lc engineering lean/rich controller
#1
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lc engineering lean/rich controller
I did search on this but found nothing...
I purchased this when i put a lc header on my 22re 2wd truck it piggybacks the computer and lets you adjust the (i assume the IAT)...has anyone used this and do you think it will help with the infamous lean condition these 3.0 v6 motors have
BTW i have a k&n cone filter on the end of the vafm with downey headers and flowmaster muffler....
I purchased this when i put a lc header on my 22re 2wd truck it piggybacks the computer and lets you adjust the (i assume the IAT)...has anyone used this and do you think it will help with the infamous lean condition these 3.0 v6 motors have
BTW i have a k&n cone filter on the end of the vafm with downey headers and flowmaster muffler....
#2
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here is a link to what i am talking about
http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGe...artRevisionID=
the instructions say i can wire it up to the 3.0 also
http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGe...artRevisionID=
the instructions say i can wire it up to the 3.0 also
#4
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Austin, TX
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I wouldn't use that guy. You can damage your catalytic converters, if you still have em, by running rich. You will cook the motor if you lean it out. You need an accurate wideband O2 sensor to accurately set something like that. And it isn't something you can just turn up or down on the fly. There are physical limitations that box can't overcome like injector size, fuel pressure, and the 20%-min/max adjustment of the stock computer.
This "controller" simply tricks the factory ECU into running in weird conditions. If you want to control the fuel injection properly you have to install a stand-alone. And thousands of dollars of other pieces as well....
This "controller" simply tricks the factory ECU into running in weird conditions. If you want to control the fuel injection properly you have to install a stand-alone. And thousands of dollars of other pieces as well....
#5
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I'm pretty sure the headers actually make it run rich rather than lean. You are going to need a wide-band meter in addition to any sort of piggy-back device.
Did you ever notice how many people (including myself) say their trucks run much better when they are cold as opposed to warmed up? That's a screaming indication of a rich condition. To combat this on my truck I have done what we could call a reverse ECT mod. I trick the ECU into thinking the truck is warmer than it really is. My fuel economy number although terrible are noticeably better with the change and the difference between hot and cold performance is much less obvious. I used a variable Pot (100 ohm I think) on mine so I can adjust just how much resistance I dial in or just turn the pot off and have it like there is no mod at all. I put the pot in parallel with the temp meter to ground so I can reduce the resistance the ECU senses in the temp sender therefor thinking the engine is warmer than it really is and leaning the mixture a little. I think the basis for this is that the headers allow the engine to run cooler than the cast iron manifolds do so temp sensor being located up on top of the motor never gets a chance to reach full temp. Basically the truck runs in warm up mode most of the time. Even though the Throttle body has stopped the warm up air bypass this does not mean that the ecu has gone into "warmed up" fuel maps.
sheesh if thats not confusing huh???
I guess I will quit yacking now....
Did you ever notice how many people (including myself) say their trucks run much better when they are cold as opposed to warmed up? That's a screaming indication of a rich condition. To combat this on my truck I have done what we could call a reverse ECT mod. I trick the ECU into thinking the truck is warmer than it really is. My fuel economy number although terrible are noticeably better with the change and the difference between hot and cold performance is much less obvious. I used a variable Pot (100 ohm I think) on mine so I can adjust just how much resistance I dial in or just turn the pot off and have it like there is no mod at all. I put the pot in parallel with the temp meter to ground so I can reduce the resistance the ECU senses in the temp sender therefor thinking the engine is warmer than it really is and leaning the mixture a little. I think the basis for this is that the headers allow the engine to run cooler than the cast iron manifolds do so temp sensor being located up on top of the motor never gets a chance to reach full temp. Basically the truck runs in warm up mode most of the time. Even though the Throttle body has stopped the warm up air bypass this does not mean that the ecu has gone into "warmed up" fuel maps.
sheesh if thats not confusing huh???
I guess I will quit yacking now....
#6
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Thread Starter
great insight...maybe this is what it does i will double check the instructions tonight and see what sensor it is tapping into and let you guys know.....
thanks
thanks
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