Hunting Idle After Some Work
#1
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From: Fairfield County Connecticut
Hunting Idle After Some Work
Not sure if I should have posted this in my other thread about the cam chain replacement...
I just finished replacing the cam chain guides, coolant flush and set the timing with the Te1 and E1 jumped. Started it up with the jumper in place and it idled normally, shut the truck off, removed the jumper and fired it back up and it's hunting/fluctuating (see video). No check engine light, oil pressure is good. Coolant level seems good but I'm in the middle of a flush, only distilled water is in it right now.
Thoughts?
I just finished replacing the cam chain guides, coolant flush and set the timing with the Te1 and E1 jumped. Started it up with the jumper in place and it idled normally, shut the truck off, removed the jumper and fired it back up and it's hunting/fluctuating (see video). No check engine light, oil pressure is good. Coolant level seems good but I'm in the middle of a flush, only distilled water is in it right now.
Thoughts?
#2
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From: Fairfield County Connecticut
Ok, I turned it back on and it's stopped doing it, then did it again and then stopped. The idle seemed to be slightly varying and some low noises were coming from the airbox, then abruptly stopped. And NOW the hood won't come back up (I closed it to move the truck). I'm pulling the latch but it's not popping up, haha. This is hilarious.
#4
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From: Fairfield County Connecticut
Is this oil pressure normal for this RPM? This is where it's idling. If I rev it up the oil pressure rises. Oil on dipstick is showing just past the full mark.
Last edited by Davebarbier; 10-27-2015 at 02:11 PM.
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#8
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From: Fairfield County Connecticut
Originally Posted by kcaudill
My idle did the same after a flush. A glob of rtv got stuck in the IAC valve. That what caused mine to jump.
Thanks
#10
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From: Fairfield County Connecticut
Finally able to do more work/diagnosing. When the truck is first started it runs fine, as it warms up a bit it starts surging then after it completely warms up it seems to stop. There's really good heat in the cabin. Engine temp and oil pressure is normal.
I removed the IAC hoses and they're clean and clear. I didn't completely remove the IAC. Is that a problem? I don't have a manual right now and I can't really see what bolts to remove to take it off. Am I stupid for not removing it?
I removed the IAC hoses and they're clean and clear. I didn't completely remove the IAC. Is that a problem? I don't have a manual right now and I can't really see what bolts to remove to take it off. Am I stupid for not removing it?
#11
I suspect you've got bubbles/air in your coolant system. I just did this yesterday and I rushed my coolant into the truck cause it was getting dark. When I started it up it ran fine til the temp got to normal range, then rpm did EXACTLY what yours is doing.
Take your rad cap off after truck has sat and cooled off.
Top up the rad.
Start the truck and run it for ~15 mins
Top off rad again if needed
Put rad cap on
Fill up resevoir
You should be good at this point. Just keep an eye on reservoir level
Take your rad cap off after truck has sat and cooled off.
Top up the rad.
Start the truck and run it for ~15 mins
Top off rad again if needed
Put rad cap on
Fill up resevoir
You should be good at this point. Just keep an eye on reservoir level
#12
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From: Fairfield County Connecticut
Thanks Lzryde. I'll see how it goes this morning. That sounds like something that it could be. I did feel that it wasn't fully bled. Any other methods? I'm filling it up through the radiator while the thermostat housing is off and waiting until I see it come up. Then popping the TS and housing back on and filling it the rest of the way. Running the engine and just topping it off as it lowers. I wish there were like actual bleeder valves at the high points like on calipers.
#13
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From: Fairfield County Connecticut
Originally Posted by Lzryde
I suspect you've got bubbles/air in your coolant system. I just did this yesterday and I rushed my coolant into the truck cause it was getting dark. When I started it up it ran fine til the temp got to normal range, then rpm did EXACTLY what yours is doing.
Take your rad cap off after truck has sat and cooled off.
Top up the rad.
Start the truck and run it for ~15 mins
Top off rad again if needed
Put rad cap on
Fill up resevoir
You should be good at this point. Just keep an eye on reservoir level
Take your rad cap off after truck has sat and cooled off.
Top up the rad.
Start the truck and run it for ~15 mins
Top off rad again if needed
Put rad cap on
Fill up resevoir
You should be good at this point. Just keep an eye on reservoir level
#14
^ Make sure the heaters heat selector is in the full hot position with the blower off. Look at the valve on the firewall and make sure it is wide open. It's easy to adjust and sometimes the adjustment is slightly off.
The combination of jacking the front wheels way up in the air and the use of a Lisle No Spill Funnel does wonders. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...bottle-291588/
.
Last edited by Odin; 11-01-2015 at 10:22 AM.
#15
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From: Fairfield County Connecticut
Originally Posted by Odin
Nothing new- Look at post #4 in this thread https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...oblems-288594/
^ Make sure the heaters heat selector is in the full hot position with the blower off. Look at the valve on the firewall and make sure it is wide open. It's easy to adjust and sometimes the adjustment is slightly off.
The combination of jacking the front wheels way up in the air and the use of a Lisle No Spill Funnel does wonders. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...bottle-291588/
.
^ Make sure the heaters heat selector is in the full hot position with the blower off. Look at the valve on the firewall and make sure it is wide open. It's easy to adjust and sometimes the adjustment is slightly off.
The combination of jacking the front wheels way up in the air and the use of a Lisle No Spill Funnel does wonders. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...bottle-291588/
.
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