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I need some help figuring out a timing issue with my 1986 Toyota 22r pickup.

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Old 10-21-2020, 05:47 AM
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I need some help figuring out a timing issue with my 1986 Toyota 22r pickup.

I took my distributor out the other day to turn it back a tooth because I thought it would help my engine run better; however, because I didn’t actually know what I was doing, I didn’t make any markings and I accidentally turned it way too much. My engine wouldn’t even start... it would just backfire. And once I finally gave up and called a mechanic friend, he told me that I needed to find top dead center and position the distributor so that the rotor faces the #1 spark plug wire. I did all of this and now my truck will only start up when the vacuum advance is attached, and it won’t idle below 2k rpm. I hooked up a timing light and set my idle speed to 2500 rpm to see if my vacuum advance made it go to 12* BTDC, and it did. So I figured my timing was correct since it didn’t go any more/less than 12* BTDC. I tried retarding and advancing the timing to see if that would help, but it still won’t idle below 2000 rpm even when the engine is completely warmed up. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Old 10-21-2020, 08:37 AM
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Is the bolt that adjusts the distributer fairly well centered in the slot, or is it close to the limit at either end?
I'm assuming everything was ok before the distributor was removed.
Old 10-21-2020, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Jimkola
Is the bolt that adjusts the distributer fairly well centered in the slot, or is it close to the limit at either end?
I'm assuming everything was ok before the distributor was removed.
yeah the bolt is pretty centered at the moment. I unhooked the vacuum advance and retarded/ advanced the timing until it was able to start, but it still won’t idle though.
Old 10-21-2020, 01:38 PM
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im sure you did this, but make sure your crank pulley mark is on the 0 degree mark when you drop your dizzy in. point it at #1 post on cap and set timing from there. as for the 2500k and up idle thing, if its a carb motor make sure the fuse that controls the fuel cut off isnt blown, mine did the same thing until i replaced that fuse. i think its the 7.5 amp one labeled IGN behind the kick panel.
Old 10-21-2020, 02:05 PM
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Be sure the No.1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke.
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Old 10-21-2020, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Forrest1313
im sure you did this, but make sure your crank pulley mark is on the 0 degree mark when you drop your dizzy in. point it at #1 post on cap and set timing from there. as for the 2500k and up idle thing, if its a carb motor make sure the fuse that controls the fuel cut off isnt blown, mine did the same thing until i replaced that fuse. i think its the 7.5 amp one labeled IGN behind the kick panel.
Yeah, I did all the proper procedures, which is the annoying thing because I feel like I’m missing something that I’m not aware of. I’ve followed multiple repair manuals, forums, and videos on how to do this and it just won’t work. I’m pretty much at my wits end at this point.

And as for the fuse; I checked and they were all fine.
Old 10-21-2020, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Forrest1313
im sure you did this, but make sure your crank pulley mark is on the 0 degree mark when you drop your dizzy in. point it at #1 post on cap and set timing from there.
Run Forrest Run! with your timing instructions you have a 50/50 shot at getting an engine running.

Originally Posted by Ethan Gilford
Yeah, I did all the proper procedures, which is the annoying thing because I feel like I’m missing something that I’m not aware of. I’ve followed multiple repair manuals, forums, and videos on how to do this and it just won’t work. I’m pretty much at my wits end at this point. And as for the fuse; I checked and they were all fine.
let's back up a little, with a 4 stroke engine your crank shaft will turn two full revolutions for each one revolution of the distributor. the #1 piston will be at top dead center twice. you have to have it at top dead center on the COMPRESSION stroke just to get the timing close enough to start the engine. Then you need to set the timing with a timing light an using the method specified in the owners manual or listed on the underhood sticker (if that's still there) in order to disable the vacuum advance, if it says disconnect the hose you also need to plug it so you don't have a huge vacuum leak, then set the idle speed and then adjust the base timing. that will effect the idle speed so you'll have to adjust it again and recheck the timing. Once you have fiddled with all of the adjustments and thrown everything out of whack it can be frustrating to get it dialed back in.
Good luck!
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Old 10-21-2020, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by akwheeler
let's back up a little, with a 4 stroke engine your crank shaft will turn two full revolutions for each one revolution of the distributor. the #1 piston will be at top dead center twice. you have to have it at top dead center on the COMPRESSION stroke just to get the timing close enough to start the engine. Then you need to set the timing with a timing light an using the method specified in the owners manual or listed on the underhood sticker (if that's still there) in order to disable the vacuum advance, if it says disconnect the hose you also need to plug it so you don't have a huge vacuum leak, then set the idle speed and then adjust the base timing. that will effect the idle speed so you'll have to adjust it again and recheck the timing. Once you have fiddled with all of the adjustments and thrown everything out of whack it can be frustrating to get it dialed back in.
Good luck!
the difficult part for me is checking the timing with a light. Because it won’t idle without giving it some pedal, I can’t check the timing. I’ve tried advancing/retarding the timing, but it won’t really do anything more than start up really well, idle for a few seconds then slowly go down in rpms until it dies.
Old 10-22-2020, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Ethan Gilford
the difficult part for me is checking the timing with a light. Because it won’t idle without giving it some pedal, I can’t check the timing. I’ve tried advancing/retarding the timing, but it won’t really do anything more than start up really well, idle for a few seconds then slowly go down in rpms until it dies.
Make sure you don't have a vacuum leak, if you messed with the idle you may need to step it up until it stays running.
being a 22r instead of an re you will need to get it running long enough to warm up before you can properly adjust everything. Does it have the stock carburetor or aftermarket?
You should be able to tap the gas to get it on high idle, start the engine and let it warm up. then if you tap the gas again it will idle down.
If all the adjustments on the carb have been fiddled with all bets are off.
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Old 10-22-2020, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by akwheeler
Make sure you don't have a vacuum leak, if you messed with the idle you may need to step it up until it stays running.
being a 22r instead of an re you will need to get it running long enough to warm up before you can properly adjust everything. Does it have the stock carburetor or aftermarket?
You should be able to tap the gas to get it on high idle, start the engine and let it warm up. then if you tap the gas again it will idle down.
If all the adjustments on the carb have been fiddled with all bets are off.
I got it running by stepping the idle up, but when it got warm, it still wouldn’t idle at lower rpms. I adjusted the distributor, but it didn’t really help; although I will say that it seems to run better the more I advance it. However, when I try to advance it even further by moving it back a tooth on the distributor, it barely starts and runs like it’s begging for me to take it out of its misery.

it is the stock carb btw.
Old 10-22-2020, 12:37 PM
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Can you please confirm that the No. 1 cylinder was at TDC on the compression stroke before you reinstalled the dizzy?
Old 10-22-2020, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Z.
Can you please confirm that the No. 1 cylinder was at TDC on the compression stroke before you reinstalled the dizzy?
Yeah it was, although it took me a while before I actually realized that I was 180 degrees off at one point... I have since corrected it though.
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