IFS is not weak, the 7.5 diff is....
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IFS is not weak, the 7.5 diff is....
I blew the ring and pinion on my front IFS diff on the Toyota today. Load it up and pop 'n grind! Had to get winched out of the spot. Then as I was moving forward, CRUNCH. Lost the center cap, stripped off all the wheel weights, chipped off bits of aluminum off of the wheels. Good times.
35's had nothing to do with it either
Now I need to start the SAS, which I have been prolonging for some time now.
And can't forget the poser shot
35's had nothing to do with it either
Now I need to start the SAS, which I have been prolonging for some time now.
And can't forget the poser shot
#2
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Originally Posted by Toyofast
I blew the ring and pinion on my front IFS diff on the Toyota today. Load it up and pop 'n grind! Had to get winched out of the spot. Then as I was moving forward, CRUNCH. Lost the center cap, stripped off all the wheel weights, chipped off bits of aluminum off of the wheels. Good times.
35's had nothing to do with it either
Now I need to start the SAS, which I have been prolonging for some time now.
35's had nothing to do with it either
Now I need to start the SAS, which I have been prolonging for some time now.
(This would be why I put manual hubs on)
I would argue that the 35's had a fair deal to do with it, but I am surprised you don't break a CV first.
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You could have removed your CVs to allow your wheels to turn. As long as his CV angles are not too extreme, the front diff becomes the weakest point in the front drivetrain under heavy torque.
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I was thinking the same thing with the conditions and 35s on that truck. I have seen you put that truck threw some times and I'm surprised you haven't broke something long before now. Can't wait to see you wheel when you have a SFA!
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Originally Posted by tc
So the winching damaged the wheels because they wouldn't turn?
(This would be why I put manual hubs on)
I would argue that the 35's had a fair deal to do with it, but I am surprised you don't break a CV first.
(This would be why I put manual hubs on)
I would argue that the 35's had a fair deal to do with it, but I am surprised you don't break a CV first.
Originally Posted by Tanto
You could have removed your CVs to allow your wheels to turn. As long as his CV angles are not too extreme, the front diff becomes the weakest point in the front drivetrain under heavy torque.
What? Once in 2wd the front wheels turn. I just couldn't stay in 4wd other wise the front ring and pinion would keep grinding away. Once out of the rocks I had no issues...
The truck has 311K miles and this is the second thing I have broke, other than a cam. The cam was just a fluke IMO.
I also noticed that my relay rod hits the oil pan too... see image and look right above dirt spot on relay rod:
It's all about having fun
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Originally Posted by mt_goat
Was that the stock ring and pinion or an aftermarket gear?
It's just the stock 4.56 gears. No locker or LS, just open stock diff too. I did have it bound up pretty good and had the rpms up a bit, then unloaded the clutch. It moved forward about 2 feet then BANG..GRIND!
This is just a lesson on when not to follow a tubed out Toyota buggy that is locked up, 36" Iroks, 4-linked, bagged, etc.. I kept up with him for the most part
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Originally Posted by Napoleon047
your center link (what you call the relay rod) hitting the oil pan is most likely due to the idler arm being shot
I had one of my techs go over everything when he did the relay rod replacement a while back. All in great or new shape. If you crawl under any IFS Toyota('86-'95) and grab ahold of the relay rod, you can rotate it by hand. It's due to the joints at the pitman arm and idler arm.
I think the V6 oil pan sits a bit lower and romping the truck around caused it to make contact, theres no noticable dent, just a scuff mark where it looks to have touched at least a couple times.
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I wonder how much more apt 35's are to cause breakage than a HEAVY bias-ply 33, My 35 BFG's are the same weight at my 33's were and roll much easier, like I went to a 32, not 35..
Are those 35x10.50's SSR's?
Are those 35x10.50's SSR's?
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I have always liked the sound of a 35x10.50, I would have bought them but I got a screaming deal on my 35's. Maybe my next set.. I would run them for winter but my chains wouldnt fit them, and might me too much even with a 4".
