i wanna hear some motor oil arguments
#101
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I usually run 10-40w Castrol GTX in my 22RE, but I can't find down here in Mexico City. Everything they run is straight 40w. Anyone ever run this in their 22re? I need an oil change bad, and I am hesitant to change up the oil.
#104
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i'll use any hi mileage semi synth, 20w50 in the hot hot summer, 10w40 all year otherwise. if its super cold for a month in the winter, and i hear too much valve chatter in the a.m., i'll go with 10w30 when i next add a little.
i have a leak at the rear main, i try to use the hi-mi for the gasket swelling additives to deter other leaks. i usually go with the valvoline, but i'll castrol or penzoil if they're all that's avail, or on sale.
i change every 4-5000mi. but it has a self-refreshing feature of 1/2 qt. per month with that main seal leak.
i
i have a leak at the rear main, i try to use the hi-mi for the gasket swelling additives to deter other leaks. i usually go with the valvoline, but i'll castrol or penzoil if they're all that's avail, or on sale.
i change every 4-5000mi. but it has a self-refreshing feature of 1/2 qt. per month with that main seal leak.
i
#105
Registered User
i guess if there's no winter a single weight will be ok, but i'd want that thinner viscosity available at startup.
but fresh oil is better than dirty oil. don't wait too long! can you buy a case online and ship it in?
#106
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I am in love with AMSOIL 10W-30. In the past I tried mobile 1 and I burnt/ leaked a lot. It got dirty fast and I had a lifter tick while I used it. So, I wasn't impressed with Mobile 1. Other than AMSOIL, I liked Castol Syntec better out of the "store brands". Next oil change (15,000 miles from now) I think I will try AMSOIL signature series 0W-30.
#107
ok, coming from over 30 years in the business (my dads opinion, motor oil salesmen since mid/late 70s)
Mobil 1 all the way, viscosity is dependent on model and age, but ALWAYS Mobil 1. Period.
However, if its a used car which didnt use Mobil 1, then stick to conventional oil, synthetic is too good at its job and will clean out gunk and grime thats clogging up hole in oil pan and such causing an oil leak
Mobil 1 all the way, viscosity is dependent on model and age, but ALWAYS Mobil 1. Period.
However, if its a used car which didnt use Mobil 1, then stick to conventional oil, synthetic is too good at its job and will clean out gunk and grime thats clogging up hole in oil pan and such causing an oil leak
Last edited by greatskiiiier; 11-20-2009 at 01:46 PM.
#109
Registered User
I believe thats a myth of sorts, the leaking after syn fill. And I think still an 5/30 is to heavy for start ups, (5) < the 30/40/50 or whatever is when its warm. And once to op temp, lets say 212, most all oils become a 30, within reason mind you. Like I said I am going to a syn blend , i'll see how it goes, and I do have a bit of a leak out the front main.
#111
I believe thats a myth of sorts, the leaking after syn fill. And I think still an 5/30 is to heavy for start ups, (5) < the 30/40/50 or whatever is when its warm. And once to op temp, lets say 212, most all oils become a 30, within reason mind you. Like I said I am going to a syn blend , i'll see how it goes, and I do have a bit of a leak out the front main.
and as for not being an expert- no hes not, but he knows who the experts are, talks to them, and learns, then makes arguments based on what they say.. and race cars are using 0-weight Mobil 1 mind you
As stated, im not an expert, my fathers not an expert, but this is what ive been told BY the experts (even diff brand reps agree on some things)
#112
Registered User
Sure oil pressure is high, if you are pushing peanut butter, and its hardly moving. Lower oil pressure with say 5/30 is low because its flowing, FLOW= lubrication and cooling.
PS: check out (sorry no link) ferrarichat / Dr. Ali E. Haas
PS: check out (sorry no link) ferrarichat / Dr. Ali E. Haas
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