Tam McPartland

My 87 Pickup (22R 2whl drive auto ) starts strong -- usually. Sometimes when I try to start the truck I get a click, or multiple clicks, and no start. Then I try again later I'll get a strong start, and no problem for a while. Today it wouldn't start in AM and I had to cancel an appt. Now in PM it works great. Should I replace the starter? Can I replace only the solenoid as the starter itself works great?

87-4runner

You can probably take the starter off and get it tested... or carry a small hammer with you and when it won't start have someone "tap" on it with the hammer.
there just like an old chevy starter when the brushes get worn... they work intermittently.
sometimes the wiring is an issue as well, rather than the starter. A little Google search will give you lots of options to choose from for that fix.
I put in a John deere starter button with a relay directly to the starter so it gets a good solid 12v everything I hit the button
Serves as an antitheft protection as well.
I'll take a pic of how hidden it is... the "purist" don't like it, but it works for me.
I've done 3 like this and they never fail.
the little black button is my push button start...

swampedout

A lot of start problems are blamed on starters. Ive made this mistake many times. Starters suck a lot of amps while trying to crank a motor. Small things like a loose battery cable or ground can cause a click click no start. Check all your major electrical connections

86SR5PU

My '86 did this for about a year.
Pulled the starter a couple of times, changed the battery wires and clutch switch, still click no start.
Even a new battery did not work.
One day, I turned the key, click.....then while the key was turned I pushed the key assembly into the column and VOOM!
It was the ignition switch behind the key, about $30.
I changed the horn button while I was in there, fixed that too.
Good Luck!

2ToyGuy

Yeah, the starter circuit on these trucks was a terrible design. Instead of the key feeding a relay, which then applies the +12VDC from the battery to the starter, they had the full starter current run all the way to the key switch, then down to the starter.
If the starter and it's solenoid check out OK, chances are it's the key switch, or the wiring between. They key switch can develop corrosion on the contacts that will do this. Sometimes you can clean the contacts off, or just replace the switch, as mentioned above. Worth taking a look at.

Have fun!
Pat☺

Numbchux

Stereotypical worn starter solenoid contacts. The contacts can generally be bought separately and replaced yourself.

Might be worn due to voltage drop to the solenoid, hot shot relay would be a good idea, as well.

I would do both. Actually have similar issues with my Subaru Forester winter beater this week, I plan to do this exact project this weekend.

Blueman

My '87 did this for years. Some days it'd be instant, some days I'd turn the key and have to wait for a five count before the starter would begin turning. Seemed a bit worse when hot, but not 100% correlation.

The end fix was to replace the starter. Multiple turns of the key didn't make a difference as I just needed to hold the key in the start position and be patient.

PS: Back when I did this, I found there were two versions of the starter available: normal, and cold-climate.

crawlpotato

Careful buying a new starter from O'Reilly, I've had two new ones fail. knock side of the starter housing with a metal rod, If you're able to start the truck after that you know the starter bushings are bad.

RAD4Runner

Starter may or may not be defective, but most likely NOT defective.
Cranking circuit is ABSOLUTELY PROVEN to be flawed. Fix that first for $11 in parts and maybe half-hour of work.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post52422426

Jimkola

One loud click was typically the contacts inside the starter. and those are pretty cheap and easy to replace.
A series of clicks usually meant the starter wasn't getting enough juice. Possibly a weak battery, or a poor contact somewhere. Loose battery cable end, ground, etc.

RAD4Runner

@Tam McPartland
Please let us hear, feel, see what you do.
Exactly what clicks and where?
Is the click faint or energetic?
By multiple, you mean as in rapid clicking while you hold ignition in crank position?

If Energetic click, Correct.
Correct again (If ONLY circuit-opening relay clicking behind glove compartment or FAINT solenoid relay click.) All those PLUS loss because of the factory wiring flaw (mentioned above) that can be fixed for $11 on parts.

PATH OF STARTER SOLENOID COIL CURRENT WITHOUT STARTER RELAY ON ALL 22R-E'S WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION:



PATH OF STARTER SOLENOID COIL CURRENT WITH PROPER STARTER RELAY WIRING (OR RETROFITTED WITH STARTER RELAY):



HERE'S HOW TO FIX IT FOR $11 in PARTS