i need your opinions!!!!! 88 runner lift
#1
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i need your opinions!!!!! 88 runner lift
hey everybody i just put my 31's on today
and i painted my wipers : )
okay so i really wanted to get a three inch lift and i found one for around 70 bucks and i just wanted to know how involved it is by doing it myself.. and how i can go about lifting up the body?
the only problem is that the spots where the blocks would go are really rusted and i don't know if i can get the screws loose
thanks guys !! your replys would be appreciated
and i painted my wipers : )
okay so i really wanted to get a three inch lift and i found one for around 70 bucks and i just wanted to know how involved it is by doing it myself.. and how i can go about lifting up the body?
the only problem is that the spots where the blocks would go are really rusted and i don't know if i can get the screws loose
thanks guys !! your replys would be appreciated
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If you are going to install a 3" body lift do yourself a few favors.
1. Get new body mount bushings, looks like yours are toast
2. get a good penetrent lube like liquid wrench or pb blaster
3. soak all bolts at least 2-3 times over the course of a week
4. make sure you can get somone to help you out
5. expect to not have the use of your truck for around 1-2 days
6. an impact gun is a HUGE time saver
1. Get new body mount bushings, looks like yours are toast
2. get a good penetrent lube like liquid wrench or pb blaster
3. soak all bolts at least 2-3 times over the course of a week
4. make sure you can get somone to help you out
5. expect to not have the use of your truck for around 1-2 days
6. an impact gun is a HUGE time saver
#6
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Oh! Well, in that case...search "saggy rearend". There's lots of solutions....and even more opinions...for that.
I like this one:
http://www.gearinstalls.com/dc.htm
Cheap and effective.
And btw, kudo's on the tire change.
I like this one:
http://www.gearinstalls.com/dc.htm
Cheap and effective.
And btw, kudo's on the tire change.
Last edited by thook; 09-09-2007 at 03:48 PM.
#7
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A body lift won't help rear sag.
You need new rear leafs!
You could also temporarily fix the problem with longer shackles and/or a helper spring or add-a-leaf.
Please don't body lift it
You need new rear leafs!
You could also temporarily fix the problem with longer shackles and/or a helper spring or add-a-leaf.
Please don't body lift it
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#8
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picture of the rusty bolts
yeah, those look pretty shot. be extremely careful removing them. if they survive being taken out, spray paint them silver and sell them in san diego, close to the border to TJ. haha.
yeah, those look pretty shot. be extremely careful removing them. if they survive being taken out, spray paint them silver and sell them in san diego, close to the border to TJ. haha.
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thanks guys! i dont think im going to lift it becuase of your advice..im gonna check out that link
now i just have to get my rear brake line replaced!
now i just have to get my rear brake line replaced!
#11
Add-a-leaf cheap. Lift rear good, last long time. Plus, give ~500lbs extra load carrying ability to your stock springs. Stiff ride unloaded.
Rear leafs(replacement 3-4 leaf spring pack), expensive. Won't give you added weight carrying capacity. Not likely to last as long because most are the same rate as stock. They would ride approx. like stock springs, softer than add-a-leafs considerably.
Rear leafs(replacement 3-4 leaf spring pack), expensive. Won't give you added weight carrying capacity. Not likely to last as long because most are the same rate as stock. They would ride approx. like stock springs, softer than add-a-leafs considerably.
Last edited by MudHippy; 09-09-2007 at 06:50 PM.
#13
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Add-a-leaf cheap. Lift rear good, last long time. Plus, give ~500lbs extra load carrying ability to your stock springs. Stiff ride unloaded.
Rear leafs(replacement 3-4 leaf spring pack), expensive. Won't give you added weight carrying capacity. Not likely to last as long because most are the same rate as stock. They would ride approx. like stock springs, softer than add-a-leafs considerably.
Rear leafs(replacement 3-4 leaf spring pack), expensive. Won't give you added weight carrying capacity. Not likely to last as long because most are the same rate as stock. They would ride approx. like stock springs, softer than add-a-leafs considerably.
Spring rate has no bearing on spring life, all other things equal.
Fred
#14
Interesting theory.
Stiffer springs are thicker, coils/leafs/torsion bars. Thusly can endure more punishment buy design than thinner springs under identical conditions. Pretty sure on that. If not clear me up.
Stiffer springs are thicker, coils/leafs/torsion bars. Thusly can endure more punishment buy design than thinner springs under identical conditions. Pretty sure on that. If not clear me up.
#15
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Higher spring rates (coils/leafs/bars whatever) are harder to flex (which is why a softer spring rate is better for off road use, softer and harder spring rates being relative terms).
Since the higher spring rate (in this case the rears) are harder to flex, the chances are that they're less likely to get flexed beyond their limits when the elasticity of the spring fails.
That's the biggest cause of "sag", spring failure caused by either over compressing or over stretching the spring.
Can we say "adjust your bumpstops correctly"
Fred
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Oh! Well, in that case...search "saggy rearend". There's lots of solutions....and even more opinions...for that.
I like this one:
http://www.gearinstalls.com/dc.htm
Cheap and effective.
And btw, kudo's on the tire change.
I like this one:
http://www.gearinstalls.com/dc.htm
Cheap and effective.
And btw, kudo's on the tire change.
looking back I wish I had not been so cheap and had got either new leafs or a add a leaf instead or had done the Chevy leaf swap.
#18
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get like 2 inch larger rear shackles if you wanna go cheap, that will also improve your flex a bit. every inch larger your shackles are you get a half inch of lift. my 31's i put on yesterday fit fine stock but if you wanna level out the rear i think shackles are a good way to go for cheap. otherwise like an add-a-leaf or some lift blocks. hey your truck says yota on the front just like mine!
Last edited by algranger; 09-10-2007 at 07:52 PM.
#19
"Punishment" has no real bearing on spring life either, as long as the springs stay within their working range.
Higher spring rates (coils/leafs/bars whatever) are harder to flex (which is why a softer spring rate is better for off road use, softer and harder spring rates being relative terms).
Since the higher spring rate (in this case the rears) are harder to flex, the chances are that they're less likely to get flexed beyond their limits when the elasticity of the spring fails.
That's the biggest cause of "sag", spring failure caused by either over compressing or over stretching the spring.
Can we say "adjust your bumpstops correctly"
Fred
Higher spring rates (coils/leafs/bars whatever) are harder to flex (which is why a softer spring rate is better for off road use, softer and harder spring rates being relative terms).
Since the higher spring rate (in this case the rears) are harder to flex, the chances are that they're less likely to get flexed beyond their limits when the elasticity of the spring fails.
That's the biggest cause of "sag", spring failure caused by either over compressing or over stretching the spring.
Can we say "adjust your bumpstops correctly"
Fred
Then it reads,
Stiffer springs are thicker, coils/leafs/torsion bars. Thusly can resist flexing beyond their limits better buy design than thinner springs under identical conditions. Pretty sure on that. If not clear me up.
By "stiffer" I mean higher load rate and/or spring rate. Or, in layman's terms, "less easier flexed".
Last edited by MudHippy; 09-09-2007 at 09:38 PM.
#20
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You'll find some people on this forum who like body lifts, you'll find some people who are indifferent, and you'll find some 100% anti-body-lift people. I happen to be the latter, I think they look absolutely tacky and hate seeing a perfectly good Toyota get a body lift installed.