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Originally Posted by Flygtenstein
Lots of wheel speed and sudden grab?
Those tires hit no where at any time with a swaybar on?
Lockers?
Those tires hit no where at any time with a swaybar on?
Lockers?
Near zero wheel speed, just a lot of traction and it couldn't hold any more.
The tires only hit at full lock but it's a slight rub at the frame. Very minor rubbing at pinch welds, most have been pounded away but nothing to worry about.
No lockers in this Toyota. My other rigs had lockers F/R, but I like the challange of being open front and rear. I can keep up with locked up rigs pretty well. Size, weight and driver skill help out. I think wheeling for the last 13 years have helped. Once the SAS takes place lockers will go in, along with a change in gears. 4.56's just don't cut it.
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What gears are you changing to? BTW, I think I saw you driving around a few weeks ago. My gut tells me your set-up can not work well, but I do not have experience with your set-up so I am glad it does! I saw a 3rd gen truck in Beaverton today running 35"s with no lift. I would like to check out yours some time.
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Originally Posted by Bobakazi
What gears are you changing to? BTW, I think I saw you driving around a few weeks ago. My gut tells me your set-up can not work well, but I do not have experience with your set-up so I am glad it does! I saw a 3rd gen truck in Beaverton today running 35"s with no lift. I would like to check out yours some time.
I have a buddy wanting to sell me his Toyota front end, 30 spline longs, high steer, 5.29's, locked, etc.. I have to wait to see what he wants for it.
Which setup? The gearing or fitting the 35's with no lift? I still average about 20 mpg durring the work week. When out wheelin' the other day when these pictures were taken I had well over 100 miles with 3/4 of a tank still left. Not to shabby for a truck with 311K miles.
I was in Beaverton Friday night, Canyon/217 area but then headed back to Troutdale asap... freakin' Beaverton traffic sucks
If your in Troutdale, feel free to PM me ahead of time, I'll let you check it out.
#17
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Originally Posted by Toyofast
I have a buddy wanting to sell me his Toyota front end, 30 spline longs, high steer, 5.29's, locked, etc.. I have to wait to see what he wants for it.
Which setup? The gearing or fitting the 35's with no lift? I still average about 20 mpg durring the work week. When out wheelin' the other day when these pictures were taken I had well over 100 miles with 3/4 of a tank still left. Not to shabby for a truck with 311K miles.
I was in Beaverton Friday night, Canyon/217 area but then headed back to Troutdale asap... freakin' Beaverton traffic sucks
If your in Troutdale, feel free to PM me ahead of time, I'll let you check it out.
Which setup? The gearing or fitting the 35's with no lift? I still average about 20 mpg durring the work week. When out wheelin' the other day when these pictures were taken I had well over 100 miles with 3/4 of a tank still left. Not to shabby for a truck with 311K miles.
I was in Beaverton Friday night, Canyon/217 area but then headed back to Troutdale asap... freakin' Beaverton traffic sucks
If your in Troutdale, feel free to PM me ahead of time, I'll let you check it out.
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Originally Posted by BAZ
Damn, I dont see how its possible to get 20 MPG on your setup. I know there's a little less rolling resistance with the 10.5's but 20MPG is what I average on my 22R-E with 30's. How the hell did you pull that off?
Why don't you see it? I have 4.56 gears, I drive nice, except when I have to push the truck and then the rev limiter kicks in. I drive about 200-250 miles per week, sometimes more. I used to get much better mileage with the 33's but the extra weight of the 35's tend to hurt my mpg. Best I have gotten with the 35's is 23 mpg.
#20
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Originally Posted by Toyofast
Why don't you see it? I have 4.56 gears, I drive nice, except when I have to push the truck and then the rev limiter kicks in. I drive about 200-250 miles per week, sometimes more. I used to get much better mileage with the 33's but the extra weight of the 35's tend to hurt my mpg. Best I have gotten with the 35's is 23 mpg.
I'm not calling you a liar, it just doesnt make much sense to me. Have you taken into consideration how much your odometer is off with the 35's?