jwicker

Latest update:
Had some time to fit in a front end alignment yesterday afternoon. The steering wheel was not centered and with the new tires, I didn't want to ruin with them as I have no knowledge of what the previous owner might have had done.
So I stop by the tire place in the next town and they pull it into the bay.
Not long until they pull it back out.
Seems the right upper ball joint is too worn for them to align the truck.
They quoted me $425 to do the work.
They said it takes 3.1 hours.
That seems crazy. Were they trying to go through the muffler to get to it?

I ordered a new ball joint from Amazon for $41 delivered.

Just how long will this take?
I'm pretty mechanically inclined.

What says the group here?
3 hours for a single upper ball joint?

I also got the spare tire hoist swapped out last night and the tire is safely under the bed.


Thanks
jw

gsp4life

I agree the shop quote sounds high and I'd expect nothing less. Many of us are here because we ran out of money at one point or another, myself included.

When I do my own work, I spend extra time cleaning things up so often it takes more time than it would for a shop to throw a part at it, but I always end up glad I fixed it myself. That said, you could probably change it in an hour, assuming you had the right tools and knew the steps ahead of time.

akwheeler

I suspect the labor time may include an alignment, but you need to watch out for "add ons". I had to have my girlfriend take my Suburban to a shop when I was out of town and I just paid the bill over the phone. when I got back and looked at the invoice I found that they had over-charged me by about an hour labor since the time listed even said on their invoice "deduct .9 if done in conjunction with an alignment" and they charged .2 extra for removing the stock front diff skid plate to replace a tie rod end that broke (there is no need to remove it for that repair unless you are too lazy to turn the steering wheel).
When you do get an alignment make sure you get and keep a printout. if you have any issues with a pull or tire wear it can help figure out why.

jwicker

================================================== ===

Thanks to both of you for the good advice.
The quote did, indeed, include an alignment but that was only $60.
The 3.1 hours seems crazy to me.

I found two types of procedures for the UBJ removal.
One included renting tools and separating them with a puller.
The other included forcing the upper control arm off of the UBJ with a bottle jack.

Any thoughts one way or the other on this?

Here are the two YT vids I am referencing:

thanks
jw

jwicker

I got my fuel pressure check port installed today at the cold start injector location with a combination of LCE banjo bolt and crush washers and the Diesel ORings Schrader valve.
Applied some Rector Seal thread pipe dope and so far no leaks.
I haven't checked the pressure yet, but maybe tomorrow.

I also added the missing green 'light bulb condom' behind the AC heater controls.
Waiting on my OEM digital clock arriving tomorrow.
Moving right along.

jw

akwheeler

In case you didn't notice your videos are for two different vehicles with distinctly different ball joints.

jwicker

Thanks, AK.

Can you (or anyone else) comment on whether the video for the pickup/4runner is the preferred (or at least an accepted) procedure?
Seems like a logical way to approach the replacement, but I've never done one.

Thanks in advance,
jw

akwheeler

I can't watch the video right now, but I can tell you that if your ball joint is bolted to the control arm all you really need is wrenches and a hammer. If you have trouble getting the tapered shaft out on the steering knuckle by hitting the knuckle next to the shaft use a pickle fork ball joint/tie rod separator (only recommended if you are REPLACING the joint). Just make sure that when you remove the cotter pin (or just break it and run the nut off over it) that you completely remove the castle nut then re-install it finger tight so that when you bust the tapered shaft loose things don't go flying when the suspension spring tension unloads and so you are sure you can get the nut all the way off (I've had them stuck 1/2 off before with the shaft spinning, that's why I stress "finger tight").

Melrose 4r

Notice with the Bottle Jack method, he has the shock absorber removed also.
Since you are only doing the upper, it will be an easier job.
AKWheeler outlines all the steps above.
I would add, with the truck on a jackstand under the frame, you can use a floor jack and approx 24" 2x4 to put upward force on the upper control arm.
You may need this if the upper control bushings are very hard to move. Also you are working against the torsion bar since it acts on the upper control arm.
But once you get the big nut on the upper ball joint off and the ball joint separated from the spindle by hammer or pickel fork, it's all downhill from there.
Be advised all pickle forks are not created equal. If the spacing is not optimal for the ball joint, it won't work well. Most parts stores loan them if you don't have one.
If it's the right size, a couple firm whacks with a hammer and you are done with it. Be safe!

jwicker

Thanks, AK.
The Cliff's Notes version of the video simply shows the guy removing the nut from the UBJ, his sway bar and shock and simply using a bottle jack to force the control arms apart and dropping the steering knuckle from the ball joint.

Just looking for insight.

thanks
jw

Melrose 4r

Here's a photo of what I did. Installing BJ spacers at the time.

akwheeler

The other consideration that they are likely showing is that the torsion spring is attached to the upper control arm and it is pushing down, so they are using the jack to push up. You can put a chunk of 2x4 between the upper control arm bump stop and the frame where it hits before you jack the truck up and you won't have any problem with that.

jwicker

Thanks, Melrose 4r.

I'm not sure I'll get to it this weekend, but I hope to.
The tires are way too new to go around all wonky like.

I'm just hoping the shop was right that only the right upper was worn.
I can't imagine them NOT checking them all since they were trying to drum up some service business.

I'll start with the right upper ball joint and see where it goes from there.

Thanks all for the continued good information !
jw

jwicker

Melrose,

Did you have to remove the sway bar or the shock when you did this with the 2x4?
I can't make it out on this small screen.

thanks
jw

jwicker

I opted to at least swap the lower ball joint on the passenger side at the same time.
I hope to work on it this weekend.
The LBJ should be delivered this afternoon.

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

I just hammer a 2x4 or something under the upper control arm, jack it up, take the wheel off and the upper BJ nut. Spank with big hammer as needed and it pops out. Or use a pickle fork, since you are not re using it.

jwicker

Thanks. I was able to get the upper and lower passenger side ball joints replaced.
They came out relatively easy - but the sway bar link was seized up and the bolt broke trying to free up the nut.
I was able to get a replacement locally for about $6. I went ahead and got one for the driver side as it will likely snap when the time comes to replace the ball joints on that side.

I now have a stuck piston on the passenger side caliper.
I have two new ones awaiting installation. Maybe this weekend since rain is in the forecast all weekend.

I also noticed that the rear passenger side is drooping. The passenger side front is also about 1.5" lower as well.
I jacked up the rear by the center hoghead to get that measurement.
I then jacked up the front to take the strain off of the torsion bars but the adjusting nut/bolt is also seized.
Assuming the bolt will break and send the top portion through the floorpan, I went ahead and ordered OEM replacement parts for the torsion bar adjustments.
I'll torch off the portion of the bolt sticking above the top adjustment nut so it's less pointed and wedge a piece of hardwood between the bolt and the floorpan before torching the bolt in half or grinding the head off.
Should make a nice loud BANG ! I hope I can keep my shorts clean when it all lets loose.

More updates to come.

bendiesel76

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Injectors get blocked, fairly common on old rigs. Also don't dismiss a broken wire. It should be throwing a code or 2. Jump the diagnostic port and count the flashes. Let us know what you find. Use the search feature to figure out how to check for codes and how to read them.

Edit: also go to the newbie section and click on the stickies tab. Watch the short video it will help you a lot when navigating this site. It also has some of the highest view levels on the site.

bendiesel76