akwheeler

I'll send you my bill !!! even a blind squirrel gets a nut every now and then.

jwicker

Better hold that bill and start me a tab......
.... she ain't done yet.
More TLC is definitely in order for this old '94.
It's a beater with a heater on it's way to greatness.
LOL

jwicker

Just got the word from the mechanic....
Alternator bearing is shot and exhaust manifold cracked.
These are causing the chirp and noisy exhaust leak.
Also - when the engine was put in, the distributor was put in a tooth off and timing is off a bit and at the end of available adjustment.

My check engine codes are from bad O2 and missing cat converter.
I'll work on those as my wallet fattens up again.

They also going to adjust the valves since it is there and only a small amount of labor.

The tech is also going to do a quick spot check on the vacuum lines as compared to his 22re also in a '94 truck.
(His looks better as it's sitting on 35's and not as many dents)

More updates as I get them.

Melrose 4r

gsp4life

Somewhere in the fsm, it states to crank for 5 rotations when checking compression. I have used between 5 and 10 rotations in the past and got very similar numbers, so I think the idea Toyota had is to have the least amount of dry cranks that'll still give a good reading.

the exhaust manifold can be welded, but the aftermarket ones aren't terrible either. I've been running a Dorman that a Meineke installed back in 2012 and it's still going strong. I had it machined flat after an overheat in 2016 and when I got it back, I sanded down some rough spots in the casting that had caused the manifold nuts to not torque down right (this actually caused some pulled threads in the head!). If you buy a new one, check around each hole where a stud passes through to make sure it's smooth and flat. If not, use a Dremel to fix it.

Replacing the O2 sensor and cat should be very cheap if you find the right shop. Look for one of those mom-and-pop type exhaust shops or even a welder looking for work on Craigslist. A new cat for these trucks can be as little as $40 and don't use a Bosch O2 sensor, always Denso!

​​​​​​Keep it up, looks like you're getting close to having this thing right.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

The 88 fsm only Stated a minimum rpm of 250, nothing about how many revolution. It does have a note I find odd, it warns of overheating the cat, that doesn't make sense if the injectors and ignition is unplugged which are the previous steps.

old87yota

The note is probably for the 22R carbureted engines. Fuel can still enter the engine through the carburetor unless the fuel bowl is empty and the fuel line from the tank to the pump is disconnected.

It does not make sense for the 22R-E though.

jwicker

Thanks, guys, for the words of encouragement.
The money spent will be worth it in the long run.

The alternator was a little pricey compared to the last one I bought (who knows how long ago?!).
I think he quoted me $190.00 plus labor.
I'm sure I could have swapped it out, but my old knees and ankles don't like it when I crawl around, up and down, when doing that stuff anymore.

I think I'm most excited about the mechanic visually comparing my vacuum lines to his for any goof ups on the engine swap.
That's just not something a lot of shops can provide.
Looks like I'll be following the mechanic if he jumps ship anytime and finds a new shop.

I'm hoping it is done tomorrow afternoon and I can pick it up.

I was quoted $200 for a cat and install from two local shops.
Probably needs a new tailpipe and O2 sensor bung while we are at it....
But we'll see how my wallet looks in a few weeks.

Thanks for the continued info and support.
jw

jwicker

The truck is home. Finally.
And, boy ! What a difference !

They replaced the alternator and the cracked manifold and tweaked the distributor and set the timing.
Runs pretty doggone good.

They chose NOT to adjust the valves as I was told the motor only had 1,000 miles on it.
They asked me to bring it back after 3,000 additional miles and they would knock it out quickly for me.

With the exhaust leak and the alternator squeal fixed, I can definitely hear the rocker arm chatter.
The CEL is also still lit.
The O2 is shot and the cat was scrapped and piped over.

I'll resolve both in the coming weeks to (hopefully) clear the check engine.

I topped off my tank to brim, so I imagine it's puking gas out of the canister right now.....
LOL

But at least that will stop in a few more miles (if the evap fume tube is sucking liquid at that level).

Thanks, all, for the continued assistance and interest.
jw

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

O2 sensor is cheap and easy and usually fixes a lot of random codes. On my 85 I was tripping 3,4,5 and/or 4,5,6 totally random i know. Put a new O2 sensor in and no more codes. Doesn't make any sense to me but it solved my problem.

