine, as in master cylinder cup failure; it combusts into super abrasive silicas. This equals ENGINE DEATH.

Use regular DOT 3 or DOT 4 glycol based fluids and change it out when it gets dark.

Silicone can be a good upgrade in antique and classic cars that do not have vacuum boost.

Last edited by millball; 01-17-2021 at 12:02 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by millball:
old87yota (01-17-2021), Paul22RE (01-17-2021)
Old 01-17-2021, 12:02 PM
  #5  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Paul22RE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: NNJ
Posts: 603
Received 158 Likes on 101 Posts
Originally Posted by millball
Silicone based brake fluids should NEVER be used in ANY engine vacuum operated power brake system.
Wow, good info! Never knew that.
Old 01-17-2021, 12:13 PM
  #6  
Registered User
 
millball's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Southern Arizona
Posts: 4,148
Received 631 Likes on 461 Posts
Originally Posted by Paul22RE
I am thinking of switching to the silicone-base DOT-5, as it is the least prone to water absorption from what I read. What are the disadvantages of DOT-5 in a non-ABS brake system? I care more about longevity over the boiling-point rating since I am never hard on the brakes and our trucks are not racers!

As far as glycol-based DOT 3,4 or 5.1, which one is best for the least amount of water absorption? I read all different theories on what is best for longevity.

What are you guys using and why? Thanks
Either DOT 3 or DOT 4 is fine. Longevity is decent with either , so long as the system itself is clean and uncorroded. Change it out when it gets dark.

A brake system with no air in it should self bleed, just by opening a bleeder. I start by syphoning the master cylinder reservoir and mopping it clean with a lint-free cotton rag,
then fill with clean fluid and bleed every wheel 'til the fluid runs clean. Longest line to shortest. Only ONE bleeder open at a time.
The following 2 users liked this post by millball:
old87yota (01-17-2021), Paul22RE (01-17-2021)
Old 01-17-2021, 03:10 PM
  #7  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Paul22RE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: NNJ
Posts: 603
Received 158 Likes on 101 Posts
I use this to bleed, works great: https://capritools.com/shop/vacuum-brake-bleeder/
Old 01-17-2021, 05:28 PM
  #8  
Registered User
 
Blueman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 322
Received 119 Likes on 89 Posts
I use this one, and have been quite happy with it:
Amazon Amazon

Motive Products - 0101 Round Universal Brake System Power Bleeder
Old 01-18-2021, 04:51 AM
  #9  
Registered User
 
snippits's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 590
Received 139 Likes on 119 Posts
Pneumatic type from Harbor Freight has never let me down. Made in Taiwan, and it's good quality. Reasonable price especially with coupon discounts.


https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...=brake+bleeder
Old 01-18-2021, 10:49 AM
  #10  
Registered User
 
2ToyGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Chiloquin, OR
Posts: 2,312
Received 647 Likes on 522 Posts
I may sound like a broken record, but don't forget thee LPSV when you bleed the system for any reason. A lot of folks forget it, and don't bleed it when they do the brakes.

Just a thought.
Pat☺
The following 4 users liked this post by 2ToyGuy:
Jimkola (01-18-2021), old87yota (01-18-2021), Paul22RE (01-18-2021), swampedout (01-18-2021)
Old 01-18-2021, 03:24 PM
  #11  
YT Community Team
 
Jimkola's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: California
Posts: 1,981
Received 907 Likes on 647 Posts
I recently took my LSPV out and diassembled. It was a gunky mess. Cleaned up pretty easily though, there's not much to it once you get it apart.
I just got a compressed air bleeder. Works great, but I needed to put some grease around the bleeder threads to keep it from sucking air

Last edited by Jimkola; 01-18-2021 at 03:27 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Paul22RE (01-18-2021)
Old 01-18-2021, 03:31 PM
  #12  
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
wallytoo's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: nh
Posts: 1,896
Likes: 0
Received 811 Likes on 532 Posts
the entire brake system from the master back can be gravity-bled, without anything other than the correct size bleeder wrench/socket. no pumping the pedal, no helper needed, just patience and fresh brake fluid.
The following 3 users liked this post by wallytoo:
5 Fists (01-18-2021), old87yota (01-18-2021), Paul22RE (01-18-2021)
Old 01-18-2021, 10:29 PM
  #13  
Registered User
 
RAD4Runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 7,090
Received 670 Likes on 459 Posts
Originally Posted by Paul22RE
...Theories...
...what is best for longevity.
Theories are fine but I trust the kind that lasted 30+ years in real-life better
The following users liked this post:
Paul22RE (01-19-2021)
Old 01-19-2021, 02:47 AM
  #14  
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
wallytoo's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: nh
Posts: 1,896
Likes: 0
Received 811 Likes on 532 Posts
Originally Posted by 2ToyGuy
I may sound like a broken record, but don't forget thee LPSV when you bleed the system for any reason. A lot of folks forget it, and don't bleed it when they do the brakes.

Just a thought.
Pat☺
i can attest to this. when i bought 4runner number 2, the rear brakes didn’t work, although the parking brake did work. thus, at least the mechanical parts of the system were operable.

no fluid at either of the rear wheel cylinders with the bleeders open. when i removed the LSPV bleeder, a little bit of fluid dribbled out. i used stripped solid wire to poke into the LSPV bleeder opening, and eventually fluid began to flow out a bit more readily. let it flow until clear, then put the bleeder back in and closed it. at this point, refilled the master, then checked at the rear cylinders; success, fluid now there.

bled the entire system, and have had working brakes ever since. entirely via gravity bleeding.

Last edited by wallytoo; 01-19-2021 at 04:13 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by wallytoo:
2ToyGuy (01-19-2021), Paul22RE (01-19-2021)
Old 01-19-2021, 12:03 PM
  #15  
Registered User
 
2ToyGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Chiloquin, OR
Posts: 2,312
Received 647 Likes on 522 Posts
Originally Posted by wallytoo
the entire brake system from the master back can be gravity-bled, without anything other than the correct size bleeder wrench/socket. no pumping the pedal, no helper needed, just patience and fresh brake fluid.
Ya know, I had to quit medical school. I had no <ahem>patience<ahem>.
Ba-dum bum BUMP! (rim-shot, I guess)

I know, stupid joke. Sorry about that.
Carry on, all!
Pat☺
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
5 Fists
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
7
12-29-2019 03:28 PM
ISFast
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
10
02-21-2010 02:38 PM
twitchee2
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
17
02-14-2010 12:39 PM
ted
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
3
06-16-2009 11:35 PM
taikowaza
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
10
07-13-2008 06:50 AM



Quick Reply: Let's discuss brake fluid in our non-ABS trucks...



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 11:35 PM.