I need help with my 84 Yota that has a 92 22R-E engine.
03-01-2011, 01:13 PM
#26
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
look who is talking.....hahahahaha
hehehe
no.
hey....welcome to YOTATECH
I'm not much of a mechanic but I did rebuild with the help of this place and am currently rebuilding my son's 4runner (he's 15). so I may not have an answers for ya, but these guys will.
hehehe
no.
hey....welcome to YOTATECH
I'm not much of a mechanic but I did rebuild with the help of this place and am currently rebuilding my son's 4runner (he's 15). so I may not have an answers for ya, but these guys will.
03-01-2011, 01:44 PM
#29
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
03-01-2011, 03:19 PM
#31
Dean, I really hope it's something simple, ....just that, well, some times, .....you have to take the 400 Mile road to finally figure out that simple thing that's proverbially across the street! hahaha.
Nah, you'll get it, with a lil direction, etc. Just be sure to organize a list and write down all you're doing/results, etc., so we don't have to backtrack on too many things, ya know?
Looks like a SWEET toy, Dean! "it's got potential!" hehe.
Something that just popped in my head, Dean, .... it's usually pretty close, since it's come out of another rig, ...but check the stop distance for the throttle stop-screw/ door/gate. As you look into the TPS, you'll see it's crucial to get that distance on that stop screw just right, B4 starting to do your adjustments. What it DOES, actually, is keep the door/flap in the throttle body from ever FULLY closing, ....which can cause too low an idle and even stalling. The test/adjustment procedure for the throttle plate stop screw is on a site that you'll probably become very familiar with, ....a member here started it, called ( 4crawler.com )
The page, I believe, is here..........
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
Nah, you'll get it, with a lil direction, etc. Just be sure to organize a list and write down all you're doing/results, etc., so we don't have to backtrack on too many things, ya know?
Looks like a SWEET toy, Dean! "it's got potential!" hehe.
Something that just popped in my head, Dean, .... it's usually pretty close, since it's come out of another rig, ...but check the stop distance for the throttle stop-screw/ door/gate. As you look into the TPS, you'll see it's crucial to get that distance on that stop screw just right, B4 starting to do your adjustments. What it DOES, actually, is keep the door/flap in the throttle body from ever FULLY closing, ....which can cause too low an idle and even stalling. The test/adjustment procedure for the throttle plate stop screw is on a site that you'll probably become very familiar with, ....a member here started it, called ( 4crawler.com )
The page, I believe, is here..........
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 03-01-2011 at 03:20 PM.
03-05-2011, 02:03 PM
#36
Dean, why, out of curiosity are you 'changing the TPS and FPR'??? Not second guessing ya, ...just want to keep you from throwing parts at it, ....UNLESS, of course, you have unlimited access to a Donor rig and it's parts? hahhaa.
FPR CAN go bad, ....but I don't think it's very common, and without doing a fairly unique fuel pressure test, it's hard to tell if it's bad.(Yes, there is the removing of the vacuum hose from the VSV, etc., ....but that is not really TRULY conclusive. (if fuel is in the vacuum line ABOVE the FPR, ...tha'ts pretty conclusive, lol).
Also, the TPS can be PRETTY tricky... so sometimes, if the guy just hadn't adjusted it properly, it might just need that 4crawler.com set of adjustments/settings done to it, ya know?
Let us know what/why you're doing it, k?
FPR CAN go bad, ....but I don't think it's very common, and without doing a fairly unique fuel pressure test, it's hard to tell if it's bad.(Yes, there is the removing of the vacuum hose from the VSV, etc., ....but that is not really TRULY conclusive. (if fuel is in the vacuum line ABOVE the FPR, ...tha'ts pretty conclusive, lol).
Also, the TPS can be PRETTY tricky... so sometimes, if the guy just hadn't adjusted it properly, it might just need that 4crawler.com set of adjustments/settings done to it, ya know?
Let us know what/why you're doing it, k?
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 03-05-2011 at 02:04 PM.
03-05-2011, 05:03 PM
#37
Registered User
Thread Starter
I think I have narrowed it down to a fuel problem and those two things are the only fuel related items I have not changed. My dad also has a few Toyotas like 5 I think and he said that his was doing the same thing mine is and he changed both of those and it ran fine. So I will change this and if it doesnt work I will have to take it to a Mechanic cause this truck has to be running I have no transportation right now. Just trying everything you know.
Last edited by TheDeanofMean85; 03-05-2011 at 05:08 PM.
03-06-2011, 04:08 PM
#38
Yeah, I just meant that, if you test everything from the ECU with a multi-meter, as well as testing the items, first, at their connectors... you should be able to narrow it down. Also, you could replace those and still have a short somewhere in the harness, ....and then you'd have spent money, POSSIBLY, that you hadn't needed to...... But YES, nothing wrong with a mechanic taking a peek, especially if you're in a rush! 
Best wishes, Dean,
Mark
Best wishes, Dean,
Mark
03-06-2011, 04:13 PM
#39
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Nashville TN. I can help you if you're close BUT NOBODY CAN HELP YOU IF YOU DON'T FILL YOUR LOCATION IN!
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oh my...
84 = NOT factory EFI... OR someone put an EFI cab on it and poped off the VIN plates. BTDT.
OR... Someone swapped in the EFI which means you have to find their goof and fix it. It could be anywhere.
Good luck.
84 = NOT factory EFI... OR someone put an EFI cab on it and poped off the VIN plates. BTDT.
OR... Someone swapped in the EFI which means you have to find their goof and fix it. It could be anywhere.
Good luck.
Last edited by tried4x2signN; 03-06-2011 at 04:14 PM.
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