Not sire where your O2 sensor plug in to but if its still there, then it should be an easy fix. The night before your going to do it spray it with a PB Blaster or Deep Creep type product at least once before you rack out. Then once when you get up in the morning. You then should be able to break it loose fairly easily.

jwicker

So - I took the truck to the exhaust place yesterday right after work.
I was a little rushed to get there before he closed and still had time to cut out the pipe and weld in a new catalytic converter.
(I'm no welder, for sure)

Well - I got the new Denso O2 sensor in last night after I got back.
Crawled under the truck just now and looks like the previous owner snapped off one of the studs on the bung.
Neither I nor the muffler guy noticed.
I suppose I'll try to get back to the exhaust place to cut out that bung and put in a new one or a new piece of pipe with a new bung in it.

I've got the O2 sensor in the glove box so we should be able to confirm fitment.

Inching closer to clearing the CEL and finally enjoying the truck for a while.

I might even try one of those paintless dent repair places for some of the bumps and bruises.

One day at a time.

jw

jwicker

Alright, alright, alright......
Got the new O2 bung/pipe welded in and a small exhaust leak in the catalytic converter weld done this afternoon.
New O2 sensor is in and seems to be working like a dream come true.
ha
CEL has vanished.
And good riddance.

So - now time to enjoy the truck and then (someday) start working on the dented panels and some bed liner.
Bed liner will prob come first.
My Dad is pretty handy with a hammer and dolly - so some of those dents might vanish as well.
Of course, he is 76 so he doesn't move too fast these days.
Maybe he can teach this old dog a new trick or two when it comes to body work.

jw

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Bad O2 sensors do funny things to these old trucks. Glad its working now.

scope103

You're lucky -- on a lot of levels. Make use of that luck. While you can.

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

Ok; fuel system sounds like junk. 14mpg is all I get around town and mostly cold driving (8 miles to work) Now this is not cheap or real easy but its one and done. The vent line from the gas tank goes to the canister and then to a VSV and vacuum port on the back of the manifold. It never connects to a fuel source. Also your PCV is shot. On mine that's a horse I gave up on, the rubber went hard the valve shot and Its a battle I do not want to fight. Sounds like your is plugged and you need to do battle Royale to get the rubber & PCV out and replaced along with a new hose and clamps. You will need a hammer and multiple sizes of screwdrivers and pliers, plan for the worst, wear gloves.

Now the back or the fuel rail is the pressure regulator, it goes to a VSV and port vacuum on the manifold and has an electrical connector, make sure you get the right VSV or your fuel pressure will be high and you will get gas in oil and rotten MPG's and scrap the engine if it goes on too long. Spend time and get the right line to the right VSV that's cheap and it needs to be done first. Get new vacuum hose the old is junk do not try to save money here.

Next you will replace the fuel pump and all the lines with -6AN and fittings, some where is my post about how to do this.

jwicker

Thanks, scope103. I agree on my luck with both my parents still doing moderately well for their age.

skypilot - thanks for the suggestions, but I wonder if you replied to the correct thread. If so, then I will definitely check the Fuel Pressure VSV.
I'll try to find the test procedure in the FSM. That's a good idea even if you were replying to another thread and found this one by mistake.
The only reason I think you might have replied to this thread by mistake is that I've already fixed the PCV valve and hose and charcoal canister issues.

Does anyone have a part number for the OEM Fuel Pressure VSV (or an aftermarket replacement)?

My fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump both tested fine at the last mechanic I took the truck to.
I have purchased the correct fittings to add a fuel pressure test port to the cold start injector.
Maybe I'll get to that this weekend.

Also - I filled up (yes, I filled it up until the auto shutoff clicked at the pump) yesterday.
If my phone app is accurate and I didn't typo something, I got 28mpg on the this last tank.
Does that seem accurate for a 22re on a 5 speed 4x4 with 31" tires? (I have not yet checked that the odometer is accurate)

Thanks to all for the continued information.

jw

gsp4life

28 mpg is so unlikely that I'd guess something's off. Most likely, the odometer reading from full to empty wasn't recorded accurately.

My best on 31's was 24 mpg and it happened during a long, mostly downhill highway with a strong tailwind out in Wyoming. The number was only that high after I corrected for the bigger tires on stock gears.

When I drive gently I get 20-22mpg, and on winter gas down to 17-20 mpg. Off-roading usually more like 14 mpg.

Melrose 4r

Agree 28 sounds somewhat optimistic. With 31"s my truck gets 24 highway and that's considering the compensation for the odometer under-reporting.
Add about 5-10 per hundred miles driven. Agree 2mpg less with winter fuel as GSP says above.

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

as noted, 28 mpg is very optimistic for that setup. 20 to 23 is a more likely/attainable range. and it will be lower in the winter.

jwicker

I probably keyed in the mileage or gallons incorrectly.
We will find out eventually.
:-)