Freewheel

I’d like to install a small amp, a new radio with a pre-amp, and new speakers in my 94 pickup. Was wondering if anyone could recommend a good place for the amp, I think my truck just has two small speakers, and I’m wondering if it’s even worth adding an amp if I only have two speakers. I know there are two channel amps and might go that route. I’ve seen in Crutchfield’s site that an amp should be at least 3 feet from a radio, and away from most wiring, and have 3” of space around it for cooling. Thanks

MaK92-4RnR

Sky is the limit when it comes to whatever stereo you want to put in it. I assume you have a single cab? You can add some 6x9s in boxes for behind the seat and install shallow subwoofers that fit under our seats. If I were you, i'd put a subwoofer under the passenger seat, the amp under the driver seat and add some 6x5 or 6x9s behind the seats and a decent bluetooth head unit. Replace the stock dash speakers with something matching what you put in the back.

Freewheel

Perfect, just what I needed to know. Do you put amps and subs screwed right to the floor? Seems like it might make cleaning a little more tricky but worth it, being so easy to install. (Altho I haven’t taken those seats out yet). It’s a extra cab so plenty of space for adding four speakers. I’m looking at a no- CD Kenwood with pre-amp outlets and Bluetooth.
The speakers I have are in the kick panels, and they’re just 4”. If I go bigger I’d have to drill more holes in the kick panel to let the sound through? Or would it be better to just stay with four inch for all 4 speakers?

MaK92-4RnR

If you have an extended cab, just get a small 10" subwoofer and sit it on the shelf then.

87-4runner

The first thing to spend your hard earned money on is DYNAMAT.
Do the floors, inside the doors and behind the back seat. It's the BEST money you'll spend on your stereo installation.
When you shut the doors on my 87 4runner it sounds like you shut the door on a Bently... inside the cab the stereo is crisp, clean, clear and LOUD!!!
outside the cab you can barely hear it.
You don't need a lot of sub... one 10" will be plenty for your truck.

maxvp01

I was looking at getting some bootleg dynamat for my 89’ xtracab pickup. “killmat” on amazon.

Did you apply it on your roof too? or just everything below the roof? Debating on whether I should go through all the work with the headliner or not..

Peart130

X2 on the sound deadening, amazing stuff!!

You dont have to do the roof, important areas are the doors, floor and rear wall for reducing road noise.

MaK92-4RnR

I'd just buy a roll of FatMat off Amazon and go to down. No point in spending a fortune on Dynamat

87-4runner

Fatmat is a good alternative to dynamat
whichever you use, be sure and follow the installation instructions and know this will be the best thing you can do for your stereo performance.

RAD4Runner

Peel and Seal and spend the rest of the money on trips. When my truck hits bumps/ruts sounds like rubber hitting something, not clanging / banging. as for the ROAR or the 22RE (spoken in the tone of the Dos Equis Man), not much I could do about it, unless I pad engine compartment side of the firewall.

In my my case:
1) I kept after-market head unit (JVC just before bluetooth inputs came out),
2) Replaced torn speakers with pretty good quality, clean-sounding (if a little too bright) Polk Audio DB6501 component system- so lower frequencies come from door mount and highs come from ear-level on A-pillar. (here) . (approx $120) Now both side body cavities (4Runner) where speakers used to be are used as storage.
3) If and when I have time, get thin self-powered sub-woofer that mounts under the seat. (approx $150)

Freewheel

Thanks, which amp did you use? I read on a search that if you want to get the most value from an amp it’s best to get a head unit that has pre-amp capabilities and if it’s got pre amp in it then it’s got pre amp output to the amp. It was a very techie article. I’m not so interested that level of perfection so it’s good to know that a pre- blue tooth head unit can give good enough quality sound. Also, I had not heard of the dynamat stuff and will look into that, altho I’ll probably find something less plastic as I don’t like breathing degraded plastic dust. The old cars came from the factories with natural fiber soundproofing/ insulation

87-4runner

Also, I had not heard of the dynamat stuff and will look into that, altho I’ll probably find something less plastic as I don’t like breathing degraded plastic dust. The old cars came from the factories with natural fiber soundproofing/ insulation[/QUOTE]
👌

maxvp01

Best bang for your buck is definitely a radio with a preamp. Almost all of them come with it standard now though, and will make your speakers sound really good. Way easier to hook up too.

I have a system installed in my lincoln lowrider, I don’t even use the preamp in my radio, I run directly to an external amp (very old school memphis 4 channel amp). If I didn’t have the amp I do now I would just be using the radio preamp.

With my experience on external amplifiers, you really have to pay quite a bit for it to perform better than the preamp in an aftermarket radio. I bought a kicker 4 channel amp from best buy ($160) and it claimed it had more power than my preamp (100W RMS on amp VS 50W RMS on my preamp. ) The amp was just maybe slightly more powerful.. the problem is most of the new stuff made lies about power output because they label the very peak of performance and list it as that.
**this is just based on my experience and my opinion**

Freewheel

Thanks, I did read that about the power ratings being unreliable. But as long as you get the one standard that everybody agrees is the one that should be used then we’re all on the same page and it’s reliable. It’s a three letter acronym but I forgot what it is. I’ll get back here with that. I ordered a Sony amp for $138 that was 45 amps X 4. Which I guess means it delivers 45 amps to each of 4 speakers. And I got 45 amp speakers which I’m pretty sure was “peak” amps but I also read that peak isn’t really peak as far as what it can handle without damage. It’s peak as far as distortion goes. That’s my take on it anyway. I read that a 45A Peak speaker can easily handle 100 or more amps without damage. I believe I read that on Crutchfield’s website, which is a real goldmine of information on sound system design. I ordered from them by phone and just told the guy how much I wanted to spend and he put a package together for me of 4 speakers, amp head and adapter harness. But after seeing what you said about amps i will try the head set out without the amp first just to see what the difference is if any.

87-4runner

Stereo systems are all about balance... head unit, amp, speakers, etc need to compliment each other. More isn't better... and sound deadening is a crucial part of the end